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Old 08-27-2007, 07:11 PM   #11
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well i will be going glass for the tank as it will be on a concrete foundation and the fact i want to save 500 dollars
as for the sump i will only do what i can afford and thats using my 55 but when i get more money i will add the largest tank i can fit under the tank

and for lighting i am going to be doing one 400w over the reef part that will be on one side and two-three 250w over the rest of the tank or maybe vho or pc over the open water part of the tank
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Old 08-27-2007, 07:39 PM   #12
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I'll have to find the name of the company we worked with, but it is up for review by ReefKeeping Magazine I believe. As with most retail acrylic buffering systems, they cater to minor blemishes, which is why a solution is packaged in order to keep the acrylic from hazing. The system we used involved various grit sizes and is designed to work underwater without solutions. The system also works out of the water; however, the surface must remain wet (we used spray bottles with water). The technique is fairly simple by countering the direction of the scratch with each grit size. For example, if there is a scratch extending upwards you would take a starter grit and rub the scratch from side to side until the scratch is no more. You would then take the next stage grit (finer grit) and rub opposite of the last direction (so up and down) and continue to change grits and directions until buffed. Essentially, you are making more scratches to get rid of the scratches. There are no buffering solutions needed because buffering grits are available. For large tanks, such as at my work, we used underwater air powered tools to apply the final buffer; however, that was used on a 10,000g+ displays and is not required for hobby tanks.
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Old 08-28-2007, 03:57 AM   #13
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Quote:
and for lighting i am going to be doing one 400w over the reef part that will be on one side and two-three 250w over the rest of the tank or maybe vho or pc over the open water part of the tank
Ah...a partial reef...very nice. You can really have a diverse population of all sorts of things in there, especially coral. What corals are you most interested in?

My favorites are the deep reef corals...gorgonias, carnations, chillis, etc. Someday I'd like to set up a 120 gallon deep reef and maybe try a crack at breeding black capped basslets. That would be sweeeeeet.

Innovator...that sounds really cool. Definitely something to keep an eye out for. Thanks for the info.
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Old 08-28-2007, 04:17 PM   #14
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the reason i want to do a partial reef is so i can have a stingray i find them to be very fasinating
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Old 08-28-2007, 08:11 PM   #15
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Stingrays are wonderful creatures, however many of them are protected under federal law and possibly international law on some. Definitely check laws on the species you plan to obtain and double check conservation status.

Also note...a 300 gallon tank WILL become way too small. This is an animal that really needs their space to do well in captivity just like any other shark. I'd recommend nothing less than a 1000 gallons for a marine ray.
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We, as a people, know so much more about outer space than we do about our own oceans. This lack of knowledge can very well spell the dangers that lay in wait for us.

The oceans surely would swallow us before a rock comes down to smite the planet of it's life.
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Old 08-28-2007, 08:26 PM   #16
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well it will be a california ray and my lfs sells them
and hey in the future you never know i may go with a 1000gal well lets say i hope i do

as they say go big or go home
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Old 08-28-2007, 08:54 PM   #17
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Concerning Urobatis halleri, a standard 300g Tall would be plenty of room for even a pair (max out at 22" and 10" disc width), but my main concern is whether or not you know that these are cold water animals that require averages temperatures of 63F.
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Old 08-28-2007, 09:12 PM   #18
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i had a baby ray in my 55 and he was awsome i was able to hand feed him it was GREAT
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Old 08-28-2007, 10:58 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Innovator
I'll have to find the name of the company we worked with, but it is up for review by ReefKeeping Magazine I believe. As with most retail acrylic buffering systems, they cater to minor blemishes, which is why a solution is packaged in order to keep the acrylic from hazing. The system we used involved various grit sizes and is designed to work underwater without solutions. The system also works out of the water; however, the surface must remain wet (we used spray bottles with water). The technique is fairly simple by countering the direction of the scratch with each grit size. For example, if there is a scratch extending upwards you would take a starter grit and rub the scratch from side to side until the scratch is no more. You would then take the next stage grit (finer grit) and rub opposite of the last direction (so up and down) and continue to change grits and directions until buffed. Essentially, you are making more scratches to get rid of the scratches. There are no buffering solutions needed because buffering grits are available. For large tanks, such as at my work, we used underwater air powered tools to apply the final buffer; however, that was used on a 10,000g+ displays and is not required for hobby tanks.
EverClear Transparency Refurbishing, Inc.
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Old 08-30-2007, 12:57 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fast94tracer
and hey in the future you never know i may go with a 1000gal well lets say i hope i do

as they say go big or go home
Exactly!
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