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Old 05-31-2012, 11:32 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by Retired_AF View Post
...I would forego the sand...

You might consider that a protein skimmer would help with cleaning the water as well. Mangroves work well, but they can grow quickly and I really cant see how you could use them with this type of sump. I would stick with chaeto or some other type of macroalgae and use a plant bulb for lighting. A filter sock over the input to the sump would catch the majority of the solids from the tank. You just have to clean it occasionally.

You can keep a cleanup crew in with the live rock to help keep the detritus to a minimum. A couple of cleaner shrimp or crabs would be fine. I wouldnt put a starfish in the sump. You can, of course, assuming they can get enough to eat but I would rather see those in the DT.

When filling your sump I would advise that you only fill it to the level where the DT would siphon if you lost power. This way if I were to lose power I dont end up with soaked carpets.

Another option to add a 'fuge would be to change your sump to one like Kio shows in his pics.
Good advice. armyman has another post about his sump. It was manufacturer made and I think I read he didn't want to change his sump. The thread was very long though, so I stopped reading it. This was my thought after the first 2 pages on his other thread -

First chamber:
Get a filter sock and upgrade the skimmer (make sure it fits the first chamber)
Second chamber:
Throw away the bioballs and filter tray in order to grow macroalgae in the second chamber. Cut a square hole in the white cover top for lights to enter the chamber. No sand because its not needed or required. There is enough live rocks in the main tank for all the necessary biological filtration.
Third chamber:
Just a pump.

Nothing else is needed. More stuff can be added, but the cost of those items may outweigh the benefits.
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Old 05-31-2012, 01:01 PM   #22
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I cant really see how the water flows through the sump but from what I see I would forego the sand and use live rock rubble. Those bioballs collect a lot of gunk and generate Nitrates. You would need to take them out regularly and clean them to keep the 'trates under control. You are correct that the sponge filter with sand on it would slow down the flow of water and some would probably sift through until the sponge became clogged. Sand needs to be on the bottom if you use it.

You might consider that a protein skimmer would help with cleaning the water as well. Mangroves work well, but they can grow quickly and I really cant see how you could use them with this type of sump. I would stick with chaeto or some other type of macroalgae and use a plant bulb for lighting. A filter sock over the input to the sump would catch the majority of the solids from the tank. You just have to clean it occasionally.

You can keep a cleanup crew in with the live rock to help keep the detritus to a minimum. A couple of cleaner shrimp or crabs would be fine. I wouldnt put a starfish in the sump. You can, of course, assuming they can get enough to eat but I would rather see those in the DT.

When filling your sump I would advise that you only fill it to the level where the DT would siphon if you lost power. What I mean is that if your power goes out and the pump stops running, some water will siphon back to the sump plus probably some of the water in the overflow as well. What I did was fill my tank until water started flowing into the sump then, with everything off, fill the sump leaving about 1 inch from the top. Then I turned on the pump and marked where the water level stabilized. That became my max fill line. Then I started taking out water until the pump started sucking air. I put enough back in to raise it 1 inch and marked that as my minimum fill line. (A good auto top-off system will keep the water level where you want it.)

This way if I were to lose power I dont end up with soaked carpets. You can put anti-siphon valves in the water lines but I wouldnt depend on them since they can fail from things in the water that could cause the ball to be stuck open. They could corrode or have some piece of detritus jam it open. You would never know about it until something bad happened.

Another option to add a 'fuge would be to change your sump to one like Kio shows in his pics. All you need is a regular tank, get some baffles made from plexiglass or glass and build it to what you want. Just be sure to do your research if you want to put in a protein skimmer so it will have adequate room to function. There are plenty of videos online showing how to build one.

Keep us advised on your progress.
Alright thanks, my overflow turns into 2 pipes so I will have to buy 2 filter socks for both pipes and I do have a protein skimmer...not a great one but it does it's job for now I will think about upgrading that after I get all the equipment I'm planning on getting a UV sterilizer, RO/DI system and all the things I need for the refugium

So I'm going to put a couple little pieces of live rock with the chaeto to give a little more filtration and in case I wanna add some to the DT later

How can Copepodsgo back and forth from tan to refugium if I have a sponge between 2nd and 3rd chamber and won't the pump's impeller kill a few of them?
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Old 05-31-2012, 01:05 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Terrance

Good advice. armyman has another post about his sump. It was manufacturer made and I think I read he didn't want to change his sump. The thread was very long though, so I stopped reading it. This was my thought after the first 2 pages on his other thread -

First chamber:
Get a filter sock and upgrade the skimmer (make sure it fits the first chamber)
Second chamber:
Throw away the bioballs and filter tray in order to grow macroalgae in the second chamber. Cut a square hole in the white cover top for lights to enter the chamber. No sand because its not needed or required. There is enough live rocks in the main tank for all the necessary biological filtration.
Third chamber:
Just a pump.

Nothing else is needed. More stuff can be added, but the cost of those items may outweigh the benefits.
I will hopefully have this all done by this weekend! Except I will upgrade the skimmer later after all the necessities are taken care of
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Old 06-02-2012, 05:28 PM   #24
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Just went and got some plexiglass cut to replace the white plastic top, my lfs was out of filter socks so in gonna have to wait until they get some in to convert it over):
Also bought a light for it!
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Old 06-02-2012, 05:50 PM   #25
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Do I really need filter socks if I have these sponges on the back of the overflow connected to the pipes that lead to the sump
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Old 06-02-2012, 06:04 PM   #26
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You don't have to have a filter sock, but it helps with mechanical filtration, noise reduction of the water coming into the sump, and bubbles in the sump. Although the bubbles at the intake of the sump don't really matter, as long as they don't make it to the return side. Most times there is a sponge between the skimmer portion and the return section to eliminate micro bubbles from getting into the DT.
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Old 06-02-2012, 06:54 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Flreefer
You don't have to have a filter sock, but it helps with mechanical filtration, noise reduction of the water coming into the sump, and bubbles in the sump. Although the bubbles at the intake of the sump don't really matter, as long as they don't make it to the return side. Most times there is a sponge between the skimmer portion and the return section to eliminate micro bubbles from getting into the DT.
The pipes end below the water level in the sump so it makes no noise at all, I do have a sponge between second and third chamber that stops them, I might get the filter socks eventually but I'm gonna completely convert it over first, just gotta finish cutting my plexiglass and take out the bio-balls and replace them with chaeto!
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Old 06-02-2012, 07:12 PM   #28
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Sounds good army man! Only thing I can think of is that if the drain is under the water line it may put a little back pressure on the drains flow, but that is relatively inconsequential. It will just slow down the drain a tiny bit.
Best of luck finishing it up!
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Old 06-02-2012, 07:17 PM   #29
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Just thought about it, but what I did on my refugium side of my sump, since I don't use a sock on that side and the pipe runs under the water line, is that I drilled about 6-8 holes above the water line. This allows for the back-pressure to be released.
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Old 06-02-2012, 08:22 PM   #30
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Just thought about it, but what I did on my refugium side of my sump, since I don't use a sock on that side and the pipe runs under the water line, is that I drilled about 6-8 holes above the water line. This allows for the back-pressure to be released.
Drilled holes in the pipe?
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