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Old 06-19-2011, 03:35 AM   #11
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Some sort of plant.

ReefCleaners.org | Clean Up Crews and Macro Algae - 5 Red Mangroves
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Old 06-19-2011, 05:15 AM   #12
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remember, your tank has only been up a little over a month. The bacteria that consume nitrate take a while to get fully established as they grow in the deep non oxygenated parts of your aquarium. a DSB can add a place for anaerobic bacteria to grow but it will still take some time for it to colonize. as others have mentioned, growing macro in a sump can help lower Nitrate as well.

you can vacuum the very top of your sand bed, but dont stir it up, all that does is oxygenates your anaerobic bacteria and they dont like it and it also stirs up debris and releases nitrates back into the water column (if you are doing this with every water change most likely that is why your nitrate will not go down)

Remember, very few things come quickly in this hobby.

one last question that just popped into my head.... you aren't using bio-balls are you? they are far too good at aerobic respiration and leave you with all your Nitrate being produced away from places that will have anaerobic bacteria, leading to high levels of nitrate.
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Old 06-19-2011, 08:33 AM   #13
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This is from my research on the test kits, I think yours is fine as it is testing 0 nitrates before you add the water to the tank. You may want to research the sand bed, from what I researched I remember <2" or >4" but not in between, in between has problems. Also, do you have a good cuc?

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Originally Posted by leftyfish View Post
from an online search, someone who emailed API:
Each bottle has a Lot # printed on it, last four digits are the month and year of manufacture.

Example: Lot # 28A0102. This is a pH reagent manufactured in January of
2002.

Pond Care Wide Range pH, Ammonia, High Range pH, Nitrate,
Phosphate, Copper, Calcium and GH all last for three years.

Nitrite and KH will last for four years.

Freshwater pH(low range) and Pond Care Salt Level will last for five years.

Hope that helps!
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Old 06-19-2011, 02:00 PM   #14
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Look, if after a 50% water change using 0 ppm water...and your water has no change in nitrates...there is a clear problem with however you are testing, most likely cruddy strips.
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Old 06-19-2011, 02:58 PM   #15
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I am using API liquid test, also can I get some further information regarding the sand bed? I also heard something like that but I am not sure, I will buy more sand if necessary.

"you can vacuum the very top of your sand bed, but dont stir it up, all that does is oxygenates your anaerobic bacteria and they dont like it and it also stirs up debris and releases nitrates back into the water column (if you are doing this with every water change most likely that is why your nitrate will not go down)"

Thank you for this answer I will stop stirring my sand bed!

I have only 6 hermit crabs as my clean up crew at the moment and I plan on reintroducing my single sebae clownfish today. I will also go and pusrchase some more live sand today.

Yeetee can you suggest a method for me to clear the debris from my sand bed? I Have tried to use the little vacuum but it is really ineffective, plus my powerheads do not appear to be pushing the stuff to my filter / or my filter in inaddequate
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Old 06-19-2011, 03:02 PM   #16
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Ah, that's probably it then. If you've been stirring the bed every time you'd just be adding more nitrates to the water as the anaerobic bacteria get sad
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Old 06-19-2011, 03:22 PM   #17
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Nassarius snails do wonders for stirring the sand for you.

Here are some resources on dsb...

http://www.ronshimek.com/deep_sand_beds.html

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2002/9/aafeature
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Old 06-19-2011, 03:31 PM   #18
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Yep, I don't even touch my sand bed during water changes. Between my 4 Nassarius and my transparent cave goby the sand is spotless. Ensuring there are no dead spots helps, too.
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Old 06-19-2011, 03:43 PM   #19
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If you have a 3" sand bed you really don't need/want to go any deeper than that. After 3-4" or so it will be dead anyway as no oxygen will get down that deep and it can/will build up toxic gas (which is why a DSB is typically in a sump where it doesn't get disturbed).
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Old 06-19-2011, 04:28 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Smitty
If you have a 3" sand bed you really don't need/want to go any deeper than that. After 3-4" or so it will be dead anyway as no oxygen will get down that deep and it can/will build up toxic gas (which is why a DSB is typically in a sump where it doesn't get disturbed).
You actually want the dsb to be "disturbed" by the creatures living in it. From the tiniest ones like copepods to snails. The turning over of the dsb by the creature prevents clumping and hydrogen sulfide gas from forming in pockets. You want the full volume of it to be turned over every month by the organisms living in there if I remember correctly from the dsb articles. A dsb is considered deep over 4" and typically not more than 7".
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