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#11 | |||
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Aquarium Advice Addict
Community Mentor
Join Date: Nov 2006
Posts: 1,597
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I agree with Mr. Wizz on the initial post.
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2. See response 1. 3. Two 70w+/- to 100w+/- heaters would work or three 50w+/- to 70w+/- heaters. 4. Lighting highly depends on what you wish to keep in the long run so I would advise you to think about it more before making such an expensive purchase. You mention soft coral and polyps, but is that a starting point or is that all you wish to keep? 5. If you are going to drill the tank go ahead and drill for a closed loop as well. You can do a search on this and will negate the need for powerheads; however, I believe Koralia came out with a wavemaking device or Tunze Turbelle system. 6. SpectraPure is a personal choice. 7. A definite. 8. Fiji, Marshall Island, Tonga, etc. Stay away from dead coral skeleton rock since these tend to fall apart due to their brittleness. Atlantic rock is dead coral skeleton, but stronger due to locations recovered from. There is no need for rubble unless you just like the look or plan to create a refugium including it. Most aquarists use an aragonite based sand due to the fauna friendly shape (less pointy edges), but non aragonite can work just fine. Most dsb's (deep sand bed) use finer gradients, but not necessary either. 9. As others have stated, really not needed since most systems have the overflow distribute water through a filter sock, skimmer compartment, baffles with chemical media and bubble traps, refugium (optional), and back via return pump. |
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#12 |
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Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Anglesey, North Wales
Posts: 15
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Thanks for all the advice, am busy book worming on the subject too. Now all I have to do is move house in 4 weeks and get everything up and running - once I've bought the required equipment
Thanks Steve P.S. I'll get the photos up as soon as I start |
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