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Old 03-03-2012, 06:20 PM   #51
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So the little tube just sucks in air I take it. The other tube hooks to the barb on the collection cup? Where does the other end need to be? What does the dial dealie do? Nothing has to hook to either end of it?
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Old 03-03-2012, 06:25 PM   #52
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Tube attached to motor sucks air yes
tube attached to collection cup allows gook to drain....

I'm not sure what dial dealie do you are referring to..lol
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Old 03-03-2012, 06:26 PM   #53
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The dial dealie is just a stopper. My only assumption is that it's an emptying tube... which is what I use it for. Mine just kind of hangs there, so I can just put a bucket under it and dump the cup out, while holding my nose.
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Old 03-03-2012, 06:27 PM   #54
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So the cup drain hose, where do I put it? Do I need to have some kind of collection container or something?
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Old 03-03-2012, 06:31 PM   #55
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Ah ok. I get it.

The dial I am referring to is on the PVC tube that runs vertically next to the cylinder.

I assume it controls how much flow the skimmer takes? I guess I don't really get what that pipe is for.
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Old 03-03-2012, 06:35 PM   #56
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The is the output pipe - the gate valve controls the back pressure in the skimmer, raising or lowering the water inside skimmer
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Old 03-03-2012, 06:39 PM   #57
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Ok. There isn't going to be water shooting out the top of it or anything right? Lol sorry this is the first time I have looked at a protein skimmer in person.
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Old 03-03-2012, 07:21 PM   #58
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No water shooting out. The air line cause the pump to inject air bubbles into the reaction chamber. DOCs bind to the bubbles and move up and into the collection cup. You can adjust how high the water in the chamber is thereby adjusting the output from 'wet' (a light tea color) to 'dry' (black coffee). I go for just darker than regular coffee look to the skimmate (the stuff that ends up in the collection cup).

Great job so far. I use only Salifert test kits for Ca, Alk, Mg, and NO3 as they are titration tests with a sharp color shift so I don't have to match colors of my test result to a strip of paper. Being color blind those close calls don't work for me. The Salifert sharp change of color works great.

Don't chase pH. It will change during the day being lowest at lights on and highest at lights out. Keeping Alk, Ca and Mg in line should maintain pH at an acceptable level. If you get an electronic pH meter be aware that it reads much lower than liquid test kits.

Looking great. I'm jealous and now thinking of moving furniture or getting rid of some so I can start another tank

When you're ready for corals get a Hanna phosphate checker. Can't be beat for the price.

If you want some cheato for the sump I can send you some for the cost of shipping (~$9.00). It's time for me to prune mine again.

Keep posting your progress.
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Old 03-03-2012, 09:33 PM   #59
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Thanks Cmor. I will definitely check out the phosphate checker. The titration PO4 test takes forever. I only check it in my planted tanks every 6 weeks or so, but obviously it will be much more critical in a reef setting. The easier the better!

I have a pH controller laying around from my fw days. I was going to hook it inline with my ATO float valves as a failsafe.
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Old 03-04-2012, 04:19 PM   #60
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Ok plumbing in sump is basically done and fuge light installed.

The hose on the drain bulkhead is a bit loose for comfort. It is snug, but not snug enough. I think I will just throw a hose clamp on it. I cut the drain hose so that it is about 2" below where the water line will be in the first sump compartment.
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