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Old 06-19-2008, 11:38 AM   #61
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Oh, and yes, you can test the cycle in the QT before you add fish. If you do bring over the live rock, there's a chance that will work. If you keep the QT bare, it will certainly not be cycled, even if you use water from the main aquarium and use an instant cycle product.

To test, or start a fishless cycle, add an overly generous helping of food, or use a more refined ammonia source to bring the ammonia level up to 4ppm, and see how long it takes to go down to 0. (Food will take a day to break down and spike ammonia levels. If you don't see ammonia levels increase the next day, add more food than you did the day before. A pure ammonia source should be testable right away.)
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Old 06-19-2008, 11:50 AM   #62
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Dai,

I think you're missing the point... if you cycle the quarantine tank, that will take just as long as cycling the main tank. And it sounds like your main tank really isn't cycled, so there's no cycled media to put in the quarantine tank. And you want the rock and sand in your main tank because that is what you will be cycling - the bacteria live there... not in the water.

The reason folks suggested the QT setup was because it will be easier to keep the water cleaner because the tank capacity is smaller. You are going to end up with ammonia in the QT, but you can do 20-30% water changes in it daily to keep the levels reasonable. Keeping the QT bare with no rock or sand makes it easier to suck out excess food/poop/etc to keep the waste levels down.
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Old 06-19-2008, 12:31 PM   #63
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Exactly , be that the sump (after isolating it) or a new tank you want to call your QT
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Old 06-19-2008, 01:26 PM   #64
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Hi all,

The reason why I thought about checking the cycle in the QT is because I still have a blenny in the main tank (impossible to retrieve) and bunch of corals on rocks that are too big to be placed on my 10 gallon tank. Everyday I put some pieces of raw shrimps in the main tank but I have yet to see a spike.Dai
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Old 06-19-2008, 03:42 PM   #65
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I think I've heard one raw shrimp per 30 gallons if you're doing the shrimp method.
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Old 06-19-2008, 04:38 PM   #66
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Hi all,

The reason why I thought about checking the cycle in the QT is because I still have a blenny in the main tank (impossible to retrieve) and bunch of corals on rocks that are too big to be placed on my 10 gallon tank. Everyday I put some pieces of raw shrimps in the main tank but I have yet to see a spike.Dai

Guess I missed the part where you said you had corals. That puts a different spin on the story...

Regardless... that main tank has to be cycled. Period. There's no way around it. Maybe it has cycled already, but it sure doesn't sound like it. If you introduce an ammonia source (raw shrimp) and you don't see any ammonia, BUT you instead see an increase in nitrates then your tank has cycled. You should be testing for ammonia, nitrites, AND nitrates each day. Write those numbers down each day. After a week, you should know where you're at - if no ammonia/nitrite, but your nitrates slowly increase then you're cycled. If you see ammonia/nitrite, but no change in nitrates, then you're still cycling.
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Old 06-19-2008, 04:48 PM   #67
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Guess I missed the part where you said you had corals. That puts a different spin on the story...

Regardless... that main tank has to be cycled. Period. There's no way around it. Maybe it has cycled already, but it sure doesn't sound like it. If you introduce an ammonia source (raw shrimp) and you don't see any ammonia, BUT you instead see an increase in nitrates then your tank has cycled. You should be testing for ammonia, nitrites, AND nitrates each day. Write those numbers down each day. After a week, you should know where you're at - if no ammonia/nitrite, but your nitrates slowly increase then you're cycled. If you see ammonia/nitrite, but no change in nitrates, then you're still cycling.
Hi,

I just checked my water and NO2/3 are still 0. Ammonia is still 0 too. SG = 1.025 and Ph is 8.3. I also had the water retested and the same reading still. I was advised by the LFS today that " Trust us. Your tank IS cycled. Absolutely no questions about it!". I am not saying I do not trust what I have told on here but just to let you all know what I was advised. Dai
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Old 06-19-2008, 05:20 PM   #68
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0/0/0 makes no sense. If you were not cycled, one of the first two numbers would be non-zero, if you were cycled, the last number would be non-zero.

I do more with freshwater than salt lately. If this was a freshwater planted tank I'd say you had a nitrogen limited growth condition, and your plants were sopping up the nitrogen as fast as it is produced. Do you have a PO4 (phosphate) test kit? If so, then I'd expect a nitrogen limited tank to test positive for PO4.

You said you had algae, how much? Can you take pictures?

Even if that is the case, there is something "fishy" with your water. You are using premixed saltwater from the LFS, and you reported the fish behaving better right after a water change, so that water is probably good. What are you using for topoff water?
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Old 06-19-2008, 08:19 PM   #69
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It can take about a week or so for measurable ammonia to show up, once the shrimp is introduced. Be patient. Most likely, nothing is wrong with your water.

If your LFS is correct, then you'll see nitrates show up with no ammonia or nitrites. And then you are good to go.

If your LFS is wrong, then you'll see ammonia show up, followed by nitrites, and finally nitrates. When ammonia and nitrites to to zero, then you are good to go.

Same end result.
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Old 06-20-2008, 09:37 AM   #70
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0/0/0 makes no sense. If you were not cycled, one of the first two numbers would be non-zero, if you were cycled, the last number would be non-zero.

I do more with freshwater than salt lately. If this was a freshwater planted tank I'd say you had a nitrogen limited growth condition, and your plants were sopping up the nitrogen as fast as it is produced. Do you have a PO4 (phosphate) test kit? If so, then I'd expect a nitrogen limited tank to test positive for PO4.

You said you had algae, how much? Can you take pictures?

Even if that is the case, there is something "fishy" with your water. You are using premixed saltwater from the LFS, and you reported the fish behaving better right after a water change, so that water is probably good. What are you using for topoff water?
Hello,

I went back to the LFS and had my water tested again. And again, the water was deemed to be "outstanding" and ready for all kinds of corals and fish. I inquired about what I was advised regarding delayed cycle so they summoned another person in the store who is considered expert in SW. After consultation on my set up, all three members agreed that the water without any possible doubts that it is cycled. I then inquired about the cause of death of the Tang, the feather duster and the unwell being of the two clowns. I was told that likely it is due to the way that the fish were collected by cyanide (bought from other LFS) and their demise had nothing to do with water quality. I also inquired about the lack of ammonia,NO2,NO3 spike and I was told that with a LS,LR set up and only 3 fish, the spike will not be evident.
Now, regarding my tank. The two clowns are still alive but hanging at the upper end corner. The blenny comes in and out few hours a day to feed. There were blown algae appeared in last few days but now completetly gone. I think the snails clean it up. It should be noted that after I removed 30 gallons and top it off with premixed LFS water 3 days ago, the clowns turned ill and the feather duster died. They got worse, NOT better and I think the change was too much for them. I think my situation deserves to be looked at closely as it is a good learning experience for all of us. I will take photos and post them here so we can all look at it. Regarding top off water, I use RO bought from the LFS. Dai
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