Question With API Test Kit

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an interest in aquariums or fish keeping!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.

CleverBs

Aquarium Advice Addict
Joined
Aug 21, 2011
Messages
2,210
Location
Omaha, Nebraska
So im testing Ammonia and the water in the tube keeps turning a murky lime green. Is this normal? if not why is this happening? its color dosent match any color on the chat either.
 
My API test kit will do that for 0 ammonia. It looks cloudy dark yellow/green, but not green enough to match the ammonia readings. You should check it on RODI water and newly mixed saltwater to make sure it is actually a 0 reading.

Your pH is fine. As long as it stays in a stable range. I was taught this here when I tried to buffer and couldn't keep it stable. I go from 7.9 to 8.1 throughout the day.
 
Ok ill test my water from ky ro/di system last time I checked a week ago it all read 0s. But you described the water in the tube perfectly. I put in 20lbs of live sand, 7-9 lbs of live Rick and 2 damsels and the readings are ammonia 0, nirate -0, nitrite - 15 could my tank be cycled already?
 
How long has it been?

I think your ammonia has spiked and reached 0. Now your bacteria for converting nitrites to nitrates is building. This will spike as well before you have many nitrates. You want 0 nitrItes. Did you mix up the nitrite/nitrate readings?

I'm not familiar with cycling with fish though I imagine it wouldn't be much different.
 
How long has it been?

I think your ammonia has spiked and reached 0. Now your bacteria for converting nitrites to nitrates is building. This will spike as well before you have many nitrates. You want 0 nitrItes. Did you mix up the nitrite/nitrate readings?

I'm not familiar with cycling with fish though I imagine it wouldn't be much different.

sorry i always get nitrIte and NitrAte confused its Nitrites- 0 Nitrates - 15

tanks been set up like 5 days...so I cant imagine its cycled already. I know that SW tanks can cycle quickly sometimes but idk if that quickly.
 
I think you might have an actual ammonia reading. Seems your nitrates would be higher after a cycle.
 
so i tested my RO/DI water it came out yellow and clear. when testing my SW tank it becomes murky as soon as I put the 2nd bottle of ammonia solution into the test tube. after letting it sit its still yellow, this is worrying me a bit, makes me feel like my cycle has not started yet even. Nitrite is at 0 Nitrate is at 20
 
The API test kits are a little difficult to read sometimes. See if your LFS can test your water with a more reliable test like one made by salifert. Also if it comes back as you have 0 in ammonia and nitrite but have nitrates it means your tank is cycled. If you cycle the tank with a damsel it usually speeds the process up to a matter of a week instead of multiple weeks if everything goes well.
 
Same situation here. Day 6 and greenish yellow merky color for ammonia. PH - 7.9 Nitrites - 0 Nitrates - 10. I have a 65 gallon tank with 25 lbs of live rock 25 lbs of base rock and 60 lbs of live sand (about 3 inches deep). I have 2 rio 1700 pumps for flow. Any help would be great. Thanks.
 
The greenish murky yellow color based on the color card is equivalent to 0.0. So its good there. But I've always thought that API is poorly made test kits for saltwater purposes. As long as your ammonia and nitrite read zero and you have nitrate your tank is fully cycled.

Just remember to not go crazy and buy a whole bunch of fish to add to the tank because you will crash it as the beneficial bacteria in the tank will not be able to keep up with the bio-load. My best rule of thumb is after the tank is cycled with the damsel, don't add anymore fish for 2-3 weeks as to let it settle down chemistry wise. After that wait period remove the damsel as they are terrorists, bullies and territorial fish and put another hardy fish that's on your list into the tank (i.e. clown fish pair, or wrasse). Allow another 2-3 weeks in between adding fish and no more than 3 fish per time you add. (if you like the look of damsels and want them add them last in your tank after the other fish have had a month or so to establish their territory so the damsels wont mess anything up) Also 1" of fish per 2-3 gallons
 
xxStLxx said:
The greenish murky yellow color based on the color card is equivalent to 0.0. So its good there. But I've always thought that API is poorly made test kits for saltwater purposes. As long as your ammonia and nitrite read zero and you have nitrate your tank is fully cycled.

Just remember to not go crazy and buy a whole bunch of fish to add to the tank because you will crash it as the beneficial bacteria in the tank will not be able to keep up with the bio-load. My best rule of thumb is after the tank is cycled with the damsel, don't add anymore fish for 2-3 weeks as to let it settle down chemistry wise. After that wait period remove the damsel as they are terrorists, bullies and territorial fish and put another hardy fish that's on your list into the tank (i.e. clown fish pair, or wrasse). Allow another 2-3 weeks in between adding fish and no more than 3 fish per time you add. (if you like the look of damsels and want them add them last in your tank after the other fish have had a month or so to establish their territory so the damsels wont mess anything up) Also 1" of fish per 2-3 gallons

The x fish per y gallons " rule " has been proved over and over and over again to be complete Oscar poop.
 
Back
Top Bottom