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Old 07-30-2007, 11:15 AM   #11
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Thank you melosu58 you have been a GREAT help as well. I actually saw that article in a link that you provided in another thread as I searching. I had found little use of the information up until that point...the link was a TREMENDOUS help and again THANK YOU lol!!!

Is that pretty much a standard time to wait to add anemones? Are their any other waiting periods that I should be aware of before adding livestock, etc other than the obvious one of cycling?
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Old 07-30-2007, 12:58 PM   #12
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Yes that amount of time should give your tank enough time to mature and stabilize. As far as everything else start with easy corals and fish and go slow to alow your bioload to catch up.
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Old 07-30-2007, 02:03 PM   #13
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What all contributes to the bioload in a saltater tank? I mean, how many fish (inches of adult) can I have in a 29 gallon tank (assuming they are compatible)? Does it depend on corals and anemones/inverts as well that may be in there? I was thinking 3-5 smaller ones including 2 clowns if I can get that to work. The other ones would be smaller than clowns or nearly the same size.
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Old 07-30-2007, 02:14 PM   #14
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Although fish tend to make up the majority of your bioload, technically everything contributes including invertebrates. A pair of clowns (not P. biaculeatus or A. frenatus) and a couple other fish would be fine.
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Old 07-30-2007, 02:30 PM   #15
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Does this tank have a canopy? You can get by with a Metal Halide retrofit kit and incorporate it into the canopy.

http://www.hellolights.com/index.asp...OD&ProdID=1324

Otherwise, I would go with HO T5 over PC bulbs. Deeper penetration to the substrate, longer life, higher intensity, cheaper to replace.

Are you ditching the 60 gal idea now and going with a 29 gallon?
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Old 07-30-2007, 02:56 PM   #16
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Innovator - I was thinking of Ocellaris or possibly Percula. I also like some of them that get a little larger like the cinnamon but realize it wouldn't be feasible for what I want to do.

Lindsay - I am thinking about going with a 29 and it doesn't have a canopy. I would most likely place a Versa-top over the aquarium and set the lights on that. Thanks for the suggestion with the T-5's...I will keep those in mind over the PC's.
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Old 07-30-2007, 03:08 PM   #17
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Percs or Ocellaris would be fine as would any other of the small-med. species. Many lights including T5's come as a hooded system with optional legs so the fixture can stand on the rim and not obstruct anything or hang from the ceiling. Look at reefgeek.com for Teks.
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Old 07-30-2007, 05:56 PM   #18
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I was just thinking about something. It's almost near impossible to find a 30" T5 fixture (standard 29 gallon size). If you went up to something in the 30s you'd probably have a lot more luck finding a fixture and the tank should only cost you about $5 - $10 more dollars. Dunno why 36" fixtures so much more common when 29 gallon tanks are so popular, but whatever.

I agree with Innovator. If you go with a T5 or PC unit they pretty much all come on legs or ways to mount from the ceiling. Leaning the lights on top is something you want to avoid, unlike a freshwater tank. Closed or semi-closed tops in saltwater aquariums means trapped CO2 which drives pH down. Open tops are the way to go in my opinion.
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Old 07-30-2007, 06:59 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Devilishturtles
Leaning the lights on top is something you want to avoid, unlike a freshwater tank.
Plus, I've heard stories of folks putting high wattage PC fixtures (like you're talking about) right on top of the glass tops, and having the glass shatter due to the heat. Haven't witnessed it myself, but with no air flow between the bulbs and glass, I don't have a hard time believing it.
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Old 07-30-2007, 08:30 PM   #20
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Good points made by both of you.

I looked at the T5's and found the same thing....seems like fixtures are only available in even foot lengths for some reason....may up the tank size.
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