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Old 03-31-2013, 11:49 AM   #21
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Old 03-31-2013, 01:14 PM   #22
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Water is getting there! Heater is in bringing it to temp. Once its almost full i will be mixing it with salt, then tomorrow i should be able to fill the rest with my tank water and fire it up. Never done the sump thing before so i dont know exactly if how i plan to mix up my water is a good idea:s
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Old 03-31-2013, 04:05 PM   #23
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Yea it will work if there's a valve on the feed to the sump you can close it until the water is mixed
Here's how i do my PWC's I shut off the return pump close the feed valve then pump the old water from the sump then pump fresh salt water into the sump open valve and turn return pump back on.
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Old 03-31-2013, 04:07 PM   #24
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I have no valve
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Old 03-31-2013, 04:18 PM   #25
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Not a big deal i'd spend a few $ and put one in as it will save you a lot of headaches later with a valve you can isolate the sump from the DT this way if you need to remove it you wont have a huge job. I pull my sump and give it a good cleaning every year, return pump and skimmer pump get cleaned every 90 days

PS now is the time to put in a valve before tank is full
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Old 03-31-2013, 04:25 PM   #26
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Its gonne be a big job putting a valve in thats for sure, never thought of that, i have about 20 gallons of ro water in my tank but the intake to the sump is sealed and all.. Pvc cemented in place..
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Old 03-31-2013, 04:26 PM   #27
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Take a look in the pics, the grey tube is the intake to the sump, cant install a valve
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Old 03-31-2013, 04:31 PM   #28
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can you put a small piece of spaflex on the over flow then the valve then the pipe to the sump?
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Old 03-31-2013, 04:43 PM   #29
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I cant take anything apart without cutting it out.. Im going to fill it completely with ro di water and run a test so i dont waste any salt in case of an error then ill remove some for the transfer and save it for weekly water changes that way i know how much backflow ill have and what not
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Old 03-31-2013, 05:19 PM   #30
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I see it's all glued, good idea testing with fresh water
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