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Old 05-29-2012, 11:34 AM   #11
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Okay but I have a sponge between the second and third chamber, will the sand not drift through the sponge? Can I see a picture of yours?
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Old 05-29-2012, 11:36 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terrance
Post one of your drawings for visuals
Haha yeah what he said!
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Old 05-29-2012, 11:50 AM   #13
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This is pretty easy. You don't need to have a sandbed in your fuge if you have enough in your DT. Same as LR. I keep my LR rubble in my fuge incase I need to secure a coral to something. Even the sponge isn't truely needed as long as you have a bubble trap in between the fuge and return section. I just got done making my own sump, should be ready to go today when I get off work since I had a couple leaks in my silicon. The thread should be around somewhere, but looking at my drawing might be able to help you out some.
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Old 05-29-2012, 12:06 PM   #14
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Can you send us a pic of your drawing or give us the thread name so we can see it? My birthday is coming up so I'm trying to figure out what I'll need to convert this into a refugium so I can ask my parents for it haha
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Old 05-29-2012, 05:11 PM   #15
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An how can I take care of this problem?
I want to get a sand Bed bottom in the second chamber with the chaeto but there is a spongy thing between second and third chamber so won't the sand be blocking the movement from second to third chamber?
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Old 05-31-2012, 12:04 AM   #16
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Wanted to give u an idea of my sump. U can use the bottom chamber, put sand and macro in it. Don't worry on out the mesh, just extra filtration.
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Old 05-31-2012, 12:08 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kio707
Wanted to give u an idea of my sump. U can use the bottom chamber, put sand and macro in it. Don't worry on out the mesh, just extra filtration.
Okay, another problem I ran into us where to put all the sand?
I have that sponge on the bottom so sand would either bloc water from flowing through or the sand would sift through
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Old 05-31-2012, 12:22 AM   #18
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Remove the egg crate holding the bio balls and that sponge on the bottom. Water will flow down, feed the macro and continue on. U cold even put the egg crate higher and place rubble on top of it, creating another filtration...
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Old 05-31-2012, 12:52 AM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kio707
Remove the egg crate holding the bio balls and that sponge on the bottom. Water will flow down, feed the macro and continue on. U cold even put the egg crate higher and place rubble on top of it, creating another filtration...
Okay, well how could I keep the sand from flowing over to the next chamber? And isn't the sponge an added source if mechanical filtration which would be even better?
Will I need to keep the sump completely full from now on as well?
I keep the second and third chambers half full so that half the bio-balls are exposed and half are underwater
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Old 05-31-2012, 10:47 AM   #20
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I cant really see how the water flows through the sump but from what I see I would forego the sand and use live rock rubble. Those bioballs collect a lot of gunk and generate Nitrates. You would need to take them out regularly and clean them to keep the 'trates under control. You are correct that the sponge filter with sand on it would slow down the flow of water and some would probably sift through until the sponge became clogged. Sand needs to be on the bottom if you use it.

You might consider that a protein skimmer would help with cleaning the water as well. Mangroves work well, but they can grow quickly and I really cant see how you could use them with this type of sump. I would stick with chaeto or some other type of macroalgae and use a plant bulb for lighting. A filter sock over the input to the sump would catch the majority of the solids from the tank. You just have to clean it occasionally.

You can keep a cleanup crew in with the live rock to help keep the detritus to a minimum. A couple of cleaner shrimp or crabs would be fine. I wouldnt put a starfish in the sump. You can, of course, assuming they can get enough to eat but I would rather see those in the DT.

When filling your sump I would advise that you only fill it to the level where the DT would siphon if you lost power. What I mean is that if your power goes out and the pump stops running, some water will siphon back to the sump plus probably some of the water in the overflow as well. What I did was fill my tank until water started flowing into the sump then, with everything off, fill the sump leaving about 1 inch from the top. Then I turned on the pump and marked where the water level stabilized. That became my max fill line. Then I started taking out water until the pump started sucking air. I put enough back in to raise it 1 inch and marked that as my minimum fill line. (A good auto top-off system will keep the water level where you want it.)

This way if I were to lose power I dont end up with soaked carpets. You can put anti-siphon valves in the water lines but I wouldnt depend on them since they can fail from things in the water that could cause the ball to be stuck open. They could corrode or have some piece of detritus jam it open. You would never know about it until something bad happened.

Another option to add a 'fuge would be to change your sump to one like Kio shows in his pics. All you need is a regular tank, get some baffles made from plexiglass or glass and build it to what you want. Just be sure to do your research if you want to put in a protein skimmer so it will have adequate room to function. There are plenty of videos online showing how to build one.

Keep us advised on your progress.
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