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Old 02-15-2011, 06:19 AM   #1
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need suggestions on relocating

I have a 36 tank with some live rock, hermit crabs, 2 pepprmint shrimp, fake & false clownfish that surprisinlgy don't not just mind eachother but literally "hang out". Swim together. A 4 stripped damsel, yellow tail demsel (can read more in detail the specs in my AA profile). I just acquired a mature 50g tank that is Not only bigger but it came with a sand bed full of life and another yellowtail damsel, a 10-15g sump with rio pump, remora HOB skimmer korilia head, maxijet head as well as 2x175 watt metal hilides.

I was wondering what the best way to transfer all my rock and livestock to the new tank with the least amount of disruption??? I just took both waters in to my LFS get tested and shockingly the water perimeters weren't too diff, and the girl told me to put fish in buckets with a power head. Remove the rock and SLOWLY place in new tank. Let sit. For awhile for things to settle, acclimate fish than add... of course ths is no easy task but nothing is in this hobby right?

Also the 50 gallon has coral frags and a few other very small corals . I wanted to put a diff lighting fixture that fits perfect on it

I'm away metal hilides are much better than flo. But I have a four bulber fixture with all day lights (gonna change two with blueantic)
Would this be proper for the corols to strive? This is gonna be a reef tank but I will not add any corols of my own expense till I know proper care and have done my homework.... this is my first SW tank (prior experience with brackish water) and know that I can mantian what I have now (which is sooo fun)...

If any suggestions on how to move everything to the new (older) tank id greatly appreciate it. Or if you just have any qestions or concerns about my set up with ideas that could benifit me more would also be appreciated! Thanks!
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Old 02-15-2011, 08:21 AM   #2
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Get your own liquid test kit first of all and stop relying on the lfs for that.

I see no problem adding the rock from the 36g to the 50g tank a few pieces at a time. Again, you want that test kit whilst you're doing that to ensure everything is peachy (no ammonia spikes). Then, I'd acclimate fish and inverts and move them over also.

You already moved the 50g tank? That's where I'd have the biggest concern when all that is disturbed and put back together. Again, the test kit is needed for that move if you haven't done so already.

Welcome to AA by the way !!
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Old 02-15-2011, 01:09 PM   #3
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Awesome... although I trust the staff at my local LFS I do agree I should get BETTER test og my own cause the ones I do have are API 5 in one test strips that don't seem very accerate. Or easy to read... I have an ammonia test where u have to put the chemicals into the water vile, those I believe are the way to go... what would u guys prefere? Yes the tank is already moved to its perminant location. I was scared to disturb everything as well but its been almost a week now and everything seems to have settled. The yellow tail is more active and what not now... I left tank bout quarter full while moving it and put water into a bunch of buckets so I didn't have to make new water.. BUT now the water level is about an inch below desired level...what's the best way to fill it? New water?? Water from existing tank? And I wanted to make the substrate deeper due to certien fish need deep beds. Nothing crazy but ennough for goby or star fish.... please help! Thanks!
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Old 02-15-2011, 01:43 PM   #4
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Fill with fresh water only. The water evaporates and the salt remains. If you fill it with salt water, your making the salinity too high. I'd also invest in a $40(ish) dollar refractometer so you can measure the salinity level. I like mine at about 1.025.

At some point an RO/Di unit to filter your tap water for refills and making SW will be useful with a reef tank. Need to maintain zero phosphates in your tank and the RO/Di unit will help there.
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Old 02-15-2011, 03:20 PM   #5
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Iv been hearing more and more about this reverse osmosis. Its somethinf I'm DEFF. Gonna obtain. Is a hydrometer not the same (or quite as accurate) as the refrecto? How long should I let water sit before adding to tank? And would u prefer prime or tetra aqua safe for the water conditioner? ANY advice is useful and wanted...
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Old 02-15-2011, 03:22 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by austinsdad
Fill with fresh water only. The water evaporates and the salt remains. If you fill it with salt water, your making the salinity too high. I'd also invest in a $40(ish) dollar refractometer so you can measure the salinity level. I like mine at about 1.025.
I have mine at about 1.023
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Old 02-15-2011, 04:44 PM   #7
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A calibrated refractometer (with RO water at zero, by the way) could tell you your 1.023 is actually at 1.026 or 1.020. I've seen it happen.
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Old 02-15-2011, 04:56 PM   #8
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Wow okay thanks for that...
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