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JimMc

Aquarium Advice Newbie
Joined
Dec 5, 2005
Messages
1
Location
Texas
Just set up a Perfecto 60 gallon corner tank. The tank is a bowfront (about 4' across) and is squared off at the corner piece to allow room for HOB stuff (probably 18" wide or so). It came with a Marineland glass top and a regular 30" dual fluorescent fixture (60 watts I believe).

I have added 3" of CaribSea oolite sand, saltwater and a 10 lb live rock and a shrimp to cycle. Right now, I have a Penguin 350 biowheel circulating. I did throw in a couple of cups of sand from my 20 gallon and half a gallon or so of water from my 20 gallon tank.

I just received today 45 pounds of Fiji LR from aquaria.com and 2 maxijets 1200's, those hydor flow rotating nozzles, a Visi-Therm 250W heater, a new test kit and a digital thermometer.

My cycle has started, I'm registering ammonia at .5-1, nitrite of .25, very slight nitrate and ph about 8.4. Salinity is in the middle zone on my swing arm hydrometor.

Her's my plan:

1. currently washing the 45 lbs. of live rock, throw it in the tank. Kind of an amphitheater look, mounded high in the back and tapering down along the sides. I do hate it when the fish hide between the rock and the glass, but I guess they like the security?

2. Mount the 2 1200's and rotating heads toward the back of the tank about a 2/3 up from the bottom and kind of aim them in the middle (I'm trusting the rotating heads will create the random currents needed).

3. Keep running the penguin 350 and bio wheel till the cycle completes.

4. Place the heater on the back of the tank toward the bottom horizontally, would like to have the LR in front of it.

5. In a month or so, when the budget is available, I'll add a Aqua C Remora. I picked this skimmer because it has that collection box which cleans up the look a little and I can put in floss, charcoal, whatever. I then plan to retire the bio wheel filter.

6. I know I will need better lighting, it looks like I can fit a 24" PC fluorescent with a lunar light behind the standard light fixture. I harbor no intentions toward hard coral, but would like to have the potential for anenomes and such. Should I just junk the standard light fixture and add a solo PC fixture in the 135W range, or supplement the standard fixture with a 65 watt or so PC fixture? I should add that I do want a fixture with the lunar lights.

7. Stock list, right now we plan on 3 true clowns, a coral beauty angel, a yellow tang and one of the two yellow-tail damsels in the 20 gallon (they fight constantly). We also have a chocolate chip star in the 20 gallon, not sure if it should move or stay. We'll also add a bunch of snails and hermits after cycling.


Thoughts or suggestions? This tank is for my wife, she has wanted one forever, and I want to do it right for her. Thanks in advance.
 
What do you mean by washing the LR??? You should not wash live rock.

You will need between 200 and 300 watts of lighting for the tank if you wish to have anemones. 135 watts is less than 3 watts per gallon. You want nothing short of 3 watts per gallon and preferrably more especially with a deep tank so you'd be better off with 4 to 5 watts per gallon with 10,000K PCs.

The chocolate chip star is not a reef safe star becuase they can damage coral. You should be able to judge where the star goes with this bit of info.

If you intend on keeping any type of coral including anemones, the best thing is to run reef grade carbon for a week once a month instead of running carbon in there constantly. Reason for this is because carbon can absorb necessary trace elements from the system.

Taking the bio wheel off the tank will deplete the system of a lot of nitrifying bacteria and can cause an ammonia spike. I would suggest keeping the bio wheel on there until the fish are in and there's more live rock and when the water parameters are stable with the fish in there...and when you do remove the bio wheel, add a supplimental bio additive like Nitromax Marine for about two weeks to avoid an ammonia spike. This will help protect the fish while the bio catches up for the loss of bio.
 
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