Starting 10g nano... !

[Guest]

Hey everyone!
I'm relatively new on this site, although I have been browsing around here for a few months

I've been keeping fw tanks for quite some time, but now I think I'm ready to take the nanoreef plunge! heh
I am planning a 10g nano setup now, and I have a checklist made that I'd like some feedback on

-10g standard tank
-Aragonite sand- 2-3"
-Live rock, cured- ~10 lbs
-Hydrometer
-Heater 50w Tronic
-Two powerheads For [Hagen] Powerheads, would 2 AquaClear Power Head 2000's be good?
-Aquaclear HOB filter
-Aqualight 1-96W Power Compact (coralife 96w 50/50 4 tube quad lamp) *on legs
-Instant Ocean Salt
-Marine Buffer [if necessary]

Livestock:
1 or 2 Percula Clowns
A Cleaner Shrimp
5 Astrea Snails
...Additions?
Corals to be kept: Mushrooms, Polyps, Toadstools, Colts, Devils Hand, Xenia .....


A-OK to start buying equip and such?
Any prelim tips/suggestions/helpful thoughts?


Thanks everyone!

 

[steve-s]

A good starting point but a couple of suggestions.

The HOB is fine but I would not use any floss media in it. Just some carbon, chemi-pure or a polyfilter once in awhile to polish the water. The polyfilter would probabley be the better idea as it will not introduce PO4. If you increased the rock another 5 lbs or so, you will have all the biofiltration you need provided the tank is cycled properly.

If you can find them, I would suggest two Mini Jet 606's instead or the Hagens. Might be a bit more reliable.

The lighting may also cause you some heat issues with a 96w lamp. You would actually be just fine with a 65 w. Where you planning on one of the shorter power quad bulbs?

I would also steer clear of the of the IO salts with a smaller tank. They have been repeatedly reported to have above normaly high alk reading which in a smaller tank could easily spell disaster. I would instead suggest Kent or Tropic Marine.

The rest of what you propose sounds fine. I would suggest if you get the clowns, stick to the more peaceful smaller growing species and add both at the same time. If available, get them as small as possible as well.

Good Luck!!
Cheers
Steve

 

[Guest]

8) After much revision, how does this sound?

10g nano reef -Checklist!
-10g standard tank
-Aragonite sand, 2-3"
-Live rock -cured, 12-15 lbs.
-Two-piece Glass top
-Hydrometer
-50w Heater
-Two Mini Jet 606 powerheads
-Aquaclear HOB filter
-Polyfilter
-Coralife Aqualight- 1-96w Power Compact (96w 50/50 4-tube quad lamp)
-Light Timer
-Custom SeaLife MoonLite
-Kent Marine SeaSalt
-Marine Buffer (if necess)

1 Percula Clownfish
1 Six-line Wrasse
1 Cleaner Shrimp
6 Astrea Snails
3 Blue Leg Hermits

Corals:
Mushrooms, Polyps, Toadstools, Colt Corals, Devils Hand Leather, Xenia ...

 

[steve-s]

All good but again the 96w may cause you some heat issues. Be sure it does not rest on the tank rim. It will need to be elevated a few inches above the tank to allow for better air flow for cooling. A small clip fan may also be needed. The glass top is definately a no-no. It will trap too much CO2 and heat which in a small tank is very bad. I would instead suggest some eggcrate material that should be available from your local HD's lighting dept. Very sturdy stuff and the holes are small enough to prevent fish jumping but large enough to allow in most of the light and the heat out/CO2.

Also be aware that the six-line is an aggressive hunter and will decimate your pod polulation in a short time. Pods are very beneficial detrivours, especially for smaller tanks. I also think you will have aggression issues with the clown in such a small space.

Why the change of mind on the fish selection?

Don't forget the necessary tests as well. ph, NH3, NO2, NO3 and possibley alk.

Cheers
Steve

 

[Guest]

Thanks again for the reply

-I'll make sure to mount the lamp on legs above tank
-"Eggcrate material" (what exactly is that lol...some sort of plastic with holes?) instead of glass

Oh and the fish selection change
No real reason for the change, just wanted to see what the feedback was if I were to go with 1 Perc and the six-line.
I will probably just go with 2 percs
For curiosity sake, for some fish variety, what is another fish I could put in there along with 1 Perc Clown ?

Oh I forgot to put the marine test kit on the list 8) Still meant to get it, though!

 

[Guest]

?

 

[steve-s]

Sorry Anthoeny, busy day yesterday

Eggcrate is a plastic grate material used in office lighting with fluorescent tubes. Works amazingly well for the tops of tanks as it can be cut to just about any shape.

There are very few if any other fish I would suggest adding wth the clown for a 10 gal tank. The small space means there is a much higher chance of aggressiveness unless in the case of a mated pair. Personally I would not do it but other smaller species like sharknose or neon goby might work okay. Any midrange swimmer would be asking for trouble. Only a fish that stays 1-2" at adult size and is not really an active swimmer would work.

Cheers
Steve

 

[Guest]

Thanks again!

-So (1) Percula Clownfish and (1) Sharknose Goby Gobiosoma evelynae should do fine? How should I introduce them [after the cycle]...which one first?

-Hmm... just for my own reference, could you maybe find a site with a picture of eggcrate so I know exactly what I'm looking for? That would certainly help!

-With the intended clean-up crew: 1 Cleaner Shrimp and 6 Astrea Snails (i think im gonna stay away from hermits... to avoid the chance they'd chown down on the snails ?) Is that a sufficient cleanup crew? Additions?

-With the MoonLite(s) mentioned in my to-get list, http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produ...0&N=2004+113030 (the moonlight that screws into the lamp) would I leave the moonlite plugged in all the time and only have the Main lamp on a timer?

-And with (2) Mini Jet 606 Powerheads and an Aquaclear (MINI or 150) for flow, would that be too much [Any other Powerhead suggestions?]

 

[Guest]

Hm.

For some unknown reason, the site with the MoonLite on it does not wish to cooperate :?


So I'll attach a pic of the moonLite I'm referring to:

 

[Guest]

MoonLite:

 

[steve-s]

-So (1) Percula Clownfish and (1) Sharknose Goby Gobiosoma evelynae should do fine? How should I introduce them [after the cycle]...which one first?

The goby first. It always best to introduce the least aggressive first but you will also need to QT the fish. A simple 5-10 gal tank or rubbermaid bin will do. Read the >>quarantine<< article for more info. It is quite an important step.

-Hmm... just for my own reference, could you maybe find a site with a picture of eggcrate so I know exactly what I'm looking for? That would certainly help!

-With the intended clean-up crew: 1 Cleaner Shrimp and 6 Astrea Snails (i think im gonna stay away from hermits... to avoid the chance they'd chown down on the snails ?) Is that a sufficient cleanup crew? Additions?

Personally I would skip the astraeas and go with 1-2 nassarius, 1-2 cerith and 2-3 nerite or margarita snails. Much better mix and all will contribute to the health of the tank. The shrimp will also be a good addition.

-With the MoonLite(s) mentioned in my to-get list, http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produ...0&N=2004+113030 (the moonlight that screws into the lamp) would I leave the moonlite plugged in all the time and only have the Main lamp on a timer?

I would set all of them on a timer. Your link does not lead anywhere so I cannot view the item. If the lights have seperate ballasts, you can have the actinic come on in the morning and then an hour or so later the daylight. They can then be set to go off in the reverse order. Just before the actinics go off at night you can have the moonlights come on. They can be left running all night and shut off when the actinics come on in the AM or for whatever length you want.


-

And with (2) Mini Jet 606 Powerheads and an Aquaclear (MINI or 150) for flow, would that be too much [Any other Powerhead suggestions?]

Actually I think that would be just fine for a 10 gal tank. I have a 606 and a HOB for my 5 gal and it's plenty of flow.

Cheers
Steve

 

[Guest]

Wow... that was again more than helpful

Here's a pic of the Moonlite you couldn't access the site to:
Just screw the light onto the Lamp and plug it into a timer, correct?

I read the QT article, and its certainly informative. However, I don't think I can accomodate even another 10g tank (space) [yes, even though I can take it down] so could I just use a rubbermaid container as you suggested? The article describes quarantining with a 10g tank, so could you possibly describe the differences in using a rubbermaid?
Since I won't have a sump in the 10g nanoreef, how could I use the pump/sponge, to transfer it into the rubbermaid QT 'tank' ??
And BTW, the q-tank rubbermaid water is saltwater, mixed just like the water in my tank, right?
And if the water is salt, and the fish shall be in the rubbermaid QT tank for "3 weeks", do I need a powerhead in there along with a heater ?

It's a lot of questions, I know. (sorry!)


Hmm. I've read of many people who, instead of quaranting (i think), put their newly-bought Marine fish into a dechlorinated FW dip for 150 secs??? Yes? No?

And should I add something like Melafix when I finally introduce my new fish into the 'display tank'?
And while I'm asking that, should I use any other additives in the display tank at all? Perhaps for corals when I get them or anything?


Thanks again soo much!!!!

 

[steve-s]

Just screw the light onto the Lamp and plug it into a timer, correct?

Yup!! Incorporate it into the hood where it will be most effective. On a 10 gal depending on length you will most likely need one or two.

I read the QT article, and its certainly informative. However, I don't think I can accomodate even another 10g tank (space) [yes, even though I can take it down] so could I just use a rubbermaid container as you suggested? The article describes quarantining with a 10g tank, so could you possibly describe the differences in using a rubbermaid?

As long as the container is large enough, dose not leech toxins and holds water, it really makes no difference what you use as a QT. Rubbermaid totes are cheap and will do the job the same as a tank would. Should only cost about $10.00 at the hardware store.

Since I won't have a sump in the 10g nanoreef, how could I use the pump/sponge, to transfer it into the rubbermaid QT 'tank' ??

You can pick up an additional HOB or use the one you have now. Just use some media to allow the cultivation of bacteria. Filter floss, carbon or the like will do. Just be sure the QT is never treated with meds or the filter will need to remain for the QT only.

And BTW, the q-tank rubbermaid water is saltwater, mixed just like the water in my tank, right?
And if the water is salt, and the fish shall be in the rubbermaid QT tank for "3 weeks", do I need a powerhead in there along with a heater ?

Yes to all the above but I would go a full 4 weeks in a quarantine. Three is not always enough to be sure. The extra PH may not be needed for the short term but be sure to monitor the ph regularly and add a PH if the ph has trouble staying above 8.0

Hmm. I've read of many people who, instead of quaranting (i think), put their newly-bought Marine fish into a dechlorinated FW dip for 150 secs??? Yes? No?

Not a big fan of it myself and personally find it does not do much unless the fish is infested quite heavily. In most cases if the fish has a parasite problem and treatment is implemented soon after, the dip is not going to add any extra benefit. If you do decide on a dip, add some methylene blue as well. It will at least greatly reduce the stress to fish while helping with any bacterial issues, possible cyanide poisoning and such. Also be sure the FW dip is the same temp and ph as the QT it will be housed in.

And should I add something like Melafix when I finally introduce my new fish into the 'display tank'?

No need. If all goes well from the QT to the main tank the fish will not need anything chemically. Just be sure the fish are fed vitamin fortified foods and keep the water specs in line.

And while I'm asking that, should I use any other additives in the display tank at all? Perhaps for corals when I get them or anything?

The smaller the tank the less likely or advised this will be. I would just stick to weekly water changes for the time being. Once the tank matures and may be ready for stony corals some months down the road, you might need some alk/ca additives but that is some time off.

Cheers
Steve

 

[Guest]

How's this for a "Coles Notes" version for quarantining?

Quarantine Tank:
10g tank
50w Heater
Powerhead (if pH doesn't stay at 8.2 in Q-tank--monitor)
Eggcrate material lid
-Hold wanted fish at pet store
-Run a HOB Filter [with filter floss media] on the display tank for a week
-Fill q-tank with water from Display tank
-Add ornaments for fish to hide (Pipes)
-After a week, transfer HOB to Q-tank
Adding fish to q-tank:
-Acclimate normally, drip q-tank water into bag until 4x amount of original water
-Net fish into Q-tank
-Leave there for 3-4 wks.

Taking down Q-Tank:
-Add a cup of bleach, let it run for Half an hour
-Add de-chlorinator (AquaPlus good? And how much do I add?)
-Drain and let air-dry
-----
..What about feeding fish in Qtank? What foods should I feed them?
..Should I perform weekly water changes in Qtank?
..What do I do with the Q-tank's HOB filter when I take it down?

 

[Guest]

Oh along with the others, one more question about qtanks

After I bleach and take down the Q-Tank after using it for a SW fish, could I (maybe after rinsing it out with tap water a few times as well ?) use it as a q-tank for FW fish ??? I'm guessing the same procedure would apply except for the HOB filter ? (I would have to get another one to use for fw quarantining ?)

 

[steve-s]

How's this for a "Coles Notes" version for quarantining?

Excellent

Taking down Q-Tank:
-Add a cup of bleach, let it run for Half an hour
-Add de-chlorinator (AquaPlus good? And how much do I add?)
-Drain and let air-dry


After I bleach and take down the Q-Tank after using it for a SW fish, could I (maybe after rinsing it out with tap water a few times as well ?) use it as a q-tank for FW fish ??? I'm guessing the same procedure would apply except for the HOB filter ? (I would have to get another one to use for fw quarantining ?

When you clean out the quarantine, you can simpley empty and let air dry for a few days. You really only need to steralize if it will be needed right away. Once the QT has remained completely dried for a week, nothing will have survived. Remember, bacteria only needs a bit of moisture to survive but is also ph/temp dependant. It really does not take that much to kill it. Any parasites would be eradicted almost immediately as well.

If you do opt for the bleach, empty the QT and fill with fresh water. Add bleach @10FW:1Cl. Allow to sit for a few hours, empty and refill with FW and add a good dechlorinator to that. Allow a few more hours to pass, empty and allow to air dry for a few days in the sun if possible. Once steralized it can be used for another application. If you do use it as a FW QT, be sure there are no incompatible meds that could affect future fish such as copper or antibiotics.

As far as a dechlorinator, I personally use Seachems Prime as it does not contain aloe.

-----
..What about feeding fish in Qtank? What foods should I feed them?
..Should I perform weekly water changes in Qtank?

Feed them the same you would if they where in the main tank but much less. Feeding every other day sparingly is best and as I said be sure the foods are properly fortified. Once feeding is done, take a small airline tubing (attached to a rigid line if possible) and syphon out any uneaten foods and detritus. That will greatly cut down on water quality issues. Water changes may actually need to be done daily depending on how much bateria is colonized but if all the water specs check out, I would still do one twice a week to be sure DOC is kept down. If the fish gets a bacterial infection, any amount of organics in the water is just fuel for the fire. It's always good to have a least one water change sitting ready just in case.

..What do I do with the Q-tank's HOB filter when I take it down?

Depends on if any treatment where used but I would still be sure to air dry it a few days and toss any media used. No sense in taking any chances. If you use any meds, might be an idea to just reserve the HOB as a QT only filter to prevent mishaps down the road. If copper is used at any point then it should definately remain QT filter.

Cheers
Steve

 

[Guest]

When you say, "Add bleach @10FW:1Cl" ...What does that mean?? lol

And when you say to siphon the leftover food etc with airline tubing, what exactly do you mean? What do I have to do to siphon with airline tubing?


Hmm.
If I were to use the Qtank for a SW fish, then do the bleach cleaning method and leave it for a couple of weeks persay, could I just use it then as a FW Qtank?



......And does a QTank need lighting?!?

 

[steve-s]

When you say, "Add bleach @10FW:1Cl" ...What does that mean?? lol

For every 10 gal of water, add 1 gal of bleach . 10:1 means dilute 10 parts to 1.

And when you say to siphon the leftover food etc with airline tubing, what exactly do you mean? What do I have to do to siphon with airline tubing?

If you can find the rigid airline tubing and attach it to the flexible airtubing like the kind used for airstones, it will make syphoning things out of the tank much easier without removing alot of water volume. It is also much less intrusive to the fish and minimizes stress. If that doesn't ring a bell I can post a pic when I get home.. 8)

Hmm.
If I were to use the Qtank for a SW fish, then do the bleach cleaning method and leave it for a couple of weeks persay, could I just use it then as a FW Qtank?

Yes but as I said be careful with any meds that may not crossover well if they leech from the QT materials.

......And does a QTank need lighting?!?

Not needed at all really. Ambient room light is usually plenty and will also reduce stress without overhead light.

Cheers
Steve

 

[Guest]

The airline tubing siphoning isn't quite ringing a bell lol... Pic would def help!


How would I do water changes with the two SW tanks? (the q-tank and the display tank) ... ???

 

[steve-s]

The airline tubing siphoning isn't quite ringing a bell lol... Pic would def help!

I will post a pic in a few hours unless soemone beats me to it.

How would I do water changes with the two SW tanks? (the q-tank and the display tank) ... ???

Seperately. It's fine to use the main tanks water on the initial fill but do not use it for water changes. Mix enough for each tank seperately and be sure each has the temp, salinity, ph and alk matched as best as possible. If treating anything in the QT you will also need to match salinity more carefully if treating with hyposalinity or add copper to the change water if treating that way. I would make sure you label each pail (if using that) as QT only or main tank only. That way you will not get them confused and inadvertantly add a toxin to the display tank.

Cheers
Steve