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Old 11-16-2006, 09:32 AM   #11
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The link goes into what to feed and how much. You can either buy frozen cube food at your lfs like Marine Cuisine which runs about $5 and will feed your fish for around two weeks or more or you can make it yourself in a blender. Again the link goes into much more detail but if making yourself make sure it's all food that comes from the ocean and not fresh fish.

You don't want to mix your pwc water and let it sit. You want to keep a ph running in the mix for the 24+ hours so that it properly mixes and so there is good oxygen exchange.
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Old 11-17-2006, 05:54 AM   #12
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Call me really girly, but I dont think I could handle blending up food for them lol. Also, how long after pwc can you test your nitrate levels or other levels and them be accurate???
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Old 11-17-2006, 08:12 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ICEnVy
Also, how long after pwc can you test your nitrate levels or other levels and them be accurate???
For no3 it's usually after an hour depending on how much water movement you have.

As for other tests some take less/more time. Ph takes the least amount of time IME. Just to be sure I don't recheck any tests until the next day.
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Old 11-17-2006, 08:30 AM   #14
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Ok. Thank you.
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Old 11-17-2006, 08:37 AM   #15
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You need to make sure that the water that you are putting into the tank has no nitrates in it. My well water has a reading of 30ppm, so when I would try to lower my nitrates it would never get below 30ppm. I now use a ro/di unit to filter the water and my tank stays at around 5ppm. You can also buy ro/di water at your lfs.
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Old 11-17-2006, 08:46 AM   #16
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Ok. I tested them just now and they are at 20ppm. So is that ok? Oh, I will test my tap water then. I fill a bazillion water jugs and then let them sit for a several days before I use them for a pwc. How much better is it to get ro/di water? Because the only LFS that sells it is a 2hr roundtrip drive for me. The filter units for that are expensive too, right? This SW thing is a never ending thing lol
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Old 11-17-2006, 09:42 AM   #17
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If using tap you run the risk of it having po4 also which can lead to algae breakouts. Letting it sit for several days will dissipate the chlorine in the water but will not dissipate the chloramine which requires a dechlorinater like Seachem Prime to remove.

It's much easier to buy a clean 30 gal trashcan and use that for holding your pwc water. If you buy a decent pump like the Mag 5 then you can use it to both mix your water and pump it back into the tank so you don't have to deal with "a bazillion water jugs".

20 ppm is the highest you want with a reef tank. I'd try to get it closer to 10 ppm or less still since it's going to slowly creep over 20 ppm soon anyways.

Did you remove your bio-wheel and clean any sponge media? If so is nh3/no2 still 0?
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Old 11-20-2006, 12:33 PM   #18
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I paid $130 for my ro/di unit from ebay. Thats shipping and everything.
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Old 11-20-2006, 12:48 PM   #19
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