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Old 04-16-2005, 12:33 AM   #11
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In this case its not the phosphates but the type of salts in the water. Although the pH of your water may be 7 if there are natural buffers in the water it will be harder to change the pH. DI removes the ions that buffer the water so its easier to change the pH and maintain.
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Old 04-16-2005, 12:24 PM   #12
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i checked it last night and it is now at 8.1, so it appears to be rising.
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50 Gallon Oceanic: 2 maxijet 1200's, 2 150 watt visitherm heaters, BakPak II Skimmer with PS & BT, Coralife Lunar 2X65 watt Power Compacts

Filtration: 50lbs LR.com, 60lbs sand

Swimmers: 2 O. Clowns, Yellow Watchman, Firefish, Yellow Tang, Dottyback.

Clean-Up: Several snail & hermits, Skunk Cleaner, 2 Peps.

Corals: 2 zoo colonies, yellow polyps, star polyps
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Old 04-16-2005, 04:16 PM   #13
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Problem solved. shopping time.
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Old 04-17-2005, 07:52 AM   #14
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watch for them nitrates..
personally i think they should rise more yet ..after a cycle...
and can be hard to get rid off...
above 20ppm starts to cause fish stress
after my cycle i need a nitrate remover in my filter ..seemed to work..
although some people do say nitrates r not a problem..
but it IS a indication of overall poor water quality..
good luck and let us know how u go on with your clowns..
pics if possible
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Old 04-18-2005, 08:27 PM   #15
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Did u add the fish yet..... IMO 20 ppm is not bad in a FO system, in a reef then there can be issues. Keep us posted
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Old 04-18-2005, 11:28 PM   #16
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Yes, i added the fish at the end of last week, and all is well, my ammonia and nitrite are at 0, p 8.1, and nitrate is around 15. I am preparing for my water change as we speak, i added six gallons to a ten gallon tank, added the salt and put a heater in, i will change it tommorow. Is this sufficient for a water change, i have a 50 gallon tank, but only 40 gallons is actually in the tank after displacement. How often do you think i should do water changes, i heard most people say 2-4 weeks. TIA
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50 Gallon Oceanic: 2 maxijet 1200's, 2 150 watt visitherm heaters, BakPak II Skimmer with PS & BT, Coralife Lunar 2X65 watt Power Compacts

Filtration: 50lbs LR.com, 60lbs sand

Swimmers: 2 O. Clowns, Yellow Watchman, Firefish, Yellow Tang, Dottyback.

Clean-Up: Several snail & hermits, Skunk Cleaner, 2 Peps.

Corals: 2 zoo colonies, yellow polyps, star polyps
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Old 04-18-2005, 11:31 PM   #17
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in addition to badfish's post....for a water change, can i just change the water in my sump and will that be the same thing??
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50 Gal. Oceanic Tank w/ Stand
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Argonite playsand(about 4-5" deep)
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30lbs. of base rock from hirocks.com
70lbs lr from lr.com-30 keys 10 gulf
mag drive 7 pump
ro water - about 60 gal w/ sump
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Old 04-19-2005, 01:18 PM   #18
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Confused about your question goodfish. Changing the water in the sump is changing the water in the tank since they are connected. When I change water, I use the sump so there is less stress on the fish.
This is probably obvious but I marked the sump with a marker so that when I siphon out the water, I know how much water to remove. That way I dont have to use buckets and measure. I have a full line (determined by how much space I need in sump when power goes out so that sump does not over flow) and a water change line, no measuring required
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Old 04-19-2005, 03:51 PM   #19
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okay bieng confused still helped me out thnks
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50 Gal. Oceanic Tank w/ Stand
2 MJ-1200
2 Visa-therm heaters
Argonite playsand(about 4-5" deep)
Wet/Dry filter with lr rubble
30lbs. of base rock from hirocks.com
70lbs lr from lr.com-30 keys 10 gulf
mag drive 7 pump
ro water - about 60 gal w/ sump
clean up crew....nearing the end of cycle
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Old 04-19-2005, 08:08 PM   #20
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6 is fine if your doing smaller amounts then i would say you may need to do them every 2-3 weeks depending on your nitrate readings.
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7/03-55 FOWLR 60lb LR, 50 lb SD sand 2x40 NO strip light, Reef Devil/sump, Fuge

TANK PICS http://www.aquariumadvice.com/viewtopic.php?t=98202
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