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Old 04-12-2006, 12:02 AM   #11
steve-s
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The 250 MH will work fine for that depth depending on elevation height above the water line. If it's about 8" or so your fine. The problem I see here is the tank length. A 165w VHO is 72", so with that kind of tank length, you need 3 MH fixtures, not 2. MH only covers a 2x2 foot area so you're ending up with dim spots.

FWIW, bulb burn life and spectrum life are two completely different animals. PC's last about 9-10 months. VHO 11-12 months and MH about 12-14 months. It really depends on the length of time each is run for the most part.

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Steve
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Old 04-14-2006, 12:18 AM   #12
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there is a fixture for another MH in the ctr., so maybe I'll take a look and see if that is an option. Otherwise I'm assuming I can put corals only on the 2' on each edge. the bulp is about a foot in on each end, so I should have 2' on each side of the 6' tank with coverage I think...

I don't understand completely here why low light or low color spectrum would cause algae. I thought too much light would cause algae?? I could understand slow coral growth, but I don't understand how that would cause algae. can someone please explain this? how low bulp illumination and/or lower spectrum (K) causes algae. thanks.
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Old 04-14-2006, 01:31 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brenden
Quote:
How long they last (ie burn out) and how long before they should be replaced are two different things
Definitely
agree with this.. I like to push the limits on the bulbs but they do need to be repalced on a regular basis. 6-8 months on the VHO is what I like. I know when it time when I start to get some cyno and my corals dont' POP in the after noon. This is one area wher you can't cut corners if you want NICE corals. In a FOWLR tank its not a big deal..
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Old 04-14-2006, 11:56 PM   #14
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I guess I do have 3 MH (250's). the switch was broken on the middle one and after I replaced that it worked fine. I'll replace the 3 MH's right off the bat as everyone suggests here. the ballast has 2 outlets and is rather large. can I use any 250 MH bulb in these and what do you all suggest for both brand and (K).

the super antinics are totally for show, correct? if that is the case, I think I'll not replace those straight away and wait for them to burn out.

thanks.
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Old 04-15-2006, 02:35 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Howdy
the super antinics are totally for show, correct? if that is the case, I think I'll not replace those straight away and wait for them to burn out.
For the most part yes, if MH is the main lighting scheme. Really depends on the light demanding animals you keep. Some LPS type corals will appreciate the proper actinic light and there may be some algae issues if the bulbs get too old. If I leave my actinics too long I know there is some sort of shift that some animals do not like because my anemone begins to move. Once the actinics are replaced, the movement stops. If this is primarily an SPS tank, no worries but I still wouldn't leave them until they burn out.

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Old 04-19-2006, 01:56 AM   #16
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thanks for the info. everyone...

I've been thinking more about this while I cycle my live rock and get the tank cleaned up....

$300 for bulbs every 9 mos. seems a bit extreme for me since this is my first salt water tank.

I'm thinking of doing live rock only now and not using the MH lights at all. I'm worried about algae since I'm new to this as well. I was thinking instead to use only the two 72" VHO's. If I do this, what would you all recommend for the VHO bulbs for a live rock and fish tank? I'm assuming that a live rock fish tank doesn't need any lights, except for show.. is that right?

Can I still do some coral with this lighting (that should be 320 Watt for a 125 gal. tank)? if so, which corals. I could much more easily justify changing out $80 of lights each year and getting lower light corals.
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Old 04-19-2006, 10:30 PM   #17
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What's the depth of the tank?

2x160w VHO would do fine for coralline and such and a fair amount of softy species but research any LPS well before prurchasing.

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Old 04-22-2006, 01:59 AM   #18
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tank depth is 22"

as far as the lights. I keep going back and forth on this. If I stick with the VHO's only, which bulbs would you get for it? what about doing 1 or 2 MH's and strategically placing the coral that needs higher light??

just an update on the overall project. I followed the advice above on the live rock. I ordered 90 lbs. from live aquaria that has been curing now for over a week. it came a day earlier than what they said and looks good. some die off and I think that is normal from what I've heard. ammonia is still at 8 ppm and it has been about 10 days with 1 water change. does that sound right?

I also ordered 120 lbs. from hirocks. 60 lbs. I think it was of the large rock and 60 of the rubble (mainly for the wet/dry filter). a full 7 days after the order, no response at all. I emailed them and they responded with a shipping number. The shipping number showed that the shipment request had just been placed, so I think they may had forgotton about me until I emailed them. 10 days and still no rock, so not overly impressive but hopefully I do get it. I'll post about how it looks. I've also ordered numerous things through DrsFostersmith.com and everything has came very quickly and prices are very good as compared to what they charge locally.

added the gfci and grounding probe and a bunch of other goodies that were suggested in the article referenced above. I see now why they say this is an expensive hobby! Finally getting close to getting the sand in and filling the tank.
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Old 04-22-2006, 08:54 AM   #19
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If you want to keep more of the life on the lr I’d do more pwc while curing to keep the nh3 below 3 ppm.

Hirocks always takes awhile to ship but usually it's worth it.
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