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Old 05-24-2014, 11:41 AM   #11
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I just added a salt water aquarium to the house after years of fresh water and the one thing I didn't see mentioned here is a test kit. (Nitrate,ph,etc.)Very helpful in my experience although I think most local pet stores will test your water for free if you want to make the drive. Also buying water is about 12-15$ for 5 gallons in my area, I would look on craigslist to see if anyone's selling a good ro/di unit for a reasonable price. Good luck! It's been fun to make the switch


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I'll agree with getting your own test kit but disagree with going to an LFS to test it. Their most common response is either, "Yeah, it's good." or "Looks fine." or the dreaded, "Oh your _____ is way off. You need to BUY ______." That's just my thoughts on LFS. I always go into any LFS with "preloaded" questions to judge wether they're worthy or not.
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Old 05-31-2014, 02:25 PM   #12
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If you have an API master freshwater test kit, email them for the saltwater chart. It's the same tests I'm pretty sure.
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Old 06-01-2014, 11:43 PM   #13
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I've tried to see if my lfs was giving honest tests, gave them some water to test, and asked if my ammonia was high, was told I need a new and much better filter, had a few words with the owner, and don't shop there any more, I had brought in distilled water to be tested!

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Old 06-02-2014, 02:05 AM   #14
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I would say that the RO/DI unit is one of the most important parts of a saltwater tank! It just takes the tap water that it is supplied with and runs it through 4+ filters to remove harmful impurities that are found in the water. If you have a 4 stage unit you will get a sediment filter, a carbon block, the ro membrane, and finally the di(deionization) media. It works by first forcing water into the sediment filter which removes larger particles that could clog the carbon stage. Then it goes into that carbon block which removes chlorine and other smaller particles that could ruin the membrane. Then the water is forced through a membrane which removes 98% of impurities. Finally it goes through the DI stage which should take out the left over particles that the membrane couldn't detect. You will need a TDS meter to measure the amount of total disolved solids that are going out your product line. The meter should read 0 and when it starts to climb it means you need to change out the filters! The RO membrane will only need to be changed every 6-12 months! Thats pretty much how it works!!!
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Old 06-02-2014, 03:44 AM   #15
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I agree if you don't have a trustworthy lfs or don't want to make the drive that much. It's always better to have your own test kit especially with saltwater. I hardly ever test my fresh water anymore because I do consistent water changes and it's predictable but now that I also have a salt water things are much more unpredictable and I test at least once a week and if things were out of wack i would probably test daily. I do think you could get away without it in the first month while cycling but I would at least have something to check the salinity. Just my opinion though as a newbie to salt


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Old 06-02-2014, 03:48 AM   #16
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One last thing about hydrometer vs refractometer. Refractometer is MUCH more accurate. My hydrometer was WAY off. A little extra money but much more accurate and stable


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Old 06-02-2014, 11:11 PM   #17
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I've tried to see if my lfs was giving honest tests, gave them some water to test, and asked if my ammonia was high, was told I need a new and much better filter, had a few words with the owner, and don't shop there any more, I had brought in distilled water to be tested!

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Nice !!!! I like how you think. ( must be a Ct thing, lol )
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Old 06-03-2014, 03:58 AM   #18
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I believe it is my friend 😄

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Old 06-03-2014, 10:19 PM   #19
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i believe it is my friend 😄

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😂😜👍😳👏😄🐠🎉
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