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Old 12-03-2005, 09:15 PM   #11
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yes Higher intensity will give you better penetration but if he has low watts per gallon in a big tank that could be the problem couldnt it?
I prefer to think of it from the oppisite direction...A tank with 6-7 wpg of CF lighting would not automatically qualitfy it to keep light-demanding animals. In this case, depth is what is important. While 150watts of MH lighting may not be enought to sustain a clam placed on the substrate. Moving the clam to a higher place on the rockwork is a better option.
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Small clams neeeeeed to be fed. They need to be taken out of the tank (in a bowl of water) and the water needs to be saturated with phytoplankton (DTs).
I agree with Phyllis in that small clams do need direct feedings. I would caution removing the clam from the tank to do so. Rock dwelling species such as the Crocea will actually attach to the rock and romoving them could cause damage to the foot...leading to infection etc. Even clams that prefer the sustrate should be provided with a flat rock burried in the substrate that they can attach to.
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Old 12-04-2005, 01:02 AM   #12
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I'm sorry! I missed the fact that it was a MH fixture. I saw Orbit and heard PC

MH should be fine once it is big enough to be photosynthetic. Until then feedings are still a must. Taking the clam out of the tank is still a good idea because you can super saturate the water in the bowl without risking fouling your tank. If you let them attach to a shell or small portable rock then taking it out of the tank is easier on them.
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Old 12-04-2005, 01:19 AM   #13
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I have never kept clams but could a syringe or something similar with the food be injected close to its mouth also?
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Old 12-04-2005, 01:53 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by AndyH5512
On a side note, I just got some Roti-Rich from the LFS to feed the clam. Has anyone ever tried using this stuff?
Rotifers are generally too large for clams to injest (50-100 nm) while live phytoplanton is right in the range (4-40 nm) and will feed the clam just fine. Until it reach's the 2ish" size range, it will rely quite strongly on these feedings.

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Old 12-04-2005, 01:58 PM   #15
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I have never kept clams but could a syringe or something similar with the food be injected close to its mouth also?
Too much too fast/often can cause the gills to clog, especially if the micron size is not appropriate. While still quite small they can be removed from the tank and "bowl fed". Many prefer placing them in a small 5-10 gallon tank and just add the foods there until they reach an appropraite size for a display tank. Basically your looking for enough surface area on the mantle for it to properly photosynthesize it's own food via zooxanthellae. Typically once the reach the 2"+ size, they will need much less in the way of direct feedings.

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Old 12-04-2005, 02:56 PM   #16
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Hey Steve. This particular clam (if it survives last night's MIA fiasco-under another post) is just under 2." Shall I grab some phytoplankton, then?
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Old 12-05-2005, 10:44 AM   #17
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Wouldn't hurt to feed it some for the short term anyway. Once it gets over about 2" and has a good mantle extension, you can simpley add the phyto to the tank occasionally as supplimentation. For now though, you really need to ensure it's feeding.

How is the clam attached if at all and where (on the bottom?) has it been placed in the tank?

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Old 12-05-2005, 01:18 PM   #18
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Steve, it's not attached yet. I have it placed on the sand substrate. Since it was plowed into the sand the other night, though, I am going to place it on a flat rock and build a small rubble wall around it. I dont want it plowed into the sand again.
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Old 12-06-2005, 11:18 AM   #19
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They will be alot healthier if you can let them attach but something small and mobile is best. Either a flat piece of rock like you suggested or ½ shell from a dead clam. That way the clam can be more appropriately placed when it's light needs become more important that feeding.

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Old 12-06-2005, 02:58 PM   #20
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Thanks, I got the DT's last night. All seems to be well.
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