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Old 05-20-2012, 11:50 AM   #1
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How do I get rid of micro bubbles??

I have a 55 gal tank that has just fully cycled, its been up and running for maybe 3 months now, and all levels are where they should be, everything is "perfect". I had an air stone running but I turned it off because I think it might he behind the micro bubbles, someone suggested the filters were maybe pulling in some of those bubbles, it's been off for a few hours and I don't see a change so far, but I want to see if anyone has had a problem with their filters alone making micro bubbles. I have two 350 penguin filters at the back of the tank at opposite ends, but it looks like the bubbles from the water coming out of them is pushing the tiny bubbles down and making it worse? I have no protein skimmer, I don't know if I need one. I only have the filters running, should I have other things? I'm very new to this so all criticism is welcome. Thanks.

UPDATE EDIT:
So after turning off the air stone the bubbles decreased, but were still everywhere. I decided to see if it was being caused by the filters so I turned them both off and after a few minutes almost ALL the tiny micro bubbles were gone. HOWEVER, I need these filters running, right?? I turned them back on and as of now they are still both running but I'm wondering if perhaps they are going bad? I bought them used but they weren't making all these bubbles in the beginning. (When the bubbles first appeared we were told that it was just because the tank was at the end of it's cycle and bubbles were normal, so we didn't look into it thinking they would go away on their own.) They appear to be working fine, but I am NEW at this. I will try to post some pictures here so you guys can see what I'm working with.

HERE IS A VIDEO OF MY TANK:
With the air stone running:
http://i.imgur.com/wTjFB.jpg
Without the air stone:
http://i.imgur.com/Uu0kJ.jpg

I have also been told to try filling my tank up to the bottom of the black border, I will try to get that done after work today and let you guys know if it helps at all.
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Old 05-20-2012, 01:47 PM   #2
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I also had the micro bubbles slog all sides of my 55 gallon FW tank and they went away after I added fish idk if that coincidence or just luck
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Old 05-20-2012, 03:50 PM   #3
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I have a 55 gallon with a fluval 306 canister filter. Got a good deal at drs. Foster and smith. Super quiet and never ever the first micro bubble. Ditch the penguins. What other equipment are u running? And yes u need a skimmer. They are a pain to break in but are a must.
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Old 05-20-2012, 04:36 PM   #4
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Canisters, wet/dry, powerfilters all hinder reef tanks. The best method includes skimmer and live rock. Carbon and gfo can be places in bags or run in reactors as needed.

Live rock performs all biofiltration in a reef tank. Canisters, wet/drys, powerfilters trap organics where they decay and produce nitrates and phosphates. Nitrates and phosphate are number one enemies to a reef tank, especially low nutrient tanks. Corals do not tolerate any significant accumulation of nitrates well. Skimmers instead of trapping the organics remove them completely from the water column.

People who run skimmers and canisters will have elevated nitrate levels compared to skimmer alone. Also running a canister with skimmer significantly impacts skimmer performance and ability to remove organics before they are trapped by the canister filter.

Skimmer and live rock > skimmer, canister, live rock > canister, live rock. Fact not really debatable.
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Old 05-20-2012, 04:43 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schism
Canisters, wet/dry, powerfilters all hinder reef tanks. The best method includes skimmer and live rock. Carbon and gfo can be places in bags or run in reactors as needed.

Live rock performs all biofiltration in a reef tank. Canisters, wet/drys, powerfilters trap organics where they decay and produce nitrates and phosphates. Nitrates and phosphate are number one enemies to a reef tank, especially low nutrient tanks. Corals do not tolerate any significant accumulation of nitrates well. Skimmers instead of trapping the organics remove them completely from the water column.

People who run skimmers and canisters will have elevated nitrate levels compared to skimmer alone. Also running a canister with skimmer significantly impacts skimmer performance and ability to remove organics before they are trapped by the canister filter.

Skimmer and live rock > skimmer, canister, live rock > canister, live rock. Fact not really debatable.
This is really debatable. First off if you clean your filters like you're supposed to they will not be as bad as you say. You also forgot a refugium. I've ran reefs every way you've mentioned and more. I would choose a wet dry or trickle filter over just a skimmer any day.
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Old 05-20-2012, 04:44 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fishfighter
I have a 55 gallon with a fluval 306 canister filter. Got a good deal at drs. Foster and smith. Super quiet and never ever the first micro bubble. Ditch the penguins. What other equipment are u running? And yes u need a skimmer. They are a pain to break in but are a must.
They are not a must. They are great and work but they are NOT a must.


And to the OP try shoving some filter floss or filter pad at the top of the filter. That should help.
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Old 05-20-2012, 05:12 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ilostnemo

This is really debatable. First off if you clean your filters like you're supposed to they will not be as bad as you say. You also forgot a refugium. I've ran reefs every way you've mentioned and more. I would choose a wet dry or trickle filter over just a skimmer any day.
Sorry but the fact the skimmers dont produce nitrates and wet/drys, canisters, and powerfilters do is not debatable its a fact. Cleaning them often may reduce the problem but it is still producing nitrates. Refugiums are not needed, can they reduce nitrates? Yes, but they are also another piece that needs maintained regularly.

Been running reefs now over 8 years. Skimmer and live rock works every time 0 nitrates. The only thing you lose without a canister/wetdry/powerfilter is a small degree of mechanical filtration that can easily be picked up with filter socks when need and WATERCHANGES.
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Old 05-20-2012, 06:34 PM   #8
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As far as mechanical filtration, whats the difference between a filter sock being
changed once a week and a canister with a micron filter being cleaned and changed once a week?
I ran a 135 tall reef tank for over 5 years with a HOB skimmer and 2- Magnum 350's. As long as good maintenance practices are adhered to on the canister, IMO I don't see a difference in nitrate and phosphate production.
Where I do see a difference is the ease of a filter sock compared to a canister, which is one of the reasons that I now have a sump with filter sock, on my 180.
IME, does a canister work... Yes. Is it a pain in the *@&, Yes. Sump with sock is the way to go, but a canister will work if properly maintained.
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Old 05-20-2012, 06:47 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schism

Sorry but the fact the skimmers dont produce nitrates and wet/drys, canisters, and powerfilters do is not debatable its a fact. Cleaning them often may reduce the problem but it is still producing nitrates. Refugiums are not needed, can they reduce nitrates? Yes, but they are also another piece that needs maintained regularly.

Been running reefs now over 8 years. Skimmer and live rock works every time 0 nitrates. The only thing you lose without a canister/wetdry/powerfilter is a small degree of mechanical filtration that can easily be picked up with filter socks when need and WATERCHANGES.
He gave me the same advice about ditching my canister , and I was like this guy is &$*• crazy , but when I stopped to think it dose make A LOT of sense.
Fish poop = nitrates ( very basic )
Canister pulls form tank and traps in filter media

Skimmer pulls organically to cup and out of tank

The canister may remove it from the tank , but it dose not remove it from the water since all water will continue to flow through filter.

Skimmer pulls to cup .... End of story

After I though about it like that , it makes a lot of sense. Best way to prevent nitrates is to remove the source , not to just put it in another location :-/

And as for refuge , I agree not necessary but helpful since it will increase total water volume making keeping thing easier to stabilize. And will provide food for sps and pod reproduction

Also schism , after 2 50% changes trates are down to 5 ppm and no new canyo growth , only some brown dead canyo ^_^ ( is is also with just my skimmer no canister )

That could have been in my canister but is now out of the tank
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Old 05-20-2012, 09:31 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Newfiereefer

He gave me the same advice about ditching my canister , and I was like this guy is &$*• crazy , but when I stopped to think it dose make A LOT of sense.
Fish poop = nitrates ( very basic )
Canister pulls form tank and traps in filter media

Skimmer pulls organically to cup and out of tank

The canister may remove it from the tank , but it dose not remove it from the water since all water will continue to flow through filter.

Skimmer pulls to cup .... End of story

After I though about it like that , it makes a lot of sense. Best way to prevent nitrates is to remove the source , not to just put it in another location :-/

And as for refuge , I agree not necessary but helpful since it will increase total water volume making keeping thing easier to stabilize. And will provide food for sps and pod reproduction

Also schism , after 2 50% changes trates are down to 5 ppm and no new canyo growth , only some brown dead canyo ^_^ ( is is also with just my skimmer no canister )

That could have been in my canister but is now out of the tank
Very nice post that is a perfect understanding of the concept. And yes it will lead to less problems with canister gone.

Filter socks should not be used at all times. Only to remove large debris, maybe only keeping in for a day and removing. Absolutely no need to keep in at all times and can cause problems too especially if they get clogged. Im not saying canisters cant work, but there is a better way, and it requires less work, money, and reduces nitrate buildup.

Its a crazy concept for some people to wrap their head around but you are right in that good maintenance is key, anything can work pretty decently if its maintained like it should be. Doesnt usually happen like that tho with many.

Export is number one in a reef. Better out than in.
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