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Old 05-15-2011, 11:51 AM   #171
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Update everyone:

I picked up a duel t5HO light fixture, glass top and tank stand.

I tried to upload pics but the app on my iPhone wouldn't let me :/
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Old 05-15-2011, 12:22 PM   #172
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I would not use a glass top for a reef tank. It prevents CO2 gas exchange with the water surface.
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Old 05-15-2011, 01:06 PM   #173
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thincat
I would not use a glass top for a reef tank. It prevents CO2 gas exchange with the water surface.
Could I leave the back 2" plastic strip off? I understand the concept of what your saying but I think there is a point at which the gas exchange will be enough with out the top vs with half a top. I have two powerheads on the surface so my water agitation is high I would say.

And I'm not going crazy reef, just some mushrooms, polyp and maybe an anemone.


--

You guys may or may not agree with the decision I made a few weeks ago, I added my first fish to the tank. An adult clown.

A co-worker had him in his 8 year old fish only 175 gal tank and he wanted to go aggressive and was afraid he would not do well so I took the fish off his hands.

I got water samples from 3 lfs in my area that deal with saltwater, I tested there water with my kit and what do you know... The readings where the same expect for nitrate, mine was a little higher (5-10). My next test kit will be API for sure because I dont think my redsea is accurate.

The fish looks very happy and swims in this nice section of current . I have been doing pwc weekly to keep nitrate down.

I changed the carbon in my csnister for the first time since I got it :/ and I plan on getting SearchEm de-nitrate this week.

Since I put the sand in when I moved my tank the full flow of the 305 Fluval was moving the sand too much, the flow is low now and I will keep it that was so the de-nitrate will work as it should around 50gph.
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Old 05-16-2011, 09:47 AM   #174
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De-nitrate does need a very slow flow to work. I had a separate DIY PVC canister with a slow pump, one that toped out at 60 gph. It worked well, but over time I took it off and my nitrates haven't changed.

I would recommend SeaChem Matrix. You could put it right in your canister, its made for a higher flow. I run it on my tanks now keeps the levels right where I need. That and carbon are all I use.
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Old 05-16-2011, 12:15 PM   #175
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I didn't really think that 5-10 nitrAtes was bad. You can do 20% water changes weekly (which is good anyway) and it should bring it down over the next couple months (not a quick process).
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Old 05-16-2011, 02:29 PM   #176
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I agree with what everyone has said, CO2 thens to bring your PH down and that could be a problem. If you do the water changes that Smitty has said you should be Okay.
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Old 05-16-2011, 11:36 PM   #177
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I'll be sure to keep a closer eye on my pH levels

Today pH is at 8.2ish
Nitrate is at 10. Im going on vacation on Thursday so I was planning on doing a 20% pwc.

Correct me if I am wrong but if I continue to do pwc till nitrate is at 0, will the tank maintain a lower nitrate around 0? Than do pwc every 2 weeks to lower nitrates again of course
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Old 05-17-2011, 08:07 AM   #178
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I don't know that it is possible to have a tank with 0 nitrate unless you have an external source using it up (a lot of macro algae or a bit reactor of some kind). It takes a lot of pwcs to get it down that little and to keep it down that low, I don't know that one ever 2 weeks will do it.
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Old 05-17-2011, 10:41 AM   #179
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I've been keeping my trates at 0 with a weekly pwc of about 15%. it did take forever to get to the 0 I must admit. lol
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Old 05-17-2011, 10:44 AM   #180
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my trates are 0 i just recently started changing 10G out of the 55G a week so that probably has alot to do with it, its alot of work but its worth it lol
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