Let Algae run its course during cycling?

[Nate C]

On my 3rd week of cycling 80lbs LR, and 40lbs LS in my 90G tank. nh3/nh4 has finally dropped, and of course now my N02/N03 counts are elevated.

It looks like I am about to start a (red) algae bloom. I assume this is a result of the elevated nutrient content of the tank.

Seems silly to me to fight to lower my N02/N03 levels and also fight the algae bloom (which by its course should be depleting my N02/N03 levels...)?

I have zero inverts, zero fish - and am doing zero feeding so the supply of nutrients has been cut off. If I leave the tank alone will it eventually "use up" all the N02/N03 in the tank and die off on its own?

Thanks in advance. -

Nate C

90Gal Live Rock only, in its 3rd week of cycle.

 

[tmcpeek]

It should die dwon on its own. You can put some flake food in the tank to create bacteria to help break it down. It will take time but patience is the key to a successful tank.

 

[Nate C]

Thanks. That's what I was hoping.

"Time is on my side... yes it is."

 

[revhtree]

Ya, the algae is normal towards the end of the cycling process. Congrats!

Just let it run it's course, it will clear up on it's own.

PS. Is the algae a rust color?

 

[Nate C]

Its red... Crimson, or Blood red. Some of my searches revealed a 'dreaded red algae' that I guess can be a real PITA if not controlled.

 

[revhtree]

My best bet would be that it is not red algae. It's probably just the normal stuff I got at the end of my cycle.

It took about 1 to 1 1/2 weeks to go away in my 75g. HTH!

 

[Nate C]

Fingers crossed.

Might post a pic tommorow if I can get one to turn out decent.

 

[Nate C]

Algae (pic added)

Here's a pic -

<Ackck - My apologies to the moderators for the double-pic post. I can't figure out how to remove the 2nd one.>

 

[jmc]

Yes, let it run its course during cycle but be prepared to control it. Looks like you have cyano which is normal but still unwanted. Turbo snails and certain types of hermits (burgundy hermits I think) will eat this stuff but best way to control is RO/DI water. If you already use RO/DI water, check to see that it is removing the PO4 which algaes thrive on. I live in an area where the tap water is very high in PO4 and my 6-stage RO/DI does not remove all of the PO4. Right now I'm using a PO4 sponge to take up the slack but have ordered a 2nd DI membrane for my filter system to try to reduce PO4 completely. Why you ask? Still having red and diatom blooms in month 4.

 

[Atari]

Adding flakes will make it worse.. other than elevated PO4, inadequate water flow will cause cyano to build up in certain areas too. Try moving around your powerheads or even add another one if needed.

 

[revhtree]

Ya, I would go ahead and add some hermits, and snails. They will help your cause.

 

[Atari]

Nooo.. not until the cycle has finished

 

[Nate C]

Thanks to everyone for their replies.

Re: Phosphates, I will need to check into methods of reducing those - I do use an RO unit (no DI) now.

Re: Flakes - haven't added any - I figure there is enough nutrients in there from the 70lbs of uncured tonga live rock as it is.

Re: Water Movement - I run a 1000gph (4100lph) pum in my sump with a HOB overflow on the rear right corner, and a single return head on the rear left corner. I added yesterday a zoomed rotating 228 PH which says its good for 290gph and stuck it to one of the side walls where hopefully it can do some good.


Cycle is still truckin' My n02 levels are slowing dropping but the n03 levels are sky-high - Should I wait until both n02 and n03 are gone before adding hermits/snails, or do I only need to wait until the n02 is gone? ** I am in no big rush and certainly do not wish to torture anything.**

In addition to the Tonga rock, I have an order 'on-hold' with LR.com for 40lbs of keys rock. I must say Mike has been very helpful and accomodating. We are going to wait and only add it to my existing setup when things level off.

Thanks again - This forum has been / continues to be very helpful.

Nate C

 

[Atari]

Once both ammonia and nitrites are undetectable, your cycle is complete. It's quite rare for nitrates to decrease as NNR will take some time to occur, if at all.. and so your foremost method of reducing these will be water changes. 25% or so should be changed at the end of the cycle, and then you're good to start adding the cleanup crew.