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Old 03-31-2014, 08:12 PM   #21
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Yes that would be a good test kit to have for a reef. I would still think about securing them big tank = big fish and big fish knocking over a rock = possible flood
i will consider it on my next water change
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Old 03-31-2014, 08:14 PM   #22
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Depends on size and frequency of wc's IMO
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Old 03-31-2014, 08:18 PM   #23
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Possibly dosing but it would depend on water changes and you'd have to see how much calcium/alkalinity is used
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Old 04-04-2014, 04:47 PM   #24
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leds came in. i got the 165watt evergrow leds on ebay. packaged very well and appears to be made well. they are stupid bright!!






does anybody have these inside their canopy? trying figure out which way i want to attach them inside..

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Old 04-04-2014, 04:53 PM   #25
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also, the tank came with a glass cover that goes on top of the tank. should i put those back in or no?
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Old 04-04-2014, 06:22 PM   #26
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You are going to want the tops of those fixtures far enough away from the top of the canopy so you can adjust the intensity, and so the fans aren't obstructed. I suggest cutting holes in the top of the canopy and either sitting the fixtures on top, or mounting them flush with the top so that you can reach over and adjust them. Obviously the sides can't be obstructed either, because that's where the air exhausts from, but you could use this as a dual purpose- To cool the fixture, and also bring fresh air into the canopy.
I would not use the glass tops.
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Old 04-04-2014, 06:48 PM   #27
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You are going to want the tops of those fixtures far enough away from the top of the canopy so you can adjust the intensity, and so the fans aren't obstructed. I suggest cutting holes in the top of the canopy and either sitting the fixtures on top, or mounting them flush with the top so that you can reach over and adjust them. Obviously the sides can't be obstructed either, because that's where the air exhausts from, but you could use this as a dual purpose- To cool the fixture, and also bring fresh air into the canopy.
I would not use the glass tops.
thank you very much for chiming in. i'd want the cutting part to be the last resort. im open to it but i'd rather not you know? its a very nice mohagony wood. i remember you said through pms that it should be 10'' away from the water. im looking at 6 1/2'' clearance from led to water without cutting, and 2'' clearance from canopy led fan. would that be enough? the canopy has two fans and the back part is open. i assume thats enough airflow? the led has 3 fans in it as well.

also, should i put some kind of mesh cover on the open back part of the canopy(since its open) to prevent fish from falling out incase they've seen finding nemo?

im glad i went full spectrum. ive seen full spectrum vs white/blues only at lfs's and i prefer the look of the full spectrum. just one of those to each your own things.
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Old 04-04-2014, 06:57 PM   #28
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As long as they aren't getting splashed with salt water the distance is ok, providing your optics don't make it look like 2 spotlights.
Yes, if you want you can add some pond netting or something to keep jumpers in.
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Old 04-04-2014, 07:02 PM   #29
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As long as they aren't getting splashed with salt water the distance is ok, providing your optics don't make it look like 2 spotlights.
Yes, if you want you can add some pond netting or something to keep jumpers in.
ok thanks. they are 90 with optical lens. have 3 of em like you recommended. should be fine right? haha

wont be able to tell about the water splashing till i get the powerheads. not a lot of water movement right now.
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Old 04-04-2014, 07:13 PM   #30
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Oops,....yeah..you need 3. It's plenty of light. You'll just have to see how the optics look over the tank.
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