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Old 03-01-2006, 09:20 PM   #21
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with my setup, do i need to have powerhead/s?
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Old 03-02-2006, 01:05 AM   #22
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Powerheads allways gonna help with water circulation ... and yes you need that happening in your tank or you could find dead zones that bad algae can grow and cause other problems, Being that your using the FX5 , you will want one power head alone pointing toward the surface to break the water. Another 1 or 2 at different hieghts pointing along back and one pointed toward the front of tank. Depending on how much live rock you end up with and how you aquascape it ... what you ultimatly want is to avoid dead zones where things can settle or build up.
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Old 03-04-2006, 12:05 AM   #23
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just checked my water values today:

ph: 7.8 ammonia: 8.0 nitrite:2.0 nitrate: 20

at what stage of the cycling process am i? am in good shape? i have 3 raw, rotting shrimps on the tank by the way.
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Old 03-04-2006, 12:19 AM   #24
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once your ammonia and nitrite is zero you can start slowly adding fish. probably 2 to start with.

you will only have enough denitrifying bacteria to deal with the amount of ammonia that your tank is producing without living fish which is from the raw shrimp, so you need to add slowly in order to increase your "processing" power of the fish wastes. to many fish at once will overload your bacterial system.

I assume you already know this, but in case you don't....

the raw shrimp produce ammonia as it rots, with an abundance of ammonia (toxic) in the water, a plethora of ammonia consuming bacteria is able to be colonized. the byproduct/waste of this bacteria is nitrite (toxic), once that is plentiful, a new colony of nitrite consuming bacteria is able to fluorish and its waste is nitrate, (not toxic to fish, but can be to corals). so once your ammonia and nitrite are undetectable, you are good to go, but you wanna minimize your nitrate, with the DSP, refugium etc....

HTH,

sorry if you weren't looking for that much detail.

Ryan
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Old 03-04-2006, 01:37 AM   #25
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appreciate your input very much.. .

decided to add powerheads. any brand you guys would suggest? im planning to get this:

http://www.petsmart.com/global/produ...N=2030138&Ne=2 is this any good? how bout comparing to AQUACLEAR?

reason i am bent on putting powerheads is because i think the output from my filter is not that adequate because of the filters ive put in.. i am assuming with the filters i have the flow of water is somewhat decreased?
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Old 03-04-2006, 01:43 AM   #26
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I haven't heard a ton of good things about the zoomed. I think the idea is cool, but the delivery may not be as good as you hope.

maxi-jet seems to be #1 for powerheads. putting the powerheads in is a good idea. you should be ok with 2 maxi-jet 1200's and then see how your flow is for dead spots, and adjust accordingly.
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Old 03-04-2006, 08:30 PM   #27
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just got back form a different lfs. the guys there are wondering how somebody (from the lfs that i got my tank and filter canister) would suggest a canister for a saltwater tank. guy was very adamant that canister is no good. is this true. is this a time for me to press the panic button?

help please.. so i can call lfs where i got the tank and filter and see if i could have it exchanged...
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Old 03-04-2006, 08:41 PM   #28
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Well, you'll find that most people on here don't use them. to say they're not recommended, is not true either. They are typically used on fish only tanks that aren't going to have LR in the tank. If you plan on a reef or FOWLR, then most would say not to use the canister at all..... they require lots of maintenance and monitoring. LR and a DSB is the natural way to get a more effective form of filtration. That combined with a QUALITY skimmer, and you'll be laughin'. I would say that the vast majority employ that school of thought towards reef keeping. LR, DSB and a skimmer. The canister becomes nothing more than a nuissance if you plan on 1.5 to 2 lbs of LR per gallon.

Ryan
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Old 03-04-2006, 08:47 PM   #29
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ryguy thanks for the input.. but are you suggesting a wet-dry filter is better?

also, i do have live rock on the tank right now, which makes it a FOWLR for now i guess... and probably REEF in the future..

Quote:
Well, you'll find that most people on here don't use them
by them you mean CANISTER or WET-DRY?
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Old 03-04-2006, 09:27 PM   #30
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Quote:
the guys there are wondering how somebody (from the lfs that i got my tank and filter canister) would suggest a canister for a saltwater tank.
I didn't know you we're asking about a wet-dry. I was just talking about a canister filter.

My recommendation is exactly this for your set-up..... (I think you'll find it the "standard" and be the happiest in the long run for an overall system set-up)

putting budget aside, it's as follows:

- 200 lbs of LR
- 3" DSB
- the biggest sump you can fit within your stand beneath the main tank.
- something like an Aqua-C EV-180 (plumbed into the sump)
- possibly a refugium if interested, but not neccesary (can be a compartment within sump if enough room)
- closed loop set-up for a powerhead-free display tank ( this would have a pvc pipe within the main tank that would siphon out water to a pump that would just return it and you could use a few 90 deg. or 45 deg. pvc fittings only slightly submerged to create a specific flow pattern.)

All your heaters, and other unsightly stuff gets housed in the sump.

You don't need a canister or wet-dry filter with this set-up, your LR and DSB would be doing all the work, and if you hucked on a refugium as well (totally DIY) you'd have an extra nitrate removing factory, plus an area to increase your pod population in case you wanted a fish like a mandarin or something.

just my thoughts though, but it makes the most sense IMO.

Ryan
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