I skimmed this thread, so forgive me if that has been covered ad-nauseum, but using WPG
when talking LEDs, or even talking about total Watts when it comes to LEDs in not an accurate way to determine whether or not you are getting a good fixture.
Let me preface this by saying I am by no means a reef tank expert - my reef tank is less than a year old. However, I have been reading, researching, and using high powered aquarium lighting for years on FW
planted tanks, and all of this is equally applicable on that side of the hobby. My experience includes using CFL, T8, T5HO, T5NO, PC
, high powered LEDs, and low powered LEDs.
PAR is a much more accurate way to discuss whether or not you have the correct amount of light for a reef tank, though more updated thinking is evening getting away from that, at least when comparing output of a t5ho or VHO
bulb to LEDs.
The point is, discussing total wattage is somewhat immaterial. The individual wattage of each diode is far more important, and whether or not the diode has optics installed is even more important.
What you want is to see at least 100-150 uMol at the sandbed if you want to promote growth in most coral - with higher being even more desirable. You could have 500W of LED
over your tank but if they are 0.1W diodes with no optics, you might get close to 0 uMol at the bottom of your tank. This is why it is so important to research your lighting and the requirements of the specific species you want to keep. This is also why certain COTS fixtures that are commonly available are wholly insufficient to grow most coral, even if they have the same or even higher wattage than more specialized, but perhaps less common LED
Just food for thought.
Also, I saw in another thread you said you had a $900 coral in your tank. I am trying to figure out how that is the case when in this thread you don't even have the equipment purchased yet?