New Tank started by a n00b

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OK - The LR will be in tomorrow. I am curious if I will have to cure the LR outside of my cycling tank or just drop it in there.

I am thinking I will cyphon out about 35% of the water in it right now and store it in a bucket. Place the new LR in the tank and then dump the water back in there. What do you guys think I should do?
 
You can go ahead and put it in your main, the die-off will help your cycle and you won't have to worry about waiting for the rock to cure separately.
How far along are you in your cycle?
 
I havent tested it since Monday. I figured I would throw the tank out of wack by adding the LR to it anyways.

I just finally figured out why that thread says to mark your fill line on the outside of your tank. You want to KEEP your tank at that fill line and constantly monitor it because when the water evaportes the salinity changes in your tank. Losing water but not losing salt makes for higher salinity. SO you keep toping it off at that line to ensure the same salinity at all times. (Makes sense)

I have noticed that the HOB filter and the back of my hood is getting caked in salt. Its like building up back there. If the salt doesnt evap then how is there salt back there?
 
It's called salt creep. Make sure you don't put that back in your tank. Just scrape it off and throw it away.
 
Well, Got the new live rock from Live Aquaria yesterday. I got this little bowl looking peace that goes ohhhh so well with the little Gargoyle statue! lol

Just an update...


Sat 4-21-2007

Temp - 78 (1st time this thing has strayed from 76ish)
SG - 1.0225
pH - 8.4
NH3 - 8.0ppm
NO2 - 2.0ppm
NO3 - 80ppm
 

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I know everyone says not to do water changes during your cycle... but knowing what I know now, I'd do a 50% water change with those water parameters. I wouldn't run right out and do it until you get some other more knowledgeable folks chiming in, but I just thought I'd bring it up.

My thinking is that by the time you get done with your cycle, your nitrates are going to be sky high, if you're at 80 right now - and it's going to take a bunch of water changes (a BUNCH) to get them down to a reasonable level. At 8ppm, you have way more ammonia than you need to keep the cycle going, and maybe even too much. If you do a 50% water change, you cut all your readings in half... which would still make for reasonable parameters for someone cycling a tank.

Anyone else think the same, or is it just me?
 
Yeah - They are in fact really high. I think I will do another test just to make sure I didnt fubar something up. I am actually in Denver on a business trip right now but I will be back Thursday...
 
I think a PWC is necessary, otherwise the ammonia is going to kill off the life on the LR. When curing or cycling w/ LR ammonia should not be allowed to go above about 3, in order to not destroy the life. Doing PWC's will prolong the cycle, but if it preserves the diversity of life on the rock, it's well worth it.
 
Did a 10% water change this morning...

I should have tested the water right before I did the water change.... What do you suppose these numbers suggest? I am now starting to see some traces of this green slime stuff on some of my rocks.

Temp - 72
SG - 1.0205
pH - 8.4
NH3 - 0.5ppm
NO2 - 2.0ppm
NO3 - 5.0ppm

Ohh - Also I have been finding it extremely difficult to regulate the salinity. I can seem to mix a bucket of solution the same to save my life. Is this due to the small portions (5 gallons) I am doing them in? I have a 6 gallon bucket I drop a power head into and then add all the water and the salt. It seams when I put the 1/2 cup of salt per gallon it always comes up too salty. Then I am forced to try and regulate it in the tank which sucks... Any suggestions or (Procedures) to follow in terms of regulating salinity?

Thanks in advance,

Jerry
 
I am assuming you are using one of those swing arm hydrometers instead of a refractometer. If that is the the case, the swing arms aren't extremely accurate and that could be part of the problem. Also, the temperature of the water you are testing changes the reading on a swing arm hydrometer, so that too could be the issue. If you ARE using a refractometer, then ignore this! :)
 
Ahh Hah - It is indeed a hydrometer. And yes the tank has started to vary in temp. It never did this untill I added all the LR to it. You would think the LR would help stabalize the temp. The ambient temp seams to change frequently when my wife is home lol. She likes to make the room warmer and I like it kewler so we constantly sneak over to the thermostat and change it. (I should probably install a locking thermostat with a key! lol

Ohh another thing I am curious about is if I should indeed have this skimmer hooked up. I have read that it will not skim with no bioload. Since I dont have any fish or anything in the tank should the skimmer not be hooked up? If thats isnt the case and it SHOULD be connected should I expect it to start skimming in a few days after its break in cycle?
 
A couple things...

1. If your nitrate readings were truly 80ppm before your 10% water change, then they can't be 5ppm now. One of those two readings were off, and there's a pretty big color difference between 80 and 5 if you're using the API test kit - which I think I remember you are. You probably realize that, but thought I'd point it out just in case you didn't. Either there was some "user error" there, or you have an old test kit.

2. Good to see your ammonia is dropping from those high levels. Looks like your nitrites are getting ready to start heading up for a spike. Seems like your cycle is progressing nicely.

3. If you're trying to test the salinity of your saltwater immediately after you mix it up, it's hopeless. Until you let it sit (preferably with a heater and powerhead in it) for a day or so, adjusting the salinity is useless - it's just too unstable. Same goes with the pH. After about 24 hours of aging, you can check the parameters and adjust as needed. And as mentioned previously, a hydrometer is going to make it tough no matter what. A refractometer is a really really really good investment. All you need is a drop of water and about 10 seconds of your time and you've got your salinity. It's probaby the most useful thing I bought for my tank.

4. Depending on what salt mix you're using, a 1/2 cup per gallon usually gets you to about 1.021 SG. For Reef Crystals, I mix 2 cups salt with 3.5 gallons water and I get a salinity of 1.025+ and after a day or two I add some DI water to lower the SG to 1.024. In my opinion, it's way easier to purposely mix it saltier and then just add fresh water to lower the SG versus having to add salt mix to make it saltier. Add salt gets you back to the issue from #3!

Oh... and running the skimmer now won't hurt anything. It's a good time to get it broken in. Then again, it's no big deal if you don't run it either!
 
Hey thanks for the tips! Thats why I wished I did another test rigtht before I did mywater change. (To Verify that 80ppm). Anyways - I am going to test again this evening. I dont mind doing the tests at all so might as well do them!

I just read the salinity about 24hours after its been mixing. The problem is its never consistant. I can add 1/2 cup per gallon everytime and get different readings everytime. Its probably due to the hydrometer. I will probably try to get one of those refractometers in a week or so but untill then I am stuck with the Hydrometer! (Which came recomended from the LFS! grrrrr) wish they would have told me about the refractometers! My fault for not researching enough before going to the place.. anyways... The tank is nice and clear and buzzing along. Cant wait to see what it does next!
 
Well, I am predicting this thing will be done cycling by this weekend probably..

Temp - 74
SG - 1.021
pH - 8.3
NH3 - 0.0ppm
NO2 - 1.0ppm
NO3 - 10.0ppm

What should I get to put into the tank first? A few snails and then a single fish a few days later? I dont want to mess this up haha...
 
That does look like the end of a cycle.
Why is your temp so low?
You could add a small clean up crew and even a fish. The clean up crew don't count toward your bio-load.
 
I have heard the yellow tail damsels are a no go because they are "mean little buggers". Does this go for all damsels? I say a really pretty blue one at the lfs that was tempting. I do want the fish I posted on the 1st page tho. I will plan on adding 1 fish and a few snails then.

What should I keep my temp at? 74 is dead smack in the middle of the green on my thermometer. Should it be higher for sw?
 
Generally the damsels can/will become agressive. The blue one you saw might have been a blue devil damsel, and mine is mean. You might get away with adding one last to reduce aggression, depending on your other tank mates. My yellow tails aren't that bad but they are in with other damsels.
I keep my temp at 77-78. Stability is important, you don't want any more than a 2 degree swing.
 
I can raise is up and steady it at 78 if thats whats needed. I just thought it was suppose to be 74. So out of the fish I was considering what should I add 1st?
(The list is on the 1st page)
 
Hmmm, I just reread what you are thinking. If you can get the gobies and firefish as true mated pairs you will be good to go. I would start with the clown. Then the firefish, then the gobys. My reasoning is, the addition of 1 fish in a newer tank will get the beneficial bacteria used to a real bioload. After that, you can add 2 at a time.
 
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