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Old 06-17-2008, 12:35 PM   #11
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All, thanks again. Let me answer a couple of your questions.
1) Roka - I was going to purchase a refractometer because my book recommended it. However the marine place I purchased everything at said that my liquid test kit is good enough -- since I was going to bring my water samples there every month or so.
2) Roka - Thank you VERY much for identifying each of my pics!
3) Kurt - as for the water, I was going to just add tap and then salt / chemicals but the place I purchased everything from said that I should by their water (imagine that LOL) that is already prepared with all additives and I don't need to do anything. Not sure what that means but they came in 3 gallon jugs that were labeled "red sea".

Oh, the place I bought everything at is Untitled Document -- not the best website though. Everyone there was very friendly... could be cause I overpaid on everything!

On my way home tonight I will pick up 2 raw shrimps and drop them in. Then on Thur I am going to pick up 10-15 more pounds of live rock.
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Old 06-17-2008, 12:36 PM   #12
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Web site of aquarium didn't come out on last reply. it's www .marinewarehouse .biz
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Old 06-17-2008, 01:37 PM   #13
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I think you will soon figure out it is much more cost effective to premix your own water. I keep a 32G bucket on wheels, with a ph and heater constantly running for PWCs. It is best to premix for at least 24 hours. This will allow you to get the PWC water the same temp and salinity and pH as your tank's.
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Old 06-17-2008, 02:11 PM   #14
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I agree with Roka, also you will want to avoid using straight tap water for your tank. Check out ebay for an RO/DI unit. You should be able to get a good one for around $150 and believe me it will save you a LOT of headache later. As Kurt mentioned the water in your tank is one of the more important parts of your system you want it to be as near to perfect as you can get it. An RO/DI filter will help you out there. It's always a good idea to mix your own SW, you know what is in it, how well it was mixed how long it's been sitting and you will have the ability to mix some incase of an emergency.
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Old 06-17-2008, 02:43 PM   #15
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I can't begin to tell you how important both a RODI unit and a refractometer are.
A refractometer tell you the SG of your tank water and your PWC water (teh partcial water change you do weekly). There is no liquid test for that.
You need to test your water at least weekly for the first year. That's why it's so important to have quality test kits on hand.
Should you ever have a problem and and post a question here the first questions will be:
Please post the following info:
SG:
Temp:
pH:
Ammonia:
Nitrate:
Nitrite:
Calcium:
Alkalinity:
Tank Size:
Fish:
Inverts:
Other Corals:
Lighting:
Filtration:

Do you add any chemicals to the tank? (ie. Buffers or Supplements)
What do you feed the tank? (Frozen, Flake or Pellet) How often do you feed?
What kind of Salt Mix do you use? Do you let it sit for 24hrs with a powerhead and heater to airate and mix fully?
Do you use RO/DI water? How do you Top Off evaporated water?

The more information you can provide the faster we can formulate an opinion on what the problem and cure are.

Take your time and all should be fine.

Good luck.
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Old 06-17-2008, 07:27 PM   #16
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Stupid question. When putting the raw shrimp in for "cycling" - do I leave the shell on it or peel it off?
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Old 06-17-2008, 07:36 PM   #17
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I left mine on. Some folks will put it in a micron bag so they cane remove it easier. I leave mine in for when I add my clean up crew.
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Old 06-17-2008, 08:46 PM   #18
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Whew - what would I do without this website! I am learning so much from you guys, and love the links you have on your postings.

Question - My tank the first day was at 98.7degree. Today it has been at 80.7degree's. I have a nice submersible Heater but have NOT installed it due to haven't needed it. Also it has a small space in between chambers in the back of the tank for the heater but it does not face the glass - so i have been debating wether to use this or put it in the front tank portion.

Also, I have a return "Y" nozzle that circulates in the tank. Should I install the Hydor Koralia 400gph circ pump I bought or am I good with Y nozzle (i'm thinking only time will tell).

Thanks.
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Old 06-18-2008, 08:05 AM   #19
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The ammount of flow you need in your tank depends on what you want to do with it. If you are wanting to just have a few fish then the koralia isn't that important. If you are going for a reef tank then you are going to need more flow.
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Old 06-18-2008, 11:41 AM   #20
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Also a tank needs to have a stable temperature. Anywhere from 75 -80 is fine but the temp should be stable to within +/- 1 degree. I keep my tank at 79 degrees. It ranges from 78.9 to 79.8.

If you can't keep the temp down you may need to add a chiller. I make sure my ac is on whenever the outside goes above 75.
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