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Old 05-21-2004, 12:51 AM   #1
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New 120gal

Hey all...Picked up on a new 120gal acrylic tank today , got some questions about the overflow and new pump I bought.

The guy at my LFS recommended a Mag 18 for my return pump, which I thought was cool but i've been doing some searches about closed loops and found some posts about overflows not keeping up with big pumps.

My overflow hole at the bottom of the tank is 1"id, is this gonna create a problem with sucking the overflow dry?

My current setup is on a 65gal. with a CPR Aquafuge Pro and a Mag 5 for return. I am also worried about the sump in the Aquafuge being sucked dry as well, it only hold about 2gal or so. The fuge does have a bulk head that is not being used, now could I plumb a line from the fuge over the top of a 20gal glass tank for extra sump capacity and use the mag 18 for return?

Also could I just use a ball valve on the return side of the mag 18 to choke it down?

Thanks,
Rich
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Old 05-21-2004, 07:38 AM   #2
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Ball vavle on the return line is the answer. I use one for my MAG-24, works like a charm.
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Old 05-21-2004, 09:31 AM   #3
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I'm gonna do a test run of the tank in my drive way sometime today when I finish the stand. The tank has a built in overflow, should I just fill the tank all the way, turn the pump on and adjust the ball valve?

What should the water level be in the overflow compared to the tank level?

Is the idea of plumbing a line from the fuge bulkhead over the top of a sump(Rubbermaid tub) a good idea?

Thanks,
Rich
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Old 05-21-2004, 02:25 PM   #4
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Quote:
Also could I just use a ball valve on the return side of the mag 18 to choke it down?
Yes, you can use a ball valve on your return line, however I would suggest the following:
Plumb a T above the return pump but still submerged in the sump. This way when you crank down your ball valve your pump will feel no restriction and extend its lifespan.
As far as the overflow goes, I keep a ball valve on my overflow as well to crank it back just a hair to keep the toilet noise down. I plan on upgrading to a Duros standpipe when I get the drive to build one. The goal for your overflow is to be about 1/4" below the waterline and to ensure that water is "falling" into the overflow. If water does not pour into the overflow you will not remove built up DOM at the surface.
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Old 05-21-2004, 07:49 PM   #5
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Ok, got the stand done and the tank mounted for a trial run. After filling the tank I turned on the pump with the ball valve wide open everything is working fine. The level in my overflow is low about 4" from the bottom but the pump is not sucking it dry. I tried choking the pump down and it just slowed everything down and the level stayed the same. I tried adding water to the overflow and it just sucked it down.

Its been running for about 45min and the water levels stay the same, should I put a ball valve on the overflow or is this normal with a biult in overflow? And everything will be ok.

Also my return uses a Lock-Line outlet in the tank, should I drill a hole in it for a siphon break?

Thanks,
Rich
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Old 05-22-2004, 06:42 AM   #6
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I don't have a built in overflow, my tank is drilled, but when I talked to the manufacturer of the tank he said the the overflow will drain as fast as water is pumped in. I think if the water levels are stable you should be good to go I would put a ball valve on the overflow for future maintenance, but leave it open for now. I don't have any experience with line locks, but when the system is running, turn off the pump and if you get too much water leaving the tank and entering the sump I would drill a hole in the return line where you want the water level to remain.
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