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Old 01-04-2007, 12:15 AM   #41
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Ok I finally go the test kit! but the bad news is I think the Nitrates and Phosphates are VERY high.

High Range PH = 8.2
Ammonia = 0
Nitrites = 0
Nitrates = somewhere between 80 and 160
Phosphates = 2.0

This is after a 35% water change four days ago! I think someone suggested taking the black sponge out, but what will filter the water if I take that out?

Thanks again for the help and advice! My two damsels thank you!
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Old 01-04-2007, 12:58 AM   #42
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Yes your nitrates are very very high but you have time to work on it. LR acts as a natural filtration method so do not worry. I am sure that sponge is the cause of at least such a high reading.

I am sure it has already been mentioned but a good protein skimmer, LR, and flow is all you really need to filter your tank. Having a refigium will help reduce nitrates and get rid of some algae. I have one and love it but you can go without.

I would defintely say RO/DI water is a good suggestion for the
phosphates.

I am also really surprised you got no amonia reading. Not a bad thing at all but I thought it looked like you had die off from moving the rock which would just cause some amonia and a little longer cycle and add to the algae but I could be wrong. Anybody else think the LR looks like that?

Oh also, please do not take this the wrong way, but you did ground the probe to an outlet? Just want to make sure you got that right for safety!
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Old 01-04-2007, 09:14 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomd
I am sure it has already been mentioned but a good protein skimmer, LR, and flow is all you really need to filter your tank. Having a refigium will help reduce nitrates and get rid of some algae. I have one and love it but you can go without.
Thats good b/c I just got that new powerhead installed! I was wondering about the skimmer b/c someone suggested this skimmer but I have no idea how it would work because I have that huge wood rim on all sides. I don't know how I would attach it. Is it designed for such problems? Would this skimmer be sufficient for a reef tank in the future?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomd
Oh also, please do not take this the wrong way, but you did ground the probe to an outlet? Just want to make sure you got that right for safety!
No offense taken! I think its fairly obvious I need help! That was my next question..... how do I ground that to an outlet?
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Old 01-04-2007, 10:40 AM   #44
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I agree, you can probably remove the sponges. I had 4 in my filter, I removed 2 and waited a week and then tested and removed the other two.
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Old 01-04-2007, 02:15 PM   #45
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what about something like this? I am not sure what all is in here but would this be something i could set up? or should I just stick to commercial stuff.
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Old 01-04-2007, 02:18 PM   #46
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That is a sump. I am planning on using that same article for my 125G.
Have you tested your source water, especially for phosphates/nitrAtes, maybe even ammonia?
I can't remember, are you still cycling?
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Old 01-04-2007, 02:41 PM   #47
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haven't tested the source water yet, and I am not sure what you mean by "cycling"
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Old 01-04-2007, 03:02 PM   #48
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I just went back to the beginning of the thread, he gave you an established tank. Cycling is getting the tank ready for new inhabitants. Generally a fishless cycle is used, meaning, you introduce an ammonia source (usually a raw, unseasoned shrimp) and let it rot in your NEW tank, this will produce ammonia (VERY toxic to fish), ammonia will spike and nitrItes (also VERY toxic to fish) will start to rise, as they consume the ammonia. The next step will be a spike in nitrAtes, as they consume the nitrItes.
In your case, they tank looks cycled or at least at the end of a cycle, judging by the algae present and possibly the high nitrAtes (not as toxic to fish, but over time can be, especially at high levels.
Ok, now for PWCs. I find it best to premix your water. You want to get your new water as close to your main tank's parameters as possibly, mainly salinity, pH and temp.
This is how I premix my water:
Day 1-add ph/salt/heater/water
Day 2-check salinity/temp
Day 3-remove old SW and replace with new SW, clean equip and carry on with my day.
With your nitrAtes that high, I would look into doing about a 50% PWC, this should cut your nitrAtes in half. Start a new batch of water and wait 3 days or so and repeat, until you get them below 20. I know, this sounds like a pain, but once you get over this hump, keep up with regular PWCs and you shouldn't have a problem. This was just your friend's carelessness and you can easily fix it and have a happy, healthy tank.
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Old 01-04-2007, 03:10 PM   #49
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I really appreciate all the help! I am getting really excited about having a "clean" tank! so I should do another PWC? I just did one 5 days ago and it didn't seem to do anything as far as what the pet store guy said. Did I do the PWC wrong? I first filled two 5 gallon buckets with tap water, then let the tap water sit for a week or longer, then I added salt, heat, and stuff. I waited just like it said for three days checked it on the third day and then did the water change?
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Old 01-04-2007, 03:20 PM   #50
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That sounds about right. I am not sure about city water and the chems they put in it, I am on well water. Hopefully someone with city water can help with how they do theirs. I would still check your tap water for phosphates, nitrAtes and ammonia. If you do a 50% PWC, that should knock your nitrAtes down by half, keep doing this until you are under 20ppm.
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