The CPR bakpak is what I've used, though on another tank I use an Ecosystem 40 refugium and found it has much better results. The outflow of the filtered water is diffeent considering with a refugium the cycle of proteins isn't cut short by mechanically removing proteins (as with skimmers), but rather utilizing the proteins and naturally breaking them down.
In a 30 gallon tank anemones would need at the very least 90 watts of lighting, but 120 to 150 watts is more preferred for optimal health. Best acheived with power compacts rather than regular flourescents. Live rock will grow things according to the lighting provided. Remnants of corals and algae will sprout eventually. Low lighting, you'll get low lighting growth...high lights will give you high light growths.
Clownfish do not need an anemone and there are many cases where clowns have actually ignored anemones in their tanks. On the flip side, I witnessed a clown fish take to a fake plant as if it were an anemone...wiggling in and out of it and even so much as trying to shove food into whatever mouth the fish thought it had...LOL.
Just to note...damsels are all but tiny...except for when they are juvenile...and make great pests to the tank inhabitants to some degree or another. If you want other fish with the clown besides damsels, then introduce the damsels after everyone else is well established. The chromis family of damsels are less aggresive than the other types. Do look into their adult sizes. Some can get an impressive size to go along with their impressive attitudes.
Since you've been out of the hobby for quite some time, I'd advise to read before diving in again. Much has changed and lots more is known about keeping them not just healthy, but happy too. There are lots of really good marine books out there. Julian Sprung is a good author. Gretak (spell???) is another. Axlrod too. Ask questions even if you think they may be dumb questions...no such thing as a dumb question here.
Typical reef set up would be best rather than fish only. The live rock makes a big difference. You could go without extending too much of an expense on live rock by using base rock then get a few pieces of live rock to seed the base rock...all that great bacteria and microflora and fauna will spread. Water quality is the key to fish keeping rather than caring for the individual fish. Make sure to have a reliable test kit that will test for at least ammonia, nitrite, nitrate and pH. If you plan on having any coral or anemones, I'd advise having calcium and alkalinity test kits as well.
The tank can be cycled with live sand and live rock. Generally takes about two weeks to a month for the set up to be ready for livestock. If partial base rock is used...add about another two weeks to the cycle establishment time. Once ready (ammonia and nitrite levels will read zero with nitrates reading less than 25 ppm
...prefered levels 10 to 15 ppm
, start with getting a maintenance crew of hermit crabs, snails and shrimp. Wait a week or so, then start placing in the ornamental fish...the ones you want. One at a time and lesser aggressives in first will allow bio to adjust and lessen risk of unwanted attacks on newbie fish.
A QT is highly advised. A simple small 5 to 10 gallon tank...bare bottom with a sponge filter, a heater and non porous ornaments to serve as hide outs. Bare bottom and non porous ornaments, because if there's a parasite problem that comes up, there won't be all those little crannies the bugs can hide in...makes for more effective treatment if that happens). Newly purchased fish should stay in the QT for at least a week...two weeks preferred prior to going into the main tank. If the fish becomes sick, it can be treated right in the QT. This prevents from having the entire tank come down with problems and protects your investment.
Again...READ READ READ!! Your best defense is a great offense filled with knowledge...
Welcome back to the hobby