New to Salt Water with 75g

[tetrajoy]

Hello! My name is Carissa, and I'm new to the hobby. I bought a new drilled 75g tank and custom cabinet from my LFS recently as well as the sump w/ bio balls, pump, and heater. I got a coralife CF lunar light fixture for Christmas. My husband pretty much did all the pluming himself in two days (with helpful forum tips and videos). We're going to be adding water tonight, and so excited to get everything up and running!

I know I'll need the following:

Protein skimmer(once cycled)
Salt (set up will be pre-mixed water from the LFS)
Live Sand(any suggestions?)
Live Rock (any suggestions?)

I want:
Maroon clown pair
Anemones
CUC
5 line wrasse

I plan on trying to get some Bio-spira to get it going quicker along with adding ammonia.

Does anyone have any suggestions?

Thanks ahead of time!

 

[redsea]

Hello, congrats on your new tank! Just keep in mind that Maroon Clownfish are very aggressive so they will be even more aggressive as a pair.

 

[carey]

Welcome aboard!!

I would hook up the skimmer anyway, it will need a week or two to break in so might as well start now.

I also think maroons will be a bit aggressive, but if thats what you want go for it.

Depending on the anemone(s) that you want you may need more light. Also there is no guarantee that the clowns will host it. It's also a really really good idea to have your tank setup for at least 6 months before adding one. They are very sensitive and need a seasoned tank.

 

[tetrajoy]

Search for "Carissa Massago" on facebook and I have a public folder that has my pictures of the set up.

 

[tetrajoy]

I was just wondering...I had a very slow leak in my plumbing (one drop per day). It has stopped because of salt crystallizing...I want to know if anyone has any experience in this being a problem down the road. I haven't put anything in my tank yet, so I wanted to make sure before I do.

 

[carey]

To be honest, I would rectify the leak before going any further. It's a pain now but in the end its the best way to go.

 

[tetrajoy]

To be honest, I would rectify the leak before going any further. It's a pain now but in the end its the best way to go.

I guess I just needed someone to tell me what I already knew...just in case there were to be any issues later. Is there a good, quick-drying silicone that anyone would suggest?

 

[iadubber]

I would ditch the bio balls

 

[tetrajoy]

I would ditch the bio balls

Why?

 

[Sergie]

Because waste and other contaminants can get lodged between the balls, creating "Nitrate Factories".

 

[tetrajoy]

Because waste and other contaminants can get lodged between the balls, creating "Nitrate Factories".

Wouldn't regular maintenance take care of that?

 

[Sergie]

Do you mean cleaning the bio balls? If you do it defeats the purpose of having them because you'll be cleaning off the benificial bacteria off of them also.

 

[tetrajoy]

Do you mean cleaning the bio balls? If you do it defeats the purpose of having them because you'll be cleaning off the benificial bacteria off of them also.

Not cleaning them, just doing what you would do with the filter media, rinse a small portion of it at a time in some salt water (only doing this after 6 months after cycling and then monthly after that). At least those are the directions I've read. My LFS uses a wet/dry filter on their maroon clown breeding tank and have had the best luck for over 10 years! Also it can be lower maintenance than having a fuge with algae (some people are trimming back the algae daily).

This is just the way that I chose...and I've done plenty of research. Thank you for your input!

 

[AquaRick]

I guess I just needed someone to tell me what I already knew...just in case there were to be any issues later. Is there a good, quick-drying silicone that anyone would suggest?

Not so sure about quick drying, but you can use GE #1 silicone. Make sure to get the version without mold & mildew protectors. Just about any hardware place will have some. If you go this route, make sure to wait a day to allow it to cure.

 

[tetrajoy]

Not so sure about quick drying, but you can use GE #1 silicone. Make sure to get the version without mold & mildew protectors. Just about any hardware place will have some. If you go this route, make sure to wait a day to allow it to cure.

Thanks Rick.

 

[AquaRick]

Yup. Looking forward how things turnout. Just a side-note from personal experience, if there's ever a small problem with the tank, it will only get worse over time. Glad you're fixing that small leak!

 

[tetrajoy]

After doing a lot more forum reading and chating...I signed up for the group buy and I'm thinking about getting:
BRS “Reef Saver” Eco Dry Aquarium Live Rock

Hydor Koralia Evolution 550



Question: Would 50 pounds of base rock be too much for my 75 gallons? I have 12 pounds of live rock right now. I plan on having at least a 2" sand bed.


Question 2: Would 2 of those pumps be enough?


I have read that people have used two that size before with good results! I just want to get some more reassurance.

 

[AquaRick]

50lbs of base should be fine. Since it's dry, it will be a lot more when wet. I bought 100lbs of pukani from BRS in the past. I almost got the reef saver rock though. I just wish their rock wasn't so pricey though.

If you're looking for more flow, I'd suggest 2 of the 750's. Maybe someone else can chime in for a tank your size?

 

[CleverBs]

I dont think that would be to much flow at all, I use a 425 korilia, 750 korilia in my 25gallon tank and the flow is fantastic imo, nothing settles and there are lots of different currents I can choose from to place different corals.

 

[AquaRick]

I dont think that would be to much flow at all, I use a 425 korilia, 750 korilia in my 25gallon tank and the flow is fantastic imo, nothing settles and there are lots of different currents I can choose from to place different corals.

Nice. Then yeah, i'd say upgrade to the larger PHs.