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Old 03-13-2003, 05:29 PM   #11
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Anemoneman: for a 90 gal tank ... accoounting for the rock and 4" sand bed... what would you say is the reccomended fish load?

Can you reccomend an online retailer for the LR that doesn't charge like $100 for shipping?
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Old 03-13-2003, 05:48 PM   #12
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$2.99/lb http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merch...L-FIJI-UNCURED

$4/lb farmed LR http://www.tampabaysaltwater.com/price.html

best deal: $2.44/lb delivered if you order over $150 (90lbs is $218) http://www.liveaquaria.com/product/p...=24&pCatId=397
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Old 03-14-2003, 04:39 PM   #13
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do you think a wet/dry (used as a sump) measuring 24L x 16H x 8W will be sufficient for a 90 gal tank....? I will need to put the heater and protein skimmer in the sump
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Old 03-14-2003, 05:15 PM   #14
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If your heater and protein skimmer will fit then it is probably sufficient. The limiting factor would be if it will hold the volume of water that will backflow out of the main tank in the event of a power failure. A 90 gallon is 48"X18" surface area (I think). That would be 3.7 gallons per inch of drainage. Your sump is approx. 13 gallons. If you keep it 2/3 full you will have about 4.5 gallons of extra capacity. It will be close. You could keep it half full and get more capacity that way.
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Old 03-14-2003, 05:26 PM   #15
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Can you explain the backflow issue? I will be getting a Reef Ready tank with the over flow at the top... if the power fails and the pump stops... how will the water get to a level where it will go over the overflow and down into the sump?
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Old 03-14-2003, 06:35 PM   #16
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The water in your main tank (when up and running) will always be at a level above the top of the overflow, right? That's how the water gets into the sump. You will also have a return pipe from your pump that goies over the top and into your main tank. Imagine a power outage, your pump stops so the water will contnue to drain into the sump until it is below the level of the overflow. Additionally the water will siphon back through the pump to the level of the return pipe. You are married to the overflow level - no way to change how much water will drain out of your tank until it reaches this level. The return pipe, on the other hand, can be regulated by you. You simply drill a 1/4" hole in your return pipe just below water level so when the water goes below this hole, air will enter the return pipe and break the siphon.
It's a little confusing to describe without drawing a picture. Did you get it?
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Old 03-16-2003, 04:53 PM   #17
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Almost...i'm just trying to understand ...when you say "You simply drill a 1/4" hole in your return pipe just below water level "... can you explain further? the water level of teh tank or the water level of the sump? oh..

by the way... I bought a used amiracle wet/dry from ebay.. its 24Lx12Wx14H.. I'll of course scrap the bioballs and now I have a multi-chambered sump that cost me 100 bucks instead of a premade sump ( $250) or a wet/dry ($235). All hail EBAY...
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Old 03-16-2003, 08:06 PM   #18
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You drill a hole in the return pipe as it enters the main tank from the pump which pumps water from the sump back to the main tank. The return pipe will enter the main tank and the outlet will be under water. If the pump stops, water will siphon back through this pipe, into the pump, and into the sump. It will continue to siphon until the outlet of the return pipe is out of the water (the level in the main tank has dropped below the outlet of the return pipe). To prevent too much water from siphoning back, drill a 1.4" hole just below the water level (when the pump is running) to allow air to enter the return pipe (before several gallons has siphoned out and exposed the pipe end) which will break the siphon and stop the flow of water into the sump.
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Old 03-17-2003, 10:38 AM   #19
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Okay. I understand better what you are saying. But, if you drill a hole in the pipe, while the pump is working normally, won't water escape the pipe?
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Old 03-17-2003, 11:07 AM   #20
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Quote:
But, if you drill a hole in the pipe, while the pump is working normally, won't water escape the pipe?

Yes, but if you make the hole right below the surface of the water, there is no problem. All the water is getting returned to the tank anyway. When drilling an anti-siphon hole, I usually have the pump running so the waterlevel in the tank is at normal operating levels, then I make a mark on the return line at the water surface. Turn the pmup off, remove the pipe and drill a small hole just below the mark. 99% or more of the water is still going to be returned through the end of the return pipe.
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