Ok i just setup my tank...now i have 4000 questions lol

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my other tank is a 29 gallon saltwater pretty basic like yours i did it on a budget, the brown algea dont worry about like tecwzrd said it will go away after awhile just give it time mine got really really ugly then it just cleared up, as far as buck for buck i would get your liverock off ebay i get mine from ebay 25lbs of fiji i think i paid 70 total including shipping, i still have my stock lighting system but i do have a prism protien skimmer, and a penguin 350 dual biowheel for filtration, and now i just have a clownfish in my tank thats it.... good luck with your setup, if you looking to cheap it out just get the odyssea power compact light for 60 bucks its good enough for most basic corals, it doesnt have a good reputation on here but mine on my reef tank works fine... doesnt get any cheaper.
 
Ok cool thanks. Yea that stuff is just a monster. It's even growing all over my sand. But yes, that's what I figured it was to I did turn my light off, thanks. Also, about a cleaning crew: How much will they add to my bioload? How many should I get for my 29 gal? And I would rather just shrimp if possible, I'm not to fond of the snails. And do they normally get along with most fish? I plan to have a clownfish for sure, will they get along?

Thanks!
 
your basicaly going to have the same exact tank as me lol, 29 gallon 2 clowns, cleaner shrimp 2 pepermint shrimp and a few blue leg hermits and a few turbo snails... a cleaning crew really doesnt raise your bioload much at all you can pretty much stock it up and it doesnt affect the water much.. clownfish get along fine with the cleaner shrimps and clowns are pretty good fish to start with.
 
Welcome to the most frustrating and enjoyable hobby I have found yet!!!!
I say that because some days it can be frustrating because you want to get it right and you will get a lot of advice from a lot of people,

As a new guy myself here are a few things I have noticed.

First off, Start Slow. It sounds like you are.

I also cant afford a lot of LR at once so I must buy a rock or 2 every payday. Some people will tell you that you want to avoid drastic swings, or changes. So perhaps buying 3 or 5 pounds at a time might not be too bad of an idea.

You had mentioned MH lights, I have a friend who works at the LFS and is not out to sell me anything. He made it sound like the MH lights are rather extreme and really wont be needed until you get into a very advanced tank.

One thing i learned is that it is very easy to over feed a tank, Now I feed every other day, and every thing is doing fine.

Just a story to share about an experience I had. I had an outbreak of this black hairlike mess that had been identified by someone on this site as cyanobacteria (SP?). To combat this I had cut back on feeding, purchased some crabs, a lawnmower blenny, liverock, and a light, and changed different methods of the way I was doing things. In the end, I went home (from College) for 3 weeks. I had a friend feed the fish every other day. When I came back, the cyanobacteria was gone!. the water level was low due to evaporation, but the tank was the cleanest it had ever been. After thinking about it, and talking to people, there are a few thoughts...
Perhaps every thing I had done worked like it was supposed to and fixed the problem.
Perhaps it just needed time to finish cycling,
Perhaps I needed to allow it to grow and starve itself out, instead of physically removing it weekly when I did a PWC.

The point is, even if some one has a tank exactly like yours, with the same fish, rock, substrate, etc,,, what works in their tank might not work in yours, and what works in yours, might be the very wrong thing to do in yours.

Not all LFS's are bad, but the best advice ever, is for you to do the homework and research, then you will have an idea if someone is trying to sell you BLINKER-FLUID (car maintenance reference LOL)

Any way, like I said, these are just some fo my thoughts as a fellow new guy. I hope the old salts will add comments and or criticism to support or disprove my opinions.

Good luck and understand that even if you do every thing right, the tank might not cooperate.

Sorry this is long winded, but I work nights and have had too much coffee LOL

Wade
 
Hey thanks a lot for all that stainless!

Well, today I bought the saltwater liquid master test kit at petsmart and now i need help with that:

For the PH i got something like 7.8-8.0 :( What should I do? I have that buffer junk I can throw in there but I thought I would ask first, being as I put it in initially.

For the Ammonia I had issues figuring it out. What happened was (i did it twice) the water turned really cloudy and so the color looks like its reading 0 ppm but with the cloudiness, it makes it dark so it looks almost like .25 or .50... Does anyone else have this issue? What do you make of it?

For the Nitrite, I got a clear 0 ppm. So all good there.

For the Nitrate, i got about 20 ppm...I'm not sure if this is good or bad?

So what I am I looking at? I hate that some look great and some look like hell (cough ph cough).

Thanks again!
 
The AP test kits are pretty reliable for the basic nh3, no2, & no3 tests. I’ve always noticed slight cloudiness with the nh3 test as well when first cycling a tank. If you have 0 no2 then more than likely your nh3 is 0 as well since even a cloudy reading usually still has some color to it if it’s not. The cloudiness of the nh3 test should clear up in another week or two.

As far as a ph of 7.8-8.0 that really isn’t that far off from where you want to be (8.0-8.3). Again a slightly lower ph is not that uncommon for a new tank and should level out after a couple of more pwc. If you do decide to use the buffer you can just add it to the tank if you don’t have any fish, otherwise mix it up in water before adding and use small amounts each day till you reach the level you want.

A 20 ppm no3 test is about as high as you want to get with fo or fowlr. For shrimp I’d get it below 10 ppm and for corals (6+ months) you want it <2.5 ppm. A couple of 20% pwc should get you to a respectable level in the next month or two.
 
Ok cool. So it sounds like I'm going in the right direction. Yesterday, I bought these two items:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7737908337&rd=1&sspagename=STRK:MEWN:IT&rd=1
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/Product/Prod_Display.cfm?pcatid=3781&N=2004+113765 (30 inch)

So, I think by the time I get those here and set up, I should be ok for a cleanup crew? Should I start doing waterchanges now? Should I take the remains of my shrimp out? How much and how often should I be change water? 20%....a week or so?

Thanks!
 
It’s been 3 weeks so your tank might be cycled but I would wait another week or so just to be sure your nh3/no2 reading are really 0. I’d leave the shrimp in as long as they are small for the next week and then do a 50% pwc to drop your no3 level down. By then a small clean up crew would be a good start along with 1 fish. Wait a week or two in between adding fish so your tank can adjust to them.

I’d keep the back part of that glass cover off (back plastic strip) so your tank doesn’t build up CO2. Lights look pretty decent, but since it was used for 6 months you will have to replace the bulbs soon. I was also surprised it didn’t state total wattage but it’s probably 2X65 or 130w total like this one on toofishy.com
 
kylebacc said:
How much and how often should I be change water? 20%....a week or so?

Missed that one. 10%-20% a week would be great. I wouldn’t do more than 20% once you get your no3 under control and as long as you don’t overstock/overfeed your tank 10% a week should be adequate.
 
OK cool, thanks for the advice...how often am I going to have to change these bulbs? What do they run for?

Thanks!
 
When/if you get corals you will want to change them out around every 9-12 months due to them loosing intensity. Since currently you only have a fo setup I wouldn’t worry about it right now. For cost you will be looking at around $20-$25 for each bulb depending on where you buy them.
 
Oh ok, so right before I get my corals I will change them out :)

As for my cleanup crew, what should I get? I want things that are active, and cool looking at the same time. I saw this red shrimp with white stripes at my LFS. Any comments on it? Know what it is? How many snails, shrimp etc should I be getting?

Thanks!
 
well depending on the shrimp, it could have been a peppermint or a coral banded shrimp. how far apart were the stripes? (peppermint are very close together, have to look cloes, and the coral banded is more boldhttp://www.liveaquaria.com/product/scateg.cfm?pCatId=525 ) it is usually suggested that its a snail per gal.
 
I donno, it kinda looks like that blood red fire one, but with two thin white stripes. I suppose I'll just have to go back to the LFS to see.

Anyway, one snail per gallon? So 29 snails? That seems really really excessive?
 
I have heard that bumblebees are carnivores and will kill other snails. I could be wrong.

Nassarius are good (live in sand) and so are Astreas (range over glass/rock). Turbos are fine, but personally I think they're ugly and have thusfar avoided them. Ceriths are good too (sand dwellers mostly).

You want a good mix. You may be able to find a deal on a starter pack. Just be sure you don't get too much at once or they will all starve.

29 snails is not excessive when you see how small most of them are.

I would avoid shrimp for a few months. They're harder to take care of. Instead consider some reef safe hermit crabs.

THe cleaning crew can and should be built over time if you have a mostly bare tank.
 
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