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Old 06-19-2005, 12:16 PM   #1
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Is my cycle ruined?

All,

Just wondering what my latest reading may mean. To recap, I used Turbostart a couple weeks ago to start the cycle along with ammoniam chloride to spike the tank.

Yesterday, I swapped out the CC in lieu of a DSB.

Here are my readings so far:

key: nc = not checked
Date NH4/NO2/NO3
6/4 spiked tank with 5 grams of am. chl.
6/4 5/0/0
6/5 .25/.5/0
6/6 .25/0/20
6/7 0/0/20
6/8 0/0/10
spiked tank w/ 1 gram am. chl
6/10 0/0/nc
6/11 spiked tank with 1 gram am. chl.
6/12 1/nc/nc
6/14 0/.5/20
spiked tank with 1 gram am. chl.
6/18 .25/2/20
6/19 0/5/40

Questions:

1) Should I do something about the rising NO2?
2) Is a PWC in order?
3) Seeing as I'm not ready to stock this tank, how often should I spike with am. chl. to continue feeding the bacteria.

Thx

Mike
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Old 06-19-2005, 04:12 PM   #2
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Re: Is my cycle ruined?

What is in the tank aside from the sand?

Quote:
Originally Posted by spinman
1) Should I do something about the rising NO2?
No, it is part of the cycling process. The rise and subsequent fall as time passes means the nitrobacters needed for converting it to nitrogen are growing.

Quote:
2) Is a PWC in order?
Not unless there's something living in the tank, which a hope there isn't.

Quote:
3) Seeing as I'm not ready to stock this tank, how often should I spike with am. chl. to continue feeding the bacteria.
You can discontinue the ammonia use once the tank has cycled, ie.. ammonia and nitrites are being properly converted (undetectable) to their less harmful form (NO3) without your intervention. Just be mindful to keep feeding the tank with foods. If you have LR in the tank this will be especially important to feed the bugs and such, not just the bacteria. Keep in mind you are building an effective ecosystem, not just a bacterial base.

Cheers
Steve
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Old 06-19-2005, 04:44 PM   #3
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I second what steve said.

If there isnt some form of ammonia going into the tank all the time all levels will drop to 0 and your tank will be beack to day 1.

So keep adding ammonia (or food as steve suggested) until you put a fish in there.
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Old 06-20-2005, 10:36 AM   #4
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My tank only has the DSB and all my base rock.

I also did a pH test and it was low (`7).

Does cycling drop the pH?

Mike
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Old 06-20-2005, 10:56 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spinman
My tank only has the DSB and all my base rock.
As long as you have a decent amount of base rock, you'll do fine. If you plan on adding LR, try to do that before adding any fish or inverts. If LR will be added in future, be sure it is cured seperately.

Quote:
I also did a pH test and it was low (`7).

Does cycling drop the pH?
Most definately. pH as well as other elements of the chemistry will be quite "wonky" during the cycle process. 7.0 is quite low though, do you have a lid on the tank and is there much circulation/water flow?

Cheers
Steve
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Old 06-20-2005, 12:02 PM   #6
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My tank has a glass lid. As far as water movement, The return pump (Iwaki MDRX 20) shoots the water up along the top of the tank via a black plastic nozzle that hangs off the tank .

Which leads me to antoher question. Is the water flow I have not enough for my tank? I see from your setups that most have powerheads inside the tank. My LFS guy set my tank up with the Iwaki 20 pump so as to not have too much flow in the tank. So I'm a bit confused.

As far as LR, yes I was planning on getting about 50 lbs sometime in the near future. But it seems some suggest curing it your main tank and others suggest curing it a a seperate vessel? There's a local guy who sells Walt Smith LR for about $3.00/pound and I wouldn't have to pay shipping.

Mike
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Old 06-20-2005, 05:43 PM   #7
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The MD 20RX is about 550ish GPH @ 4 ft of head height. If you have no powerheads in the tank, this is extremely low. Depending on the bulkhead diameter of your overflow(s?), you could easily double that. The absolute bare minumum flow is 10x the tank volume or in your case 1200 GPH within the tank itself. Ideally 1800-2000 GPH would be better. You should also loose the solid lid unless your sump has a large footprint. You will end up with continual pH issues even after the cycle.

Quote:
As far as LR, yes I was planning on getting about 50 lbs sometime in the near future. But it seems some suggest curing it your main tank and others suggest curing it a a seperate vessel? There's a local guy who sells Walt Smith LR for about $3.00/pound and I wouldn't have to pay shipping.
If you buy the rock before you aquire any animals it is fine curing in the main tank. Just be aware the smell can be a little less than desirable at times. If you get the LR after aquiring animals, you must cure it seperately.

http://www.aquariumadvice.com/showqu...aq=2&fldAuto=6

Cheers
Steve
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Old 06-21-2005, 06:46 AM   #8
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Steve,

thanks for the advice. My wet dry has a 19 gallon sump. Are you saying I should remove my glass top? If so, what should i put in its place.

Thanks

Mike
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Old 06-21-2005, 07:29 AM   #9
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Spin, you could use eggcrate (a light diffuser from home depot) from HD. I bought mine for about 14 $.
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32 gallon hex, 34 lbs lr, Prizm protein skimmer, fluval 104, 1 maxi jet 750, 1 maxi jet 1200 ph, current 40w 50/50 pc, 1 NO powerglo 19watt, 1 daylight NO 65w (equiv), two damsels, 1 green brittlestar, 1 peppermint shrimp, turbo snails, red legged hermit crabs, kenyan tree coral, leather coral, pumping xenia, mushroom coral, green star polyps, orange button polyps
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Old 06-21-2005, 07:45 AM   #10
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Thanks Mike,

Do these egg crates come to fit my tank (24X48) or do I have to cut it to fit.

Thx

Mike
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120 g FOWLR, Pro Clear 200 19 gal. sump (bio balls removed), 50# Walt Smith FiJi LR, 150# reefersrock base, 300# DSB, Iwaki MD 20 return, (2) Rio 600s, (2) Hagen 802s, Amiracle Quad II skimmer, (2) Coralife 4 X 65s, 2 Lebo moonlights, (2) 120 mm vent. fans,

(2) Perc. Clowns, (1) Yellow Tang, (1) cleaner shrimp, (2) Henis, pending: Foxace Lo, Flame Angel, blue legs, scarlets, 4 emerald crabs, nassarius snails, 50 mexican turbos, (1) good bankruptcy attorney when this hobby blows out of control!
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