Shoe string start up and simple to try out the salty side...

[Autumnsky]

This is a long post... Can anyone help a SW newbie???

I have been kinda collecting some stuff for a SW.

The tank is still up for debate as I am wanting to get rid of one or 2 FW tanks to thin out the collection.

Possibly getting a 70G tall cube 32" wide x 28" tall x 18" front to back. Just trying to decide if hubby would notice the 37G turning into a 70G...

Or could be a 16G bowfront or a 37G JEBO which I already own

***************

So far this is what I have

API standard test kit
Tank of some sort/size mentioned above.

About a half or so 5G bucket of reef rock very dried not recently used/seems fairly porous.
About 8 different coral skeletons very dry not recently used or dead

About 8" in a 5G bucket of crushed coral.

Some rocks, 2 large lace rocks which seem like conctete type toughness and one fluffy holey one with a circle in the middle and breaks apart very easily

AC110 Filter.

A half 4G bucket of several sizes of Bioballs

Also have a canister filter I have never used because it is missing a minor part and because the intake tube cover/screening thing falls off sometimes, would make me scared it would suck up a fish. It was used on a 40G planted and was said to be very adequate.

One Hydor Koralia powerhead.

Somewhere I have a UV filter thing but it may or may not work. It got left outside accidentally, and rained on a couple times. :/

Also have standard FW keeping stuff, like bulk filter material, etc.


For lights I have a 24" gold aluminum/metal Coralife fixture with a compact florescent pin type bulb, presently it has a FW bulb, but can buy the actinic or 50/50 type. 65W bulb

I have a 30" Aqueon light with 3 slots for LEDs presently 1 FW strip in there now. The Deep Blue Blue strip says it has about a 450nm color light. Not sure of the W or K rating. Aqueon Modular LED Aquarium Light Fixture, 30 inch.

Sooooooo..... I have tank, light, filter, stuff for inside like the rocks, can get some sand.

I like the Garnet sand which is a purple pink color, but is it bad to get a black sand or have the garnet sand color wise (have 1-2 inches worth already, could it be mixed with the crushed coral). I asked this question and got no firm response on using garnet sand and a possible "no" for dark sand, I know I could use pool filter, play or construction sand. As well as CaribSea sand from the store, or LS, but most people felt it wasn't worth the money???

I know I will need a way to measure the salinity, so refractometer or hydrometer?

Marine Salt

I have a 3 filter RO unit I used for a soda machine, I can find it in storage and hook it up sometime but initially I will probably use the machine at the grocery store when I can find out when they service and change the filters.

With this simple type set up, what kind of living things can go into it. I realize the size of the tank will dictate fish selection, so for the sake of getting something figured out lets just say it will be the 37G.

Will this work for a basic set up?

I wanted to get some good live rock, if the lighting would be able to sustain life.

For creatures, I was wanting some kind of Blenny, shrimp or couple varieties of shrimp, Hermit crabs (if they are alright), snail type critters and then just depending on tank size a few reasonably priced small fish after getting the tank cycled of course.

What kind of, softies or whatever the correct term for them will work in a tank like this. Also that aren't poisonous if they die or touch me or something else.

Sorry for the length But I need help and know some of you have time to share with a fellow AA fish nerd who wants to go try the salty side. Thank you in advance. I am trying not to really spend much money here, until I find there is just no going back or I just don't have the time or patience, lol!!! If I know I can do it and not go broke, and not have to get a 2nd job to finance it, then I will likely get a more intense set up.

 

[Autumnsky]

Well if I can't get this pinned down I just might have to listen to the lfs! Please don't let me be at their mercy.

 

[BigRedsReefs10]

Ok wow here I'll try and cover that. For filtration you'll want a skimmer for the larger 2 tanks (maybe get away with not having one on the 37) the 16 you can manage with wc's. You'll want a di cartridge in addition to your ro unit. A refractometer not hydrometer. For substrate I would ditch the crushed coral and use aggranaite reef sand (pretty sure I spelled that wrong), the black sand is fine but it's magnetic so if you use a magnetic glass cleaner to close you'll scratch the tank, not sure on the other sand you mentioned. People can give you lighting options if you give us a budget and tank dimensions. Your lighting will determine what corals and other photosynthetic creatures you can keep but in general softies are the easiest and least light demanding corals, but you can also look into corals euphillia family as they are very hardy and add some nice movement. Fish and invert selection is really up to you, check liveaquaria.com for pictures and general care/tank size of the livestock your interested in and come back here and people can help you determine wether it would work well in your system or not. And also be very wary if any advice a lfs gives you, there trying to make a sale and most will tell you what ever they have to to get one. There are lots of experienced members on here more than willing to answer your questions and not trying to make money off you, just maybe make them 1-2 at a time and make it easier on us . Hope this helps
Edit: knew I forgot something, get a reef grade salt if you want corals, it will have all the elements the corals need, don't let your lfs talk you into additives for these elements. They are not needed in most systems and do more harm than good

 

[Autumnsky]

Ok wow here I'll try and cover that. For filtration you'll want a skimmer for the larger 2 tanks (maybe get away with not having one on the 37) the 16 you can manage with wc's. You'll want a di cartridge in addition to your ro unit. A refractometer not hydrometer. For substrate I would ditch the crushed coral and use aggranaite reef sand (pretty sure I spelled that wrong), the black sand is fine but it's magnetic so if you use a magnetic glass cleaner to close you'll scratch the tank, not sure on the other sand you mentioned. People can give you lighting options if you give us a budget and tank dimensions. Your lighting will determine what corals and other photosynthetic creatures you can keep but in general softies are the easiest and least light demanding corals, but you can also look into corals euphillia family as they are very hardy and add some nice movement. Fish and invert selection is really up to you, check liveaquaria.com for pictures and general care/tank size of the livestock your interested in and come back here and people can help you determine wether it would work well in your system or not. And also be very wary if any advice a lfs gives you, there trying to make a sale and most will tell you what ever they have to to get one. There are lots of experienced members on here more than willing to answer your questions and not trying to make money off you, just maybe make them 1-2 at a time and make it easier on us . Hope this helps
Edit: knew I forgot something, get a reef grade salt if you want corals, it will have all the elements the corals need, don't let your lfs talk you into additives for these elements. They are not needed in most systems and do more harm than good

Thank you BigRed. Sorry I am trying to get my head around the SW thing and several people have said how it is as easy as FW, but a little different of course. So trying to see if there is enough for the basics with what I have. Planning to make an order for things I can't get reasonably at the lfs. In about a week and a half or two I want to start cycling a tank. Something came up and I probably can't get the 70G unless it is still available in a week or 2.

Likely starting with the 37G which is really 35G JEBO actually as the built in filter holds 2 gallons (originally received tank as "37G" til I talked to the JEBO guy and he explained it to me about the filter holding the other 2 gallons).

If I keep the tank lightly stocked for a little bit can I keep looking for a deal on a skimmer?

 

[BigRedsReefs10]

That's a good size to start with. And yeah if you keep a good weekly wc schedule you should be fine without a skimmer

 

[Autumnsky]

Starter Fish

So after looking through options for peaceful fish, there doesn't seem to be too many to pick from.

Clown fish (maybe)
PJ Cardinal 1-3 depending on further info on tank size needs for more than 1
Neon Goby
Royal Gramma

Mandarin Goby, & lots of different shrimp depending on their diet (after the tank is up awhile.)

Probably very slow to add fish due to budget and size of tank.

OMG I just saw the Sweet Lips Harlequin which was so cute in the lfs, gets to be 2.5 FEET long, and Engineer Goby (said not truely a goby) 1 foot. Research does really help.

 

[BigRedsReefs10]

There are lots more options than that, you have blennies, gobies, some wrasses would do great. Unfortunately the mandarin is a terrible choice for a 37g tank. They need around 100 lbs of LR to support them as thy are not like other fish in that they don't have a stomach so they must hunt all day. They are my favorite fish, but they are routinely sold to people whose system chant sustain them and they slowly starve to death, this and because I only run nanos means I've never owned my fish

 

[Autumnsky]

There are lots more options than that, you have blennies, gobies, some wrasses would do great. Unfortunately the mandarin is a terrible choice for a 37g tank. They need around 100 lbs of LR to support them as thy are not like other fish in that they don't have a stomach so they must hunt all day. They are my favorite fish, but they are routinely sold to people whose system chant sustain them and they slowly starve to death, this and because I only run nanos means I've never owned my fish

Thank goodness you told me about the Mandarin, I would hate to kill it.

Fish needs are most important. In FW I have always wanted to have a tank of Discus, and because in order to thrive they have several special requirements, I could not always be sure would be able to happen for them, so atm, I still don't have them. Same with Seahorses.

Ok on another aspect of SW, the stinging corals and palys which put out toxins. What about that, I understand gloves, but are there many other options for non toxic and non stinging?

 

[BigRedsReefs10]

The corals won't sting you, just other corals but as long as you give them some room or use your flow to control the direction of their tentacles it's not really too much if a problem. It's true many zoas and palys are poisonous but it's really only a problem when your fragging them, if you use gloves when working in your tank you have nothing to worry about IMO.

 

[Autumnsky]

The corals won't sting you, just other corals but as long as you give them some room or use your flow to control the direction of their tentacles it's not really too much if a problem. It's true many zoas and palys are poisonous but it's really only a problem when your fragging them, if you use gloves when working in your tank you have nothing to worry about IMO.

So when you cut up them up how do you keep them from making you or the stuff in your tank affected by the toxins? (not that I will likely need to worry about that for a very long time) If you buy a frag how long does it need to heal up before it is alright to have/put in the tank, or how does that work???

I am still a little concerned about have a poison thing in the tank, lol Does this also mean only wear gloves with live rock too?

Thank you for your help RED. I have been reading all kinds of things for beginners but not everything is addressed.

Are there any which don't sting or aren't toxic for a low to medium light tank.

What about macro Algae, do they all need high light to do well?

 

[BigRedsReefs10]

So when you cut up them up how do you keep them from making you or the stuff in your tank affected by the toxins? (not that I will likely need to worry about that for a very long time) If you buy a frag how long does it need to heal up before it is alright to have/put in the tank, or how does that work???



I am still a little concerned about have a poison thing in the tank, lol Does this also mean only wear gloves with live rock too?



Thank you for your help RED. I have been reading all kinds of things for beginners but not everything is addressed.



Are there any which don't sting or aren't toxic for a low to medium light tank.



What about macro Algae, do they all need high light to do well?

Generally if an establishment is selling the frag it's healed up and fine to add, sps can be the exception to this IME. A good drip acclimation and a dip and the new coral will be fine to add. IMHO your probably a little to worried about the zoa toxins as long as you use protective equipment when directly handling them it's fine. Gloves are up to you when working in the tank, some people won't work in there's without them, I never use them and have my hands in my tanks all the time, a good wash after and your fine. There are lots of peaceful corals, most softies (ricordea are by far my favorite softie, beautiful corals), Duncan's, trumpets, acan lords are some peaceful lps, and most sps are fine until they are literally growing on top of each other. Here's a picture of some rics and acans.

And here's another ric and a Duncan lps