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Old 06-21-2005, 08:14 AM   #11
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Quote:
Do these egg crates come to fit my tank (24X48) or do I have to cut it to fit.
spinman, I had to cut the egg crate to fit. It's really not hard to do at all. I think I might even have used scissors to do it.
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Currently under construction:
90 Gallon SWFOWLR
Marineland Sedona stand and canopy
80 pounds of aragonite sand, 20 pounds live sand
MagDrive 7 pump
SeaLife protein skimmer
VisiTherm 250Watt heater

List of possible fish:
2 Ocellaris Clownfish
1 Royal Gramma Basslet
3 Neon Blue Gobies
1 Yellow Eye Tang
Several Blue Reef Chromis
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Old 06-21-2005, 08:27 AM   #12
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You will have to trim it to size, but it is easy to to with some wire cutters or the such (it is made of plastic).
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Mike Jones
32 gallon hex, 34 lbs lr, Prizm protein skimmer, fluval 104, 1 maxi jet 750, 1 maxi jet 1200 ph, current 40w 50/50 pc, 1 NO powerglo 19watt, 1 daylight NO 65w (equiv), two damsels, 1 green brittlestar, 1 peppermint shrimp, turbo snails, red legged hermit crabs, kenyan tree coral, leather coral, pumping xenia, mushroom coral, green star polyps, orange button polyps
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Old 07-08-2005, 09:44 AM   #13
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Since adding the LR 6 days ago, I've seen no real change in the tank. No gunk in the skimmer, no ammonia spike, no funky smells, and no percievable die off. So given this, can this LR really finish cycling my tank?

I get the sense that this LR is pretty fresh.

Question: Should I continue feeding the tank with ammoniom chloride given that the LR is not adding any ammonia to the tank?

Thx

Mike
Cherry Hlll NJ
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Old 07-08-2005, 06:53 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by spinman
Question: Should I continue feeding the tank with ammoniom chloride given that the LR is not adding any ammonia to the tank?
I would switch to an actual food source instead. The ammonia your adding will strictly be for the bacteria's benefit and while that's not a bad thing really, it does nothing for the rest of the tank. If the LR was that fresh with little or no die off, there will also be little or no nutrient in the system to sustain the added life for too long. It also explains why no foul odors or skimmate production, also not a bad thing.

If the bifilter is indeed holding it's own, the added foods should not affect the numbers either.

What are your current readings (actual numbers please) for NH3, NO2 & NO3?

Cheers
Steve
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Old 07-09-2005, 01:07 PM   #15
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Steve,

Here's my numbers as of today,

Temp 77.5
pH 7.8 (trying to get it up w/ Kent buffer)
NH3: 0 (spiked tank w/ amm. chloride 2 days ago @ 1 ppm)
NH2: 2
NH3: 35
SG: 1.022


Question: When you say "feed the tank" with what exactly?

One more question: Do you read yor test vials direcltly against the white background of the test color charts or do you kepp a small space between the chrat and vial? When placed directly on the white background, the vials appear much darker.



Mike
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120 g FOWLR, Pro Clear 200 19 gal. sump (bio balls removed), 50# Walt Smith FiJi LR, 150# reefersrock base, 300# DSB, Iwaki MD 20 return, (2) Rio 600s, (2) Hagen 802s, Amiracle Quad II skimmer, (2) Coralife 4 X 65s, 2 Lebo moonlights, (2) 120 mm vent. fans,

(2) Perc. Clowns, (1) Yellow Tang, (1) cleaner shrimp, (2) Henis, pending: Foxace Lo, Flame Angel, blue legs, scarlets, 4 emerald crabs, nassarius snails, 50 mexican turbos, (1) good bankruptcy attorney when this hobby blows out of control!
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Old 07-09-2005, 01:10 PM   #16
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sorry, I meant NO2 and NO3 for 2 and 35 respectively.

Mike
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120 g FOWLR, Pro Clear 200 19 gal. sump (bio balls removed), 50# Walt Smith FiJi LR, 150# reefersrock base, 300# DSB, Iwaki MD 20 return, (2) Rio 600s, (2) Hagen 802s, Amiracle Quad II skimmer, (2) Coralife 4 X 65s, 2 Lebo moonlights, (2) 120 mm vent. fans,

(2) Perc. Clowns, (1) Yellow Tang, (1) cleaner shrimp, (2) Henis, pending: Foxace Lo, Flame Angel, blue legs, scarlets, 4 emerald crabs, nassarius snails, 50 mexican turbos, (1) good bankruptcy attorney when this hobby blows out of control!
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Old 07-09-2005, 03:45 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by spinman
Steve,

Here's my numbers as of today,

Temp 77.5
pH 7.8 (trying to get it up w/ Kent buffer)
NH3: 0 (spiked tank w/ amm. chloride 2 days ago @ 1 ppm)
NH2: 2
NH3: 35
SG: 1.022
Couple of points here. Be wary trying to fix pH issues with chemicals and be absolutley sure you are monitoring alkalinity in the process. Quite often in trying to fix one thing, you create an additional problem with alk/Ca. If the alk is within NSW values, chemicals aren't your issue, CO2/wastes/acids are. Don't forget this is a cycling tank so chemistry will quite often be quite wonky throughout the process. You'd do more to increase aeration/water flow and ensure the tank is getting proper gas exchange (breathing) than chemical additions.

Bring the temp up another 2 points as well as the salinity to 1.025ish if using a hydrometer, 35 ppt if a refractometer. This will also help your chemistry to some degree.

As far as your nitrogen readings, it looks fine. If the ammonia is being processed that quickly, the first stage is done, you just need the nitrobacters to gain in number/strength to deal with the NO2. Natural NO3 reduction will take months if not longer so you will need to deal with that using water changes. For now though just let it cycle. You seem to be progressing nicely.


Quote:
Question: When you say "feed the tank" with what exactly?
Feed it as if there where fish in the tank. The added foods will rot, create ammonia and feed the bacteria the same as your ammonia addition 'cept without the nasty chloride. This will help in preserving the life (as well as feed it) while the tank finishes it's cycle.

Quote:
One more question: Do you read yor test vials direcltly against the white background of the test color charts or do you kepp a small space between the chrat and vial? When placed directly on the white background, the vials appear much darker.
I absolutely abhore color match kits. Partial color blindness

Typically I place the vial beside the color chart against the white background. Also be sure you use natural lighting. Overhead/ambient light can often skew the colors to some degree, especially fluorescent.

Cheers
Steve
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Old 07-09-2005, 07:14 PM   #18
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As far as food, can you specify what to throw in the tank? Can I get away with something out of my fridge (veggies, etc.) or should I go to the LFS and pick up something.

As far as my tank getting gas exchange, I can't see it being low, with the wet dry going, skimmer, 2 powerheads (200 gph each) and the return pump (500 gph) and the egg crate top.

Mike
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120 g FOWLR, Pro Clear 200 19 gal. sump (bio balls removed), 50# Walt Smith FiJi LR, 150# reefersrock base, 300# DSB, Iwaki MD 20 return, (2) Rio 600s, (2) Hagen 802s, Amiracle Quad II skimmer, (2) Coralife 4 X 65s, 2 Lebo moonlights, (2) 120 mm vent. fans,

(2) Perc. Clowns, (1) Yellow Tang, (1) cleaner shrimp, (2) Henis, pending: Foxace Lo, Flame Angel, blue legs, scarlets, 4 emerald crabs, nassarius snails, 50 mexican turbos, (1) good bankruptcy attorney when this hobby blows out of control!
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Old 07-11-2005, 01:53 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by spinman
As far as food, can you specify what to throw in the tank? Can I get away with something out of my fridge (veggies, etc.) or should I go to the LFS and pick up something.
Preferabley something meaty, sinking pellets are good or even cheap frozen brine. Nothing fancy. I wouldn't use veggies, some cause sulphides to be released when they rot.

Quote:
As far as my tank getting gas exchange, I can't see it being low, with the wet dry going, skimmer, 2 powerheads (200 gph each) and the return pump (500 gph) and the egg crate top.
I can, 820 GPH on a 120 is on the low side. The Iwaki MD20RLT is 420 GPH @ 4' head. You'd be suprised how easily pH is affected by lower flow/poor aeration. Couple that with a cycling tank (acids/wastes) and you're a prime candidate. More often than not it's easily corrected by opening a window and adding some additional suface aggitation. The skimmer adds nothing in the way of water flow or aeration.

Cheers
Steve
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