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Old 07-03-2008, 11:33 AM   #71
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thanks for the reply's and comments. I purchased my LR from my local LFS "tampa bay marine".

More questions:

Is it normal for a submersible heater to turn on and off if you bang it against the wall of aquarium (not hard)... I'm hoping so and thinking yes it is normal. I'm asking because I want to make sure I don't have a defective one.
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Old 07-07-2008, 08:04 PM   #72
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Just an update. Hope everyone had a great 4th!

Temp avg 76.5 - 80.0
PH 8
Ammonia 0
Nitrite 0
Nitrate 20 (can never get lower than that. Even after 20% water change and cleaning all filters.
KH 161.1

Think i'm going to go shopping for some Coral / Anemone this weekend!
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Old 07-07-2008, 10:33 PM   #73
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Originally Posted by Caige View Post
Is it normal for a submersible heater to turn on and off if you bang it against the wall of aquarium (not hard)... I'm hoping so and thinking yes it is normal. I'm asking because I want to make sure I don't have a defective one.
I'm new to this stuff also and I can tell you that mine seems to turn on and off if I move the cord or mess with it, but other than that it functions fine and holds the temp.
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Old 07-08-2008, 02:16 AM   #74
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Originally Posted by Caige View Post
thanks for the reply's and comments. I purchased my LR from my local LFS "tampa bay marine".

More questions:

Is it normal for a submersible heater to turn on and off if you bang it against the wall of aquarium (not hard)... I'm hoping so and thinking yes it is normal. I'm asking because I want to make sure I don't have a defective one.
If the heater is controlled by a bimetallic thermostat, (which 99% of them are) then what makes the contact to turn the heater on is a couple little magnets on a bimetallic strip. As the bimetallic strip heats up, the magnetic contacts are brought closer to each other until the snap together and complete the circuit. As it cools off, the spring force from the metal strips try and pull the magnets apart at which point the circuit is broken and the heater turns off. This is the "click" you hear when you turn the thermostat dial up and down.

I suppose if you whacked the heater hard enough the impact force could connect the magnets, but they should disconnect pretty quick if the heater didn't "want" to be on in the first place. But if it was close to it coming on anyway, then I can see the contact remaining closed until things heated up enough to reopen the contacts.

What I can say for sure though, is that if you continue whacking the heater on the side of the aquarium, you'll most likely end up with a defective one. (Heater)
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Old 07-08-2008, 11:37 AM   #75
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Kurt, thanks for that info, very interesting!
Caige, I would not add an anemone until your tank is more established. A new tank takes about 4 months to become stable and adding one now may cause big problems, since they can be highly sensitive to changing water parameters.
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Old 07-08-2008, 04:10 PM   #76
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Thanks all. I moved the heater temporarilly to the front of the tank so I can see it go on and off without touching it - until I feel comfortable that it is working and it's setting; then I will move to the back and out of the way.

So if no Anemone - think I can get a fish and coral? Was thinking of a six stripe wrasse and a soft coral or two.
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Old 07-08-2008, 04:30 PM   #77
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You're cycled... I don't see any reason not to add a fish or coral. Just add one fish at a time though and wait a month or so between additions. That gives the bacteria time to adjust to the new bioload.
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Old 07-08-2008, 08:43 PM   #78
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I'm sad! I came home from work today and saw one of my 3 emerald crabs dead (believe me it is NOT molt). My other 2 emeralds, 3 peppermint shrimp and a couple nassarius were all knawing and tearing him apart. I'm not sure what killed him! So I took my stats as follows:

Temp 77.7 (has consistantly been 76.6 - 78
PH 8 (It has been at 8 since 6/23) I did add some Reef Buffer (2 teaspoons) to bring it up to 8.2 yesterday. As you can tell it didn't work
Ammonia 0 has been at 0 since 6/23
Nitrite 0 has been at 0 since 6/23
Nitrate 20 has been at 20 since 6/23 with the exception of one day 6/25 when it was at 40 (did a 20% water change that night)
KH hardness 196.9ppm this is high but still within range... since 6/23 it has consistantly been at 161.1 ppm

Added these inverts on 6/28 and have all been doing fine. Emeralds were always active.

I have checked my chemicals at least every other day so I know i'm right on them. I did do a 15% water change on 6/6 but water parameters and temp were all good and seemed to go well and fast.

Since I acclimated the inverts I have only put food in the tank once and that was on July 4th.. i only gave a pinch of "microcrabs cyclop-eeze granules. I figured they have plenty of algea to eat and i have seen them eating constantly.

Please tell me i did NOT starve my emerald! I have no idea why it died..... sad sad sad
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Old 07-10-2008, 09:29 PM   #79
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No one loves me anymore You all think I should close this post out now and just open ones as they come in the help section?
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Old 07-11-2008, 01:12 AM   #80
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Nah... we still love you. But you might grab more attention by starting a new thread for new issues.

Regarding the crab, some stuff just dies - regardless of what you do. The crab could've been on its way out to start with. Or possibly the other guys saw an opportunity for a free meal. Crabs are naturally evil (just my opinion) so I wouldn't put it past them!

Regarding your Reef Buffer, you'll see a temporary (like hours) increase in pH when you add buffer, but it won't increase it over the long haul. It WILL increase your alkalinity though, and it appears it did. You went from about 9 dkH to 11 dkH in one jump, which I *think* might be a quick jump. I honestly haven't read or researched how much of a jump in alkalinity is too much though. Part of me wonders if that had anything to do with the crab, but I doubt it.
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