My 55g Reef Buildout

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Hogie

Aquarium Advice Activist
Joined
Aug 18, 2008
Messages
118
This is going to be for my 55 gallon reef build. Mainly a question and log area.

My plan:

  • Wet/Dry Filtration via HOB Overflow to a Self built Sump / Refuge
  • Closed Loop System for Current (with a SWCD)
  • Build a Sump out of Acrylic (or out of a 10-20g if I can fine one cheap enough)
  • Buy a RO/DI system
  • Use 60-75% base rock and 25-40% LR
  • Use MH lights (dont have these spec'ed out yet)
  • Use a Skimmer in the Sump.
Yesterday, I bought the 55 gallon tank I am going to use. It is not RR, so I need to test if it is tempered glass or not. I just got the information on how to do that today from a co-worker, so that will be tested tonight (the nickel/quarter trick).

As for the brands/models I am going to use for my equipment, I do not have that information yet. I am looking at this project taking a month atleast, before I get water in the tank (in a non-leaktest way).

Comments? Suggestions?

Oh, and here is the "first" picture of the build log:

2773418544_e42e7055be_m.jpg
 
Congratulations! It's a good idea to keep a log, it also gives the rest of us fun stuff to read up on.

Can you clue me in on the nickel/quarter trick? I'm not familiar with that one.
 
Can you clue me in on the nickel/quarter trick? I'm not familiar with that one.
Me too...lol. I never heard that one. I heard about using polarized sunglasses tho.
Generally, and I mean GENERALLY, only the bottom of most tanks are tempered. ReefReady tank are drilled then the bottom is tempered. I would not drill the bottom of any glass tank, if that was your plan. I drilled the side of my 55g sump and had no problems.
 
Looking forward to seeing how this progresses as I hope to turn my 55g into SW in the next year or so.

To my eye, though, that almost looks like a 60g tank. They have the same footprint as a 55g but are a little taller. What are the dimensions of your tank?
 
For the couple that asked the nickel/quarter test, this comes directly from a co-worker which worked in a glass shop that his father owns for years.

If you set the aquarium so you can place a nickel on it, then tap it, it will make a sound. A dull thud type sound will be non-tempered glass. A higher pitched sound is a tempered glass sound. If you have any pyrex in your kitchen (glassware for the oven is usually what it is), then that is tempered, and you can test it with that to get the sound.

My plan for drilling the back (if I can) is so I can put a closed loop system with 3 holes (1 intake, 2 outputs), and have a 4th for the return from the sump/refuge.

I have other ways for the closed loop, but I would want it this way for the cleanest look.

As for the size of the tank, I will measure it when I get home (I am still at the office for another hour or more).
 
Measurements: 48" wide x 13" deep x 21" Tall.

The Width/Length are outside edge to outside edge. The Tall is from bottom to where the top lip is on the top frame.

As for the test, it sounds completely different than the 2 pyrex dishes I just tested with.
 
Thats a 55G, here are common sizes:
http://alysta.com/books/fishtank.htm

If you just looking for a 10G tank, Walmart has them everyday for $10. Otherwise in some areas Petco may be doing the $1 per gallon only for 20G and 29G tanks from what I've read, but there is no add flyer in my area for this week so I cant confirm that. Last year they did this sale but it was $1 per gallon for up to 55G tanks(all tanks)
 
Thats a 55G, here are common sizes:
Fish Aquarium and Tank  Sizes and Characteristics, starting an aquarium, buying equipment, choosing tanks

If you just looking for a 10G tank, Walmart has them everyday for $10. Otherwise in some areas Petco may be doing the $1 per gallon only for 20G and 29G tanks from what I've read, but there is no add flyer in my area for this week so I cant confirm that. Last year they did this sale but it was $1 per gallon for up to 55G tanks(all tanks)

The stand only has 9 inches between the support posts. I wouldn't be able to fit a normal 10gallon underneath it, however I can build my own "long" sump from acrylic to fit under there as needed.
 
I have been doing some research (The Stock list and tips post is AWESOME) the last couple days, and I have figured out a few of the things I am going to do / use on my setup.

Overflow Box: PF800 Eshopps (This has been purchased)
Skimmer: Coralife Super Skimmer 65
Sump return pump: Mag Drive MD9.5 (should produce about 800gph @ 4ft)
Closed Loop pump: Mag Drive MD5

Substrate: 2 inches deep of Caribsea Aragonite Sand (about 65lbs)
Rock Amount: 1.75lbs per gallon. 25% LR, 75% Base.

Now, for my questions... Are those pumps good pumps? Is that Skimmer worth it, or should I upgrade to something else? Any suggestions on the bulkheads I should buy for the aquarium? I was thinking 3/4th inch Schedule 80 bulkheads for the 4 holes I need.

Anything else that is needed besides:

  • Sump (I am going to attempt build it this or next weekend)
  • Lighting (Going with MH)
  • Salt
  • RO/DI Unit (probably get one off ebay around the 1st)
  • Heaters (I know I am going titanium, just not picked yet).
Thank you for the help!
 
The Mags are known to be great pumps. I donb't have a skimmer, but I hear you get what you pay for. I believe the coralife is a good skimmer.
I love my Finnex titanium heaters:
http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=Finnexheat
I use two in each tank for redundancy.

Which controller do you have on the heaters, or are you using the ultra compact model?

Also, have you guys seen/used the Quiet One pumps? I was recommended those over the Mag Drives for external usage.

How deep in water does an Octopus skimmer have to be? I can't seem to find any "action" shots of a skimmer like that running in a sump.
 
I used a QO pump for many years. Worked great, and was pretty quiet...lol. I used it internally, so dunno if it runs any different externally.

Octo skimmers should be in a constant water level between 8"-10".
This is mine...in about 7 1/2".
sump1_2-08.jpg
 
Hogie, keep in mind that if you drill the 4th hole for your return, what ever height you make that hole is how far down your water will drain if you have a power outage.

I use mag pumps bot internal and external, they are great pumps. I have not complaints.

I would look into upgrading the skimmer. The octopus skimmers are great for the money.

As for your lighting, if you decide to go MH you may want to look at 175w ballast/bulbs. More then that may be too much for a 55g tank.
 
Hogie, keep in mind that if you drill the 4th hole for your return, what ever height you make that hole is how far down your water will drain if you have a power outage.

I was planning it from the way your build out was. The return was going to be right below the overflow line

I use mag pumps bot internal and external, they are great pumps. I have not complaints.

How do you connect them to your system? You have a closed loop, right? Im just worried about them leaking on the external configuration (I plan on having it sitting inside the sump for the return).

I would look into upgrading the skimmer. The octopus skimmers are great for the money.

The Octopus NW-100 would be good for me then? It is rated for 75gallons. What is the difference between the Recirculating and the non-Recirculating Octopus skimmers?

As for your lighting, if you decide to go MH you may want to look at 175w ballast/bulbs. More then that may be too much for a 55g tank.

Thanks. I was going to wait on lighting until after I got everything else running, and the system starting to cycle.
 
The holes I drilled in the 150 were for the closed loop only. The new 120 (post 150 and 120 bottom crack) does not have any holes drilled in it.

I have my return plumbed up and over the top of the tank. Drilling for a return line from your sump can spell disaster.

If you are going to have a closed loop you can easily use the Mag5 externally. Connect the intake of the pump to your center/intake hole and connect the outflow of the pump to your plumbing for the scwd and those to the other two holes. I had mine running like that on my 72g tank for well over a year until something got sucked into my scwd and broke it.
 
I used a QO pump for many years. Worked great, and was pretty quiet...lol. I used it internally, so dunno if it runs any different externally.

Thanks for the information. I might get one of each to see how they go.

Octo skimmers should be in a constant water level between 8"-10".
This is mine...in about 7 1/2".

Thanks for the pic! What is that it is standing on? Is that grating something I can get at HomeDepot/Lowes?
 
Well, I guess it would be better if I dont drill, so I am going to make a HOB return from the sump and a Over the back Closed Loop like Melevsreef.com shows to make them.

I was also just going through the box of goodies that came with the tank, and there appears to be two sets of Ballasts. One for Compact Fluorescent laps (just 1 connector), and one for dual bulbs for some T8 and T12 flourescents. Would the Compact Flourescent be okay until I start adding corals?
 
I would get the NW150. It's only a few $$ more than the 110. The difference between a recirculating and non-recirc is the recirc can be run externally (outside the sump), but also needs a seperate feed pump.

The skimmer is on eggcrate. You can get it at HD or Lowes in the lighting dept.
So when are you gonna cut a ½" off those pvc legs? :p
Wise guy...lol. :uzi:I swear, I measured everything right when I built it.....
 
Another question... If I want to start the cycle in my tank, should I have the sump in place and working, or can that be added later? If I had the closed loop running, would that be enough? I am trying to figure out what exactly I need to purchase first to get the cycle running.
 
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