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Old 06-18-2007, 08:57 AM   #11
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In the process of looking around I checked out the 'Filter Guys' web site....then saw them mentioned in other posts.

They sound reputable and knowledgeable.

Any comments?

CH
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Old 06-18-2007, 10:00 AM   #12
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airwaterice.com has a great product and has customer service is outstanding.
I have also head good things about the filter guys..
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Old 06-18-2007, 11:13 AM   #13
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I have an RO/DI system from www.thefilterguys.biz and love it. It is far superior to the Kent Maxima that I had first.
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Old 06-18-2007, 12:43 PM   #14
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Barebottom tanks are doable, but I feel it takes away from the natural look.
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Old 06-19-2007, 10:12 AM   #15
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Looked up airwaterice.com.

Looked @ their typhoon III. 150gpd. It seems everything that the unit needs to function comes with the package. Wrote them an email to explain our well water low pressure in house 30-35#s and would I need a booster pump. They replied later the the day, answering that I could get by without the booster, but would have much lower output per day.

I haven't contacted the filter guys yet.

I have however kind of set a goal of where I'd like to take this project. The Anemones and the clowns fascinate me. I'm just pondering if I want to go bare bottom, I'll have to get species that like rock not sand. Nothing here is locked in stone, but I'll admit, I'm hooked big time. omg.....RO/DI, skimmers, lights, ozone, UV, etc.

Oh well I could own a boat.

CH
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Old 06-30-2007, 08:11 AM   #16
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I've been reading various threads on SW related topics wherever I can find them. Some are better than others, but I have funneled down an ended mass of material to understand the basics to begin this project of starting a SW tank.

There are a couple things that I don't find much reading on, and will start with this one:

Display tanks, sumps, fuge, etc never seem to be covered, like a hood would do on tanks such as I have. It seems that the evaporation from these tanks would cause a build up of moisture in the house, tank room, etc. I would prefer to have glass panels or something to minimise this. Um...lighting issues probably enter here, as I understand the need for light to penetrate water depths for certain life. What do you do to control this evaporation? I don't want to run a dehumidifier in the main part of the house. Vermont winters here- wood fired heat = dry in winter, so a bit of evaporation is ok to control statis electricity.
Vermont summers - Heat and humidity ....sometimes we'll run dehumidifier in celler [finished with cement floor].

TIA for thoughts

CH
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Old 06-30-2007, 01:15 PM   #17
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Quote:
Display tanks, sumps, fuge, etc never seem to be covered, like a hood would do on tanks such as I have. It seems that the evaporation from these tanks would cause a build up of moisture in the house, tank room, etc. I would prefer to have glass panels or something to minimise this.
There are a few reasons for this, but the biggest and most important reason is that a covered tank traps CO2, which in turn drops your water pH. An open top allows for sufficient CO2 exchange and keeps pH regulated. Yes...evaporation is a neccesary evil and can be fixed with daily or few times a week top offs with freshwater. Moisture build up in a house is a good point, but opening some windows every once in a while or thus running a dehumidifier would help a lot. I have lots of tanks in my rooms, and try to keep windows open as much as I can, especially in the spring and fall.

Another issues in respect to canopies/hoods and lighting is heat build up. Depending on what lighting you go with, they put out LOTS of heat. An open top tank allows for temperature regulation as well, and doesn't cause as much heat build up in the canopy.

You may have a huge evaporation problem...but lots of people do. Take the time once a day and just dump a bucket of freshwater in and you'll be fine. Some tanks evaporate little to none, some evaporate 5 gallons a day. Comes along with the hobby.

Some people run auto top off systems, but a lot of people have accidents where the auto top off fails and floods their room/homes, etc. So it's sorta a trade off if you want to take that risk with an auto top off system or just fill manually more often.

HTH some
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Old 07-01-2007, 09:09 AM   #18
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D, If you have a given SG in your system and you loose 'x' amount of evaporated water, do you replace it with fresh or salt water? And the auto top off runs from your house supply [via RO/DI] or from a sw reserve? Seems logical that SG would increase on balance of water in system.......

Along the thinking of the CO2 build up, and how we deal with O2/CO2 in fresh water planted tanks.......I've not heard of a fuge with ocean plants [kelp] or other plant life that would aid in this cycle. What is animal and what is plant in the average listing in home sw aquariums?

CH
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Old 07-01-2007, 12:09 PM   #19
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D, If you have a given SG in your system and you loose 'x' amount of evaporated water, do you replace it with fresh or salt water?
All top-offs should be done with FW. Salt does not evaporate along with the water. This is why it is so important to top off on a regular basis. Going topless is very good for your tank but will require more frequent top-offs.
Quote:
Along the thinking of the CO2 build up, and how we deal with O2/CO2 in fresh water planted tanks.......I've not heard of a fuge with ocean plants [kelp] or other plant life that would aid in this cycle. What is animal and what is plant in the average listing in home sw aquariums?
Again, gong topless and pointing a powerhead toward the surface to create some surface "ripple" will aid in gas exchange. A fuge is really more beneficial in adding biological filtration and aiding in nutrient export, but also do play a part in shedding CO2. They generally have an efficent substrate (LS or mud), maybe some LR and some macroalgae (caulerpa, ochtodes or botryocadia) or plants like mangroves.
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Old 07-02-2007, 03:22 PM   #20
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Can't say it better than that.
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