Heaters tun off when not at correct temp?

[jamal-188]

I have 2 heaters in my 110 SW tank. They are Acura 1000, 200 watts each. I recently set them at 88 because my blenny has been scratching on rocks so I figure he might have a mild parasite infection because I cannot see anything on him. The light on the heaters tuns off even though my tank is not at 88, any idea why they do this?

 

[jamal-188]

I think maybe the thermometers don't work, they are the ones you stick on the outside of the glass. When I stick my hand in the water it feels very warm?

 

[steve-s]

Raising the temp in the tank will only stress the blenny. The only result as far as any parasite goes will be to increase it's reproductive state. In SW, raising the temp will do nothing to kill most if not all parasitic or bacterial problems, it only makes them worse. I would suggest getting the temp back down to the 80° mark over the next few days.

If you think the fish may have a problem then best set up a QT tank for possible treatment. If you do not have the materials, it's best to have them before they may be needed. If you wait until there is a sign of a problem, you delay the treatment time and increase the chances of losing the animal.

The stick-on thermometer could be a problem. Some are not that accurate and are affected by ambient room temp. Better to get one that can goes in the tank or possible a digital reader with a temp probe.

Cheers
Steve

 

[jamal-188]

Thanks Steve-s for answering so many of my posts!! I was told by a "marine biologist" from thatfishplace website to raise the temp to 88 because most parasites cannot live at that temperature, but now a few people have been telling me that it will only stress the fish out and make the parasite worse. I do have a 10g Q tank set up now with 2 new fish in it, and actually one of them is scratching right now so I added some copper to the water. I cannot see anything on the blenny now, should I wait to see if he can beat it on his own or should I just take him out and add him to the Q tank now but that will stress him out further.

BTW, what coper level do I want in my Q tank, I have a Seachem test kit that is kind of difficult to read but it reads from 0-1.0

 

[steve-s]

Thanks Steve-s for answering so many of my posts!! I was told by a "marine biologist" from thatfishplace website to raise the temp to 88 because most parasites cannot live at that temperature, but now a few people have been telling me that it will only stress the fish out and make the parasite worse

No offense to his academic credentials but most marine biologists know very little about actual husbandry. Temp may affect some FW problems will will have no posistive affect on SW problems. In all cases it will only speed up the reproductive rates and multiply faster. That means the animals are infected much faster and to a greater extent.

I do have a 10g Q tank set up now with 2 new fish in it, and actually one of them is scratching right now so I added some copper to the water. I cannot see anything on the blenny now, should I wait to see if he can beat it on his own or should I just take him out and add him to the Q tank now but that will stress him out further.

If you are already treating fish for ich and they where removed from the main tank, then most likely any other fish in that tank will have ich as well. Blennies are much better at repelling ich but are by no means immune. It will eventually become infested. Treat it now before there is a real problem. You will also need to make sure the main tank stays fishless for 4 weeks. That is the only way to be sure of no re-occurances. Just be careful the QT does not get crowded and watch the water quality.

BTW, what coper level do I want in my Q tank, I have a Seachem test kit that is kind of difficult to read but it reads from 0-1.0

If you are using >>Cupramine by Seachem<<, then their corresponding multi-test >>copper test kit<< should work with it and measures in increments of 0.01 mg/l.
1 mg/l = 1 ppm.

If using Cupramine, the recommended level to maintain is 0.5 mg/l.

HTH
Cheers
Steve

 

[jamal-188]

Wow, my main tank has to stay fishless for 4 weeks. Is there any other alternative besides treating the main tank with copper? Does any other product like Kick-Ick work that is safe with inverts? I just got done treating my main tank with copper and I have no idea what happened again, the only think I can think is maybe there was ick on a piece of fake coral I transfered from my Q tank to my display tank. So a couple days ago I bought 2 new fish and put them in my Q tank. The one is now scratching so I'm going to treat that but I can't put my blenny and all my other fish in the Q tank because it's only 10g. Do I have to go out and buy another Q tank to treat the blenny and other fish? I just don't understand what people do if they have like 20 fish in the tank and it gets infested?

 

[steve-s]

Wow, my main tank has to stay fishless for 4 weeks. Is there any other alternative besides treating the main tank with copper? Does any other product like Kick-Ick work that is safe with inverts? I just got done treating my main tank with copper and I have no idea what happened again

Never treat the main tank with copper. It does not leave the system and will prevent the addition of future inverts as well as killing the animals that live in the rock and sandbed. "Reef Safe" meds rarely do what they claim and should not be relied upon to solve the problem. Proper qquarantine and proven cures should only be encouraged. Leaving the main diplay tank fishless is the best way to ensure the parasite dies out and eliminates the need to treat the display tank with undesirable after effects.

the only think I can think is maybe there was ick on a piece of fake coral I transfered from my Q tank to my display tank.

Never mix equipment or anything else from the QT to the diplay tank. You run the risk of contamination from toxic meds as well as parasites.

So a couple days ago I bought 2 new fish and put them in my Q tank. The one is now scratching so I'm going to treat that but I can't put my blenny and all my other fish in the Q tank because it's only 10g. Do I have to go out and buy another Q tank to treat the blenny and other fish? I just don't understand what people do if they have like 20 fish in the tank and it gets infested?

If each new addition is properly quarantined for 4 weeks prior to introduction to the main tank, the risk of infecting the population in the main tank is reduced to almost nil. There is always the chance of human error or misdiagnosis. Instead of being prepared to treat 20 fish you only need treat the possible new additions.

Unless you disrupt the lifecycle of the parasite amd ensure the cycle is broken you will continually have this problem. Removing all the fish and treating them seperately is still the best option. You may need a larger QT or possible set up an additional one.

Other than the 2 new fish and blenny, how many are we talk'in?

Cheers
Steve

 

[jamal-188]

Other than the 2 new fish and blenny, how many are we talk'in?


Steve

I have a coral beauty that I know see ick on, and 8 damsels. I don't care if I need to return a few of the damsels. I guess maybe I'll just buy another 20G to keep the blenny, coral beauty, and maybe 2 damsels. Then treat both quarnteen tanks for 4 weeks while my main tank is waiting for the ick to die. Should I pick up a UV sterilzier while I'm doing all this?

BTW the copper I have is Coppersalfe by Mardel but the test kit is Seachem. I guess I just use their recomended dosage.

 

[steve-s]

Coppersafe is a chelated form of copper but the Seachem test should measure it accurately. Read the Seachem instructions to be sure.

Make sure you also follow the Coppersafe directions to the letter. 1 tspn for every 4 gal of water volume to be treated, so basically 2½ tspn for the 10 gal tank. Treatment should be 30 days and must be added to any change water prior to adding to the QT based of saltwater volume prepared. Cocentrations should be maintain at 1.5-2.0 ppm as long as the instructions are followed properly but should still be verified by a proper test kit.

Cheers
Steve

 

[jamal-188]

Ok well I decided to actually go and buy a decent aquarium to house all the fish in while my display tank cycles off the ICK. I'll probably get something in the 30-50 gallon corner tank, figured I may as well get something decent so I can use it when I"m done with this. Anyway, I'll have to transfer all the fish to this tomorrow, how should I go about filling the tank? Should I fill like 1/2 of it with water from my 110G and the other half with new water then re-fill my 110G with new water? Keep in mind this new tank will be run from a new filter so my biological filtration will probably not be at it's best. I will take several handfuls of crushed coral from my 110G to help out. Any other ideas would be great!!

 

[steve-s]

The more water that can be syphoned from the main tank to the QT the better. It will allow for better parameters right from the start and you will not need to re-acclimate the fish to the new tank. It will however not transfer any bacteria. Best suggestion is take something from the 110 gal filtration system if possible. I would not use the CC or rock for transfering the bacteria but rather any filter pads, a few bio balls or something else that can later be discarded.

Cheers
Steve

 

[jamal-188]

Ok sounds good, I can take a few bio balls. My only other concern now is if I take almost all the water I need from the display tank then I have to re-fill that with new water for the crabs/snails/starfish/cucumber. I guess that shouldn't be too much of a problem because I'll still have everything else that has the good bacteria on it such as all my bio balls cc etc... Any last suggestions before I make my trip to the pet store? Thank you sooo much, I don't know what I would have done without your help

BTW, I'll probably get a canister filter for the new tank, or a Marineland 400, I can't spend thta much more on another wet/dry setup :?

 

[steve-s]

Consider it a large water change . Just be sure to properly match salinity, temp and ph so you do not shock the invert population. Otherwise you should be good to go. You really don't need to go to all the fuss of another complete tank set up but that is up to you. As long as there is enough room, filtration and a heater, the holding tank does not need to be glass. Any clean plastic bin/rubbermaid tote will do.

Cheers
Steve