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06-27-2009, 04:27 AM
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#1
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Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Southern Cali
Posts: 25
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Fishless Cycle Test Results
Hello everyone, Just wanted to say this is a great forum. I've done a lot of reading on this forum, its been a great help getting started in saltwater tanks. I just had a question. I just started cycling my 55g tank with ro/di water. 3 days ago (Tuesday) I added about 40# of base rock from marco rocks along with 22# of live pre-cured rock from liveaquaria. I did not test the water parameters on tuesday or wednesday. I added 2 raw shrimps to the tank yesterday (Thursday).
Today (Friday) my water results showed
Ammonia: ~.75 ppm
Nitrite: 1.0 ppm
Nitrate: 80 ppm
I was just curious as to where exactly I am on the cycle. From reading the articles here, the ammonia should have jumped up followed by a jump in the nitrites, and then the nitrates. For some reason, the first thing to raise significantly in my tank was the nitrates. Should I do a PWC to get the levels down slightly, or just continue to moniter the situation and see where it goes? Should I remove the shrimps (too much ammonia converted to nitrite converted to nitrate)? I'm using an API master liquid test kit if that matters. Thanks for any help, and all the information found on this site, its been extremely useful so far.
Ryan
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06-27-2009, 04:38 AM
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#2
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Aquarium Advice Freak
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: PA
Posts: 343
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Leave the tank alone as far as I'm concerned. All your water parameters will work out in due time!
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06-27-2009, 04:47 AM
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#3
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Community Mentor
Join Date: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,067
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You're off to a good start. I think that your LR played an important role in your cycle jumping for little ammonia and right into your nitrite reading. You could do a 20% water change now. That way if you have many desirable macro algae and inverts that would give them a better chance of surviving
the cycle. Doing a water change will not harm your cycle because most of your good bacteria lives on and in your rock, glass, and sand.
Remember if you chose not to do a PWC that you should do a 50% or greater "Before you add any fish or corals". After that a large water change would harm your fish or corals.....
Happy Reefing
__________________
Happy Reefing,
TC
Czara did it!
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06-27-2009, 09:12 AM
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#4
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SW Reef 11+ years
Community Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Richmond Va
Posts: 18,849
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I would not do one because it will slow down the cycle. Just let it go and keep an eye out for those ammonia and nitrites.
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06-27-2009, 10:05 AM
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#5
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Aquarium Advice Activist
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 142
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I cycled w/ out LR and it.....toooook......fooooooreveeeer. Not mention when I did add the LR after the cycle I may have caused another cycle which may have killed my first attempt at a fish.
In hindsight, adding that LR right away is really important. IMO
Whats base rock?
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06-27-2009, 11:05 AM
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#6
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Community Mentor
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Philly
Posts: 1,707
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You could probably do without the shrimp. Between the 'cured' (shipped) live rock and the base marco (notorious for having dead organics) you have plenty of sources for ammonia. I'd take em out, or cut back to a 1/2 one and see if that keeps the ammonia going. If your timing and readings are correct, you're well on your way.
The 80 in nitrates is high so soon. Did you test the source water?
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06-27-2009, 01:17 PM
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#7
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Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Southern Cali
Posts: 25
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I did test the source water for nitrates, thinking maybe it was already in the water. It read 0 for nitrates. I guess I'll just leave the tank for now, and monitor it. Are there any recommendations for me if the nitrates continue to climb quickly? Thanks for any help guys.
Base rock is basically dry rock that has been out of the water for some period of time, the opposite of live rock i guess.
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06-27-2009, 01:28 PM
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#8
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Community Mentor
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Philly
Posts: 1,707
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You've got limited options: a) PWC, b) a fuge w/ macro or mangroves c) run a denitrator.
What kind of water is it? tap/RO-DI/etc?
Should have added: Other than the obvious; use RO/DI water, don't over feed, rinse your frozen food, make sure your CUC is where it should be.
Last edited by CaptainAhab; 06-27-2009 at 01:55 PM..
Reason: added
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06-27-2009, 03:43 PM
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#9
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Ga
Posts: 1,494
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r312h
Hello everyone, Just wanted to say this is a great forum. I've done a lot of reading on this forum, its been a great help getting started in saltwater tanks. I just had a question. I just started cycling my 55g tank with ro/di water. 3 days ago (Tuesday) I added about 40# of base rock from marco rocks along with 22# of live pre-cured rock from liveaquaria. I did not test the water parameters on tuesday or wednesday. I added 2 raw shrimps to the tank yesterday (Thursday).
Today (Friday) my water results showed
Ammonia: ~.75 ppm
Nitrite: 1.0 ppm
Nitrate: 80 ppm
I was just curious as to where exactly I am on the cycle. From reading the articles here, the ammonia should have jumped up followed by a jump in the nitrites, and then the nitrates. For some reason, the first thing to raise significantly in my tank was the nitrates. Should I do a PWC to get the levels down slightly, or just continue to moniter the situation and see where it goes? Should I remove the shrimps (too much ammonia converted to nitrite converted to nitrate)? I'm using an API master liquid test kit if that matters. Thanks for any help, and all the information found on this site, its been extremely useful so far.
Ryan
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I agree with the advice of the others. Sorry if I missed it somewhere, but you're not cycling without the water being mixed are you?
__________________
8G Peacock Gudgeon, 75G CA/SA cichlids, 120G Planted, 50G Mixed Reef ( Build). 125G Reef and 100G frag tank in process.
Save the reefs... Buy captive raised when possible!
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06-27-2009, 04:48 PM
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#10
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Community Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 13,152
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Base rock is dry rock. Usually it is white since there is no algae on it. Check out marcorocks.com, to see what it looks like.
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