Live rock initial cleaning?

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an interest in aquariums or fish keeping!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

dgpilot

Aquarium Advice Apprentice
Joined
Jul 13, 2010
Messages
25
Hey all,

I'm fairly new to salt water aquariums and I'm in the process of cycling my first reef tank (30 gals), fishless. I've done a bunch of research but still have questions..

I have two chunks of cured live rock sitting in my tank now, they weight total about 20-25lbs. I read that the surface is supposed to be cleaned? This is something I have not done, is this necessary? I've already noticed a lot of movement within the rock, some plants peek in and out, little crabs here and there, but the surface is pretty gray.

The tank is at 80F to help the cycle speed and I used salt water from the LFS to fill the tank
 
I would just put that rock in your tank and cycle it with the die off of the rock. 80 degrees isnt going to speed the cycle up. It`s actually a good temp for your tank to be all the time.
 
Thanks! :)

Also where in the process should I start thinking about getting lights? My goal is a reef tank, but I've read that cycling shouldn't involve lights.

I currently have the stock fluorescent lights that came with the 30gal tank (unsure of wattage)

Last but not least, can I get a good protein skimmer recommendation for a 30gal?
 
Check out the octopus brand skimmer. I pretty sure your lights that came with the tank will not be enough for corals. You`ll need to upgrade that.
 
Thanks for your help!

I have one last stupid question. After testing the water today, I got the following results:

pH: 7.9
ammonia: 0
Nitrites: 0
Nitrates: 0

Does this mean the tank has cycled?
Again, I started with 20lbs cured LR, LS and salt water from the LFS (which comes imported from the ocean). Also there are hitchikers on the rocks, including dusters and several crabs
 
Also forgot to mention, salinity is 1.025. Water flow and filter provided with eheim canister 2071 with 250gph flow
 
After cycling, your results should read:

pH: 8.2 (optimum)
Ammonia: 0
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 1>

Read up on the stages of cycling - you should see an ammonia spike, this will drop, then a nitrite spike, this will drop and finally, you'll start seeing nitrate. Ensure the Ammonia and Nitrite are zero (and you have a nitrate reading) before adding livestock.
 
+1 for above. It will be a couple of days before you will see an ammonia raise and then follow through as sharpie stated.
 
Thanks for your help!

I have one last stupid question. After testing the water today, I got the following results:

pH: 7.9
ammonia: 0
Nitrites: 0
Nitrates: 0

Does this mean the tank has cycled?
Again, I started with 20lbs cured LR, LS and salt water from the LFS (which comes imported from the ocean). Also there are hitchikers on the rocks, including dusters and several crabs

If the rock was truly cured, then you're not going to see any die off and your ammonia/nitrite/nitrate numbers will remain at zero with no spikes. You need to give it an ammonia source and see how the tank processes it. Throw in a cocktail shrimp or just some fish food and wait a couple days. If it's cured rock, then you shouldn't see any ammonia or nitrites, and your nitrates should start going up. If so, you're cycled and ready to go. If you see any ammonia or nitrites, then your rock was quite cured all the way or you ended up with more ammonia than you really needed and your tank is building up the required bacteria. In that case, wait out the cycle and when the ammonia and nitrites go back to zero you're good to go.
 
Thank you all for your help, greatly appreciated!

Last night I added some shrimp and other fish food and will wait for the whole cycle to process.

I'll also be purchasing a additive to balance the pH at ~8.2

There is a couple very small hairy crabs in the LR, should I trap it with the glass trick now or later? I also noticed a bigger one about 1/2 inch wide but not hairy eating off the LR.. not sure of his color though, but he seemed dark.
 
Don't bother with the pH or any other parameter till you are sure the tank has cycled. Regular partial water changes are all that you will need to maintain pH and other parameters. I would suggest getting a refractometer to test the SG (salinity). Swing arm devices are inconsistent.

I would remove all crabs. Take them back to the lfs and ask if they'll give you any store credit.
 
Hahaha, store credit for hitchhiking crabs. That's a good one.
 
I'll also be purchasing a additive to balance the pH at ~8.2

No. You don't want to do that. I made that mistake when I started up my tank and it took me a few months to get my water parameters back in line.

Your pH will swing all over the place when you first set up a tank, and definitely if it cycles. Just wait until a month down the road and after a few water changes. Most likely, your pH will stabilize where it wants to be.
 
OK.. so no pH balancing. Phew, I'm glad I posted on here otherwise I would have wasted a lot of time and money.

I asked this one a little while back but I didn't get a response on this one. At what point do I invest in proper lighting, after the cycling?
 
You don't need "proper lighting" during your cycle. After that you will need the best you can afford if you want to grow SPS corals. I know its old school but you will need 4 to 5 watts per gallon. Now days it's all about PAR and I'll let Kurt explain that to you......
 
...Now days it's all about PAR and I'll let Kurt explain that to you......

:confused:

I'm not the lighting expert around here. Shoot... I just have sucky compact fluorescents, remember?! Plus I thought taking the crabs back for store credit was a pretty good idea! Doesn't hurt to ask...
 
PAR (Photosynthetically Active Radiation)
This is used to measure the amount of light that reaches your target element. ie: how strong the light is. it is used now in the hobby to measure the different types of light. MH is the highest and then t-5 to~22" then your other types of light. LED's are gaining in strength and might be good enough in the near future.
PS: the crab idea was cool I must say.....
 
Here's a PAR blurb from Andrew Trevor-Jones

PAR is a measure of the amount of light reaching a surface rather than the output of a lamp. i.e. the number of photons hitting an area over time. As such the PAR of a lamp is undefined.
PAR also treats all photons equally. Photons of a higher shorter wavelength (higher frequency) have higher energy levels than longer
wavelength photons. The differences in energy levels is not taken into consideration with PAR - although a meter may have to deal with it and normalise the readings.
Metal halide lamps are point light sources and so the further you move away from the lamp, the greater area over which the light is spread and so the lower the irradiance. If measuring PAR of a metal halide lamp, you will get different readings at different distances from the exact same lamp. You will only be able to compare the PAR from the different lamps if you are measuring PAR under the exact same conditions - i.e. the exact same distance from the lamp with the lamp in the same fitting and reflector. Even with these things being the same, there may be subtle differences in the readings due to aberrations in the glass of the lamps.
Another thing to consider is the PAR meter being used. Does it measure all wavelengths equally? The PAR meter I have (from Apogee Instruments) under reads blue light and over reads red light. If you are using a LiCor sensor, this may be less of a problem, but it is worthwhile finding out the spectral sensitivity of the sensor.
Yet another factor to consider is that different brands of lamps will have different output spectra and light output even if they are the same wattage and claimed colour temperature. You may even see differences between lamps of the same brand and same claimed colour temperature. Also,the claimed colour temperatures of lamps is only very approximate and gas discharge lamps don't really simulate theoretical black bodies.
Assuming that you are measuring each lamp under the same conditions and the sensor is not under reading blue light, you should still expect to see less PAR with lamps of the same wattage but with a higher colour temperature because there will be proportionally more photons with higher energy levels. As energy can not be created nor destroyed, the same amount of input energy (the wattage of the lamp) cannot produce more energy and so there will be fewer total photons produced by a lamp that
has more blue light.
If the new lamp looked more blue then it would have had a higher approximate colour temperature. Whether it was 20000K and the originals were 10000K is not going to be easy to measure. If you could measure the spectrum of each lamp, you could compare that to the spectra of theoretical black bodies at various colour temperatures.
I hope this helps.
Andrew Trevor-Jones

Now I recently read that cyano love the yellow-red spectrum, a portion of the spectrum not high in the LED output, so LED's theoritcally help eliminate cyano.

I read that soemwhere and then went to the source study which does seem to state just that.
 
Also forgot to mention, salinity is 1.025. Water flow and filter provided with eheim canister 2071 with 250gph flow

You are going to need more flow. maybe a 2 Koralia 1's or 2's.

I never saw a cycle in my tank. my 50# of LR came from an established tank and was transported in coolers under water. It is possible to start a new tank and not see a cycle.

Just go slow and make sure.
 
Yeah, Get a powerhead or two.

Remove all the filter material from the canister and put LR rubble in it. Or better yet. Sell it and get a sump. But if you can, try to use it to your advantage. Having the other material in it will just cause nitrate issues if not cleaned very very regularly.

As for lighting, Depends on the money you have. You could go T5HO, Get a basic fixture and could grow most things. But if you want clams, anemones and some high like corals like SPS and what not. Then go MH, Or LED.

Imo, LED is expensive to start up, But well worth it in the end. Brighter colours, Cooler, Alot less maintance costs. List just keeps going but you have to make sure you get the right LEDS.
 
Back
Top Bottom