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Old 04-01-2008, 02:13 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by jjarbo1 View Post
My nitrites and nitrates are pretty elevated so they might be affecting the test. It is also a closed top so I will keep that in mind. I did put two powerheads in and opened the air intakes to aerate the water to try to raise the pH, but it didn't do much.

I'll just be patient and wait for things to stabilize. Thanks all!
Using the bubbler feature in the powerheads won't really aerate a SW tank... just make a bunch of microbubbles!

All tanks that are cycling go whacko on the pH. It just all due to the massive amount of biological activity that's going on in there. Since there's nothing in your tank, consistancy in water parameters isn't an issue. Once you finish the cycle and do several water changes to get you nitrates back down, your pH will even out. THEN... if you have issues, start tracking down the source.

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Old 04-01-2008, 10:12 AM   #12
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I agree with Kurt. That lid will also keep the pH low, since the O2 exchange occurs on the surface of the water in SW.

Age is relative, you are only as old as you act....of course, this works in reverse....

Questions loved, heeded advice greatly appreciated!

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Good reading about:
Nitrogen Cycle
Fishless Cycling
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Old 04-01-2008, 10:40 AM   #13
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I guess my point is just ignore pH during your cycle.

Lid or no lid, excess CO2 in the house, not enough aeration, junk salt mix, overstocking, misreading colors on a pH test, day or night... shoot there are tons of things that can drive down pH. But trying to troubleshoot them during a cycle is pointless.

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cycle, drop

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