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Old 04-07-2010, 11:01 PM   #11
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Old 04-08-2010, 12:46 AM   #12
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In your first post you stated that you were using a "marineland test kit color chart", then you stated that you were using an API test kit. Which one are you using. You can't mix the charts between the two of them.
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Old 04-08-2010, 11:57 AM   #13
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I didn't follow directions

I didn't follow the test directions correctly and thats why I was getting the ammonia detection errors. I did the test correctly and my ammonia readings where between .5 and 1.0 ppm. This was after I added two tablespoons of pure ammonia. I am going to test the levels again on Friday. Should I add more ammonia if my levels are still at the current readings.
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Old 04-08-2010, 12:16 PM   #14
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I am using the api test kit

I am using the api test kit
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Old 04-08-2010, 02:06 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jay179 View Post
I didn't follow the test directions correctly and thats why I was getting the ammonia detection errors. I did the test correctly and my ammonia readings where between .5 and 1.0 ppm. This was after I added two tablespoons of pure ammonia. I am going to test the levels again on Friday. Should I add more ammonia if my levels are still at the current readings.


Cycling with Ammonia
Prep...Raise Aq. Temp. to 86 degrees to speed up cycle...
  1. Introduce pure ammonia to cycle the aquarium. You can buy unscented ammonia with no additives from a supermarket or a bottle of ammonium chloride.
  2. Add ammonia from a dropper, 3 - 5 drops per 10 gallons of water per day to get and maintain a reading of 5 ppm.
  3. Initially there will be no nitrites. Monitor nitrites daily and continue the daily ammonia dose until you get a nitrite reading. At this point you can reduce the daily amount of ammonia to 2 - 3 drops per 10 gallons. Continue this until both the ammonia test and the nitrite test reads 0 ppm.
  4. This method can take as little as three weeks or up to six weeks to complete the nitrification cycle, but adding a starter culture can speed the time up considerably.
  5. When the cycle is complete reduce the temperature slowly back to 74 ° to 80 ° F(26 ° - 28 ° C). Reducing it quickly can stress the bacteria.
  6. Do a major water change, about 90%, and add activated carbon to remove any possible additives which might have been in the ammonia.
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Old 04-08-2010, 02:15 PM   #16
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The reason for the large PWC is that this is the only time you have a chance to reduce your nitrates with a major water change and not affect your fish and/or inverts.
I prefer to use cocktail shrimp. I think it introduces a wider range of bacteria and is self regulating so you don't have to be testing and adding ammonia everyday. But that's just me and the pure ammonia cycle works just as well. It just takes more energy on the reefers part...
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