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Old 03-20-2006, 02:25 PM   #21
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I'd drop the flame scallop. Need lots of supplemental feeding. I'm sure someone out there may offer a success story, but I've never run across anyone who's had long term luck. It is a beautiful thing though.

Check on the brittle or serpent stars for reef safe stars.
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Old 03-20-2006, 03:04 PM   #22
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what do you need for a quarantine tank?? so i cant get the brittle( ive also been thinking about bahama, blue linkia, or serphant star)starfish till after ive had the aquarium for 6 months? i didnt really think they were safe because there was a website that said they like to mess with other invertibrates. it says that since the starfish are usually out at night they like prealty of caves and other places to hide but since im only getting 25 lbs of live rock would i be able to make everything they need? and i got these red thai crabs that i have in fresh water they cant live in salt water can they? what kind of lighting would you recommend because after everything is established i would like to get 2 or 3 types of anonymefor the clownfish. is there any king of angel fish that would live good with the stuff i'm gonna get?o i was reading about the polyps and there arm things are just a bunch of worms?(really confused) and the corals, if i get one coral will it be able to reproduce, and what kind of suplements if any will i need for the corals i have listed?

thanks!
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Old 03-20-2006, 03:37 PM   #23
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If you could space in-between your questions it would be easier to read.

Brittle Star fish would be fine and would not mess with your other fish/inverts and 25 lbs of lr is not enough for bio-filtration (need closer to 70) but would provide enough for a home for it. You could get it sooner but you will have better results if you wait a couple of months for your tank to fully stabilize.

Again I’d read the articles I linked to regarding Aquarium Lighting since it would be much more in-depth. Basically you are looking for PC lighting of around 260W for what you have listed so far. MH lighting would provide a greater selection of corals and inverts and is probably going to be needed for that Anemone you want. (which you should also wait about a year to get)

As far as supplements go very few if any are needed and doing 10% pwc each week should provide everything your tank needs. Any supplements added to a tank should only be done once proper testing is done so it can be monitored closely.
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Old 03-20-2006, 04:20 PM   #24
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ok sorry about that

ive been writing down questions as i read the articles(very helpfull i didnt know they were there)

it says after you have started the ammonia cycle you have to add things slowly but i was planning on buying everything at the same time / at saltwater.com i need to buy at least 80 dollars of stuff each time so do you know of another website that would be better?

Since uncured live rock is cheaper would it be better to cure it myself, but since im just starting i have no clue how to do that besides they say to do it in a trash can...

im planning on buying sand from my LFS and putting in 2 to 3 inches in and just so im understanding everything you have everything in your tank working then you remove your water add water and salt add your sand (dump it in?) then add the live rock?

how much does a cheap ro/di filter go for? because i have realllyyy poor water quality, my family drinks all bottled water...

well i will let you know if i have any other questions

thanks
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Old 03-20-2006, 04:41 PM   #25
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You can buy all your inverts ie crabs/snails and one of the fish on your list at the same time once your cycle is complete and slowly drip acclimate them for 3 hours before adding to the tank. It’s possible to get your shrimp but personally I’d wait a minimum of 2 months before adding for your tank to stabilize a little more.

I’d wait a couple of months before adding any corals or risk loosing $100+

I take it the $80 is spent to get free shipping? You also could buy a couple of other supplies at the same time to get the free shipping like a refractometer

Just about any rock you buy online is going to be “uncured” since it is out of the water for more then a couple of hours to get to your house. The curing article on this site tells you everything you need to know. You can also get 50% of base rock from www.hirocks.com to keep costs down. It serves the same filtration properties but doesn’t look as pretty as having 100% lr.

You want to mix your water and salt 24 hours before adding to the tank in a clean bucket/trashcan with a ph. I added all the sand first and slowly added the water and after a couple of days when the tank cleared up added lr.

A ro/di unit is recommended for removing all of elements from tap water and to make the water as pure as possible.

A lot of people get them from ebay for around $100. Below are the 3 most popular sites:
Filter-Direct-store (seems to be most popular on this site)
The-Aqua-Safe-Pure-Water-Shop
ROfilterDepot

Also airwaterice.com is a good place if you don’t want to deal with ebay.
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Old 03-20-2006, 07:07 PM   #26
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so the base rock is just as effective as the live rock when filtering? when im curing them do i do them together or in separate buckets? and with the power head, i have a power filter. what would i be using the power head for, just moving the water? would you recommend me getting 60 lbs of base rock and 25 of live rock?

how much does a 40 gallon aquarium usually cost because i still need to get one( my tanks now are to small)

im still in school so i wont be able to afford the ro/di fliter till the summer when i can get a job but will aquarium water conditioner work till then?

with the ivertibrates, what if there isnt enough for them to eat( i read emeralds eat coral when they are hungry?) they need algae sheets added right? and how do i put them into the tank to the crabs and hermits can get to them?(with the inverts im getting i wont need a filter will i, or is filtering what a skimmer does?)
looking back at my invertibrates could you tell me what kind i should get and how many of each

a refractometer measures salinity doesnt it? what should my desired salanity be? 1.023?

i will plan on starting with one clown fish and after how long can i get more(1 more clown fish and possibly a type of angle?)

well thats all i can think of thanks
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Old 03-20-2006, 08:10 PM   #27
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If you are cycling your tank with live rock, you don't need to cure them in buckets or a trash can. That advice only applies to people who are curing live rock for an aquarium that already has fish and invertebrates in it. You can place your uncured live rock directly into an aquarium with no fish or invertebrates, and use it to cycle.

Base rock will eventually be just as effective as live rock, yes, but you will need some live rock to seed it.

Most grocery stores/Wal-mart have Reverse Osmosis machines. This can be a pain in the neck to transport water like this, but I would recommend it. Especially if you find nitrates in your tap water, I would recommend using reverse osmosis water, even if you have to drag it from a local store, until you get your RO/DI unit. I tried the whole tap water with conditioner for a while, and had massive algae blooms that I could never get under control. Not to mention, your skimmer may pull additives that you put in the tank out!

Yes, a refractometer measures salinity. As far as your desired, salinity, you have a range to choose from...the most important thing is not a specific number, but that whatever number you pick, you keep constant! If you choose 1.021, keep it steady there. If you choose 1.023, keep it steady. Fish can adapt to many levels of salinity, what they cannot handle is rapid or frequent swings.

Actually, in a 40 gallon tank, if you use live rock to cycle the tank, you could probably start with 2 small clownfish. After that, I would begin using your quarantine tank to quarantine for 3 to 4 weeks. If after you wait 3 to 4 weeks, you test your water, and the ammonia and nitrite are 0, and your nitrate is under control, you could then add another fish.

Paul
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46 Gallon (Saltwater): 60 pounds Lalo Live Rock, 60 pounds aragonite sand, 1 Coral Beauty Angelfish, 1 Peppermint Shrimp, 1 Mushroom Coral, 1 Emerald Crab, various snails and hermit crabs.

10 Gallon (Saltwater quarantine):
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Old 03-20-2006, 08:15 PM   #28
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Don't worry about the RO/DI unless your water has stuff that can't be corrected with Tap water conditioner.. RO/DI isn't gospel like most would like to preach.. Nor should it discourage anyone from getting into saltwater.. People can have algae problems with RO/DI or without it..

No matter what people may say.. It is not needed to have a successful aquarium.
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Old 03-20-2006, 08:31 PM   #29
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Quote:
Don't worry about the RO/DI unless your water has stuff that can't be corrected with Tap water conditioner
Sorry, but I have to disagree. An RO/DI unit can eliminate stuff from the water that no "water conditioner" will. It is the recommended standard for the hobby. If you can get by without it that is great. However, almost anyone here will tell you it is essential for the long-term health of your tank. this does not mean you have to our and by a $100 RO/DI unit. You can get RO/DI watter at most LFS or grocery/wal-mat stores. It is just much easier to have one at home.
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Old 03-20-2006, 08:39 PM   #30
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You are now involved in the RO/DI versus tap debate, Marty.. This debate can get pretty intense, so I'll do my best to try to give you a rounded opinion. I am personally biased towards RO/DI, but as gotz_potential says, there is no Aquarium Bible that commands you to use it.

I would illustrate it this way: Many people enjoy owning Alaskan Husky dogs. Now, some people, when temperatures drop to subzero temperatures with wind chills outdoors, will say, "It's freezing out there! I'm taking my Husky inside so he doesn't have to deal with those conditions." Other people will say, "He's an Alaskan Husky. He can handle it," and will leave him outside year round. Neither of these ideas is necessarily wrong. A dog would probably rather be inside, but he will probably be OK outside as well.

So what you need to ask yourself is this: Am I the kind of fish owner who says, "I'd like my fish to have the cleanest water possible, devoid of anything that could cause a problem for them," or are you more like the one who says, "Fish are tough. It's true there is garbage in tap water, but they can handle it." Neither of these ideas is wrong in itself. You need to look at the pros and cons of both methods, and decide for yourself which one is best for you.

Having said that, I will tell you that as a new aquarist, you WILL run into problems here and there. I don't know anyone, on this forum or off, who has never made a mistake or had something unexpected come up. There WILL be times when something strange is happening in your tank, and you will be at a loss to know what's going on. When that happens, there are usually many variables to look at to diagnose the problem you are experiencing. This forum is invaluable for that. I guarantee you one of the questions you will get is what kind of water you are using. By using reverse osmosis water, you will be removing a variable from your aquarium. You will know that if something strange happens, there is nothing mysterious coming from your water supply. I have chosen to use it for consistency in quality, not because you will assuredly fail without it.

I hope I have given you a balanced viewpoint, pros and cons...I didn't give you a lot of pros for tap water, but I couldn't think of any pros other than that it is free...
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38 Gallon (Freshwater): 1 Green Swordtail, 3 Yo-Yo Loaches, 1 Clown Pleco, 1 Blue Gourami, 4 Otocinclus, 7 Cherry Barbs.

46 Gallon (Saltwater): 60 pounds Lalo Live Rock, 60 pounds aragonite sand, 1 Coral Beauty Angelfish, 1 Peppermint Shrimp, 1 Mushroom Coral, 1 Emerald Crab, various snails and hermit crabs.

10 Gallon (Saltwater quarantine):
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