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Old 05-05-2008, 12:24 AM   #11
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Thanks guys.

Kurt, is a submersible powerhead a good idea?
I'll turn off the bubbles....it seemed like my damselfish liked to play in them

I'll also try keeping the lights off. And I'll add some snails once my NitrItes and ammonia tail back down to zero.

I might also invest in some more rock. Looks kinda scant in there. Oh, also, I did a 25% water change yesterday.
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Old 05-05-2008, 12:36 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by CluelessInNY View Post
Thanks guys.

Kurt, is a submersible powerhead a good idea?
Not sure what you mean... as I mentioned, you're most likely going to want more flow in there. Most folks shoot for between 10x and 20x their tank size in circulation turnover per hour. For example, if you have a 30 gallon tank, you should plan for a combined powerhead and filter pump capacity of 300 to 600 gallons/hour. You'll find the gallons/hour rating on either the powerhead itself, or somewhere in the literature that came with it.
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Old 05-05-2008, 12:39 AM   #13
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I was looking at a "submersible" powerhead today. Apparently, you can stick it in the substrate and circulate the water entirely below the surface.
No idea what that means either, but apparently it exists.
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Old 05-05-2008, 03:03 AM   #14
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All powerheads are submersible. You either suction cup them to your side glass, or use magnetic mounts. I highly recommend magnetic mounts.
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Old 05-05-2008, 01:26 PM   #15
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That submersible may be part of an undergravel filter, which you don't want. Look at the Hydor Korelias, I love mine.
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Old 05-07-2008, 11:55 AM   #16
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Update: killing the lights has helped! two days after blacking out the tank, I have much less algae!!!
My tanks is humming along at normal alk, nitrA 2.5, nitrI .05, pH 8.0, and ammonia .25
I can hear my clownfish calling in a couple of weeks
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Old 05-07-2008, 12:12 PM   #17
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I agree with Kurt. Also you will probably want to add much more LR to your tank. For good filtration you will want 1.5 to 2lbs per gallon. The top you have on your tank is going to give you issues with your PH down the road. Also the power head you have you can take the air inlet off you don't need it in a SW tank. It will turn your tank into a giant skimmer not to mention add to the salt creep on your hood.

From the numbers you posted it looks like your tank never fully cycled but you are on your way. Add some more LR and or base rock to your tank add more flow and siphon out the cyano.
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Old 05-07-2008, 12:37 PM   #18
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The hood is a pH problem waiting to happen? How so? UGH!
I thought I recorded a nitrAte spike on 4/17 of 10. I've had the tank for almost two months and had a Damsel in there until this past weekend. The LFS guy said it's okay to take her out and add some rock if I wished. I'll defintiely add some more LR this weekend. sounds like I need 40 lbs of the stuff, but at $9/lbs., I will only add maybe 10 more lbs as budget allows.
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Old 05-07-2008, 01:28 PM   #19
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The hood will reduce the O2 exchange, thus lowering your pH. I had a lid on and couldn't keep a higher pH and I got tired of using a pH buffer (I like to do things the natural way, as much as possible).
Check out dry base rock or lace rock, it's a lot more cheaper.
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Old 05-09-2008, 01:58 PM   #20
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Alright, we are week into my tiny LR collection of 8 lbs. and I've heard the advice here about upping htat amount and maybe adding something called "base rock", which might run a bit cheaper. Sooooo, the questions at hand are...
1) what is base rock?
2) am I upsetting bioload with the added rock?
3) do accesories like plastic plants, plastic ornaments, etc add to the bioload or affect chemical balance?
4) is it okay to add a clean-up crew yet, or is that for after I add the clownfish?
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