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Old 12-11-2005, 02:17 PM   #11
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I have taken a picture of my tank with one of the light boxes on. I only have one done so I can only test it with one. (see picture below). You can see that it covers at least half the tank (the blocks holding it up are blocking some of the light).

I picked these lights/reflectors/ballests up for $90 each, so it was quite a bit cheaper than any other MH option I've seen.

I'm not sure what coral bleaching is, so please elaborate on that. Otherwise, for the cost, I need to figure out a way to make these lights work.

Brenden, I appreciate the PM, but that's a very expensive option that I just cannot afford right now.

These lights are also about 9in closer to the water line than they will be in my canopy.

http://img485.imageshack.us/my.php?i...scn02333wv.jpg
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Old 12-11-2005, 02:33 PM   #12
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No problem. I have 6 of the sun replicator pendants on my tank and I am very happy. If you have already purchased the lights then it only makes sense to make them work.
Coral beaching is the same as something faded in the sun. The 400w MH are very intense and corals will fade unless they are placed far enough away from the light. Since your tank is not tall this may be something you want to look at.
If it were me I would cover the inside of the wood box with aluminum flashing. Is is very cheap at lowes or HD. I am not comfortable with high heat items next to wood. I would cut a hole on the end of the box and put a 4" "computer" fan to keep the bulb cool. I would also look into purchasing some small fans to blow on the water. I bought two 10" personal fans at lowes cheap. It is doable you just need to make sure you have enough cooling in place.
Why are you using a box instead of just putting the lights in the canopy? Seems like they will just hold heat. I had retros at one time. I put a spacer between the reflector and just screwed them to wood. That way there was a air space between it.
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Old 12-11-2005, 02:42 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brenden
No problem. I have 6 of the sun replicator pendants on my tank and I am very happy. If you have already purchased the lights then it only makes sense to make them work.
Coral beaching is the same as something faded in the sun. The 400w MH are very intense and corals will fade unless they are placed far enough away from the light. Since your tank is not tall this may be something you want to look at.
If it were me I would cover the inside of the wood box with aluminum flashing. Is is very cheap at lowes or HD. I am not comfortable with high heat items next to wood. I would cut a hole on the end of the box and put a 4" "computer" fan to keep the bulb cool. I would also look into purchasing some small fans to blow on the water. I bought two 10" personal fans at lowes cheap. It is doable you just need to make sure you have enough cooling in place.
Why are you using a box instead of just putting the lights in the canopy? Seems like they will just hold heat. I had retros at one time. I put a spacer between the reflector and just screwed them to wood. That way there was a air space between it.
I appreciate your insights into cooling. I only put the lights in a box because that is how I've seen them be sold (usually it's a metal box though. If I don't need the box and you're saying I can place them directly in my canopy then I will defiantly go that route.
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Old 12-11-2005, 02:48 PM   #14
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Sounds like a plan. Would be easier to cool that way. Put a spacer between the reflector and the canopy. If nothing more than a couple washers on the screws you use to mount them.
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Old 12-11-2005, 02:52 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brenden
Sounds like a plan. Would be easier to cool that way. Put a spacer between the reflector and the canopy. If nothing more than a couple washers on the screws you use to mount them.
I'm sort of glad that I don't need the box now. When I was building it, I was thinking to myself how nice it'd be to have a box like this to hold misc pieces of wood. Now I have one.
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Old 12-13-2005, 01:43 PM   #16
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I've been testing the one light I have the last few days to determine what I can expect in temp increase. My 120 gal is heating up approx 4 degrees over the 9 hours I've had the light on. This increase is happening without any fans blowing on the tank or expelling hot air from the box. The light itself is also about 6in closer to the water line than it will be when my canopy is completed.

The bulb for my second retro kit is in the mail so soon I'll be able to test it with two lights.

The canopy will be completed and ready to be painted by the end of this weekend hopefully, and then ready for the tank by about the 22nd I hope.
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Old 12-13-2005, 01:56 PM   #17
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You don't need to run your MH for any longer than 6 hours a day. Keep in mind that the summer months are going to be harder on the heat retention than the winter months (try running your heat at 76 while the MH are on).

Raising the 400w MH up higher over the tank is definitely going to help with the light spread and keep the dark areas under control. By adding a PC/VHO fixture into the canopy you can mask the effects. The canopy should help contain any overspray of the light.

You'll probably want to start your corals low in your system and move them up over the course of weeks as they become acclimated to the stronger lights (new ones as well unless they were kept high under 400s originally). Some LPS and Monti species will want to stay on the bottom as they don't really like a lot of light to begin with.

Coralvu makes a ReeFlux bulb for the 400w MH in a 10K that is supposed to be out of this world for color and growth. I run 250s over my 120, but know others who've run 400s over a 30" tank with no ill effects.
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Old 12-25-2005, 02:32 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hara
Quote:
Originally Posted by greenmaji
. it sounds kinda risky to have overpowered MH but what do I know
I must have missed something. From where do we know it is going to be overpowered? I agree that more watts will not increase coverage. The other thing to note is that if you plan on raising the height of the bulbs, you will get a nasty glare in the room. Heat most definitely will be an issue. You will not want to have any glass on the tank that will trap the heat in for sure. You may even need fans for the water. Or a chiller.
Maybe I was assuming too much.. isnt a 120 gallon only like 24 inches deep?

you would need to use sheilding to prevent the uber glare and it might not be attractive..

side note: the mention of the ciller made me think of this.. Ive had an idea for a DIY chiller as of late (though I really dont think I would need one exactly I just figured out a really good way to do it.. :P )
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Old 12-25-2005, 02:36 PM   #19
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btw.. I just remembered there are two 120's..
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