Starting from the Beginning.

The friendliest place on the web for anyone with an interest in aquariums or fish keeping!
If you have answers, please help by responding to the unanswered posts.
See posts with no answers
Alright, I made the leap during my lunch break today and bought a tank, stand, and overflow for $550.

Now that the die is cast I can stop worrying about the finances so much, I am actually excited. Three weeks before all that gets here, and much more to buy in the mean time!
 
The sump is fed by gravity from the tank overflow (either a drilled bottom, back or a hang on overflow box). The amount of water flowing from the tank to the sump is determined by the size of the hole and pipe. The protein skimmer is fed by a pump (usually a submersible in the sump, but it doesn't have to be). The outflow from the PS is usually a large open section of pvc for an in-sump PS, or another piece of pvc from the PS back to the sump. A refugium can be a seperate container or just a section of the sump where you add macro algae. The return pump is in the last section of the sup (usually, but some have it in the middle). The return pump must be sized to the flow rate of the overflow. If you have a 1" overflow then it is capable of feeding 600 gph to your sump. You want a return pump that will produce 600 gph or LESS at the head height of the return pipe outflow.

I know, clear as mud....
 
So the tank and stand are at the LFS, now I just have to find a way to get it here! Two weeks early too, I haven't even purchased the rest of the gear yet!
 
Take your time on getting everything. You already have the big parts(tank/stank). Just keep doing more reading and asking specific questions about different parts and you will save $$$ and have better stuff(the stuff you really want, just dont know it yet because of the learning curve)
 
At the very least I have to wait another pay day to get anything else major (I am paying for this out of my "fun" money, no touching the savings for a hobby!), which is why I didn't mind waiting for my tank.

Now I will be staring at it all excited, with nothing to do with it :(
 
Alright, I finally got the stand and aquarium to my house! It looks a lot bigger sitting there than when I measured everything out, but I am happy with it. It is very deep (width 18") tank, I should be able to creat some great aquascaping.
 
Question...

For the a 65g tank, how much glow from the in tank powerheads do I want current wise. My LFS recommeneded to Koralia Centrrfugal Pumps for the tank itself, each with 850gph. I know the rule of thumb for cirgulation through the sump/refugium is 10-15 times the tank size, but what about just in tank currents?
 
Around 20 times turnover is a great start but ad stock is added and tank matures adding more would help. Its not heard of to have as much as 40 or more turnover rate. You want to get it from 2 or more powerheads.
Your 65 times 20 turnover equals 1300 gph from 2 atleast 650 gph. But this alone isnt enough. Its there placement , you want them pushing flow from the bottom up to reduce uneatin food and fish waste. Then you want loose rockwork for flow to get around reduce any low flow or no flow areas.
Good flow means better O2 levels and PH levels amoung other things.


Patroklos said:
Question...

For the a 65g tank, how much glow from the in tank powerheads do I want current wise. My LFS recommeneded to Koralia Centrrfugal Pumps for the tank itself, each with 850gph. I know the rule of thumb for cirgulation through the sump/refugium is 10-15 times the tank size, but what about just in tank currents?
Click to expand...
 
Thanks for the reply lance. I just ordered two Koralia 3 powerheads at 850gph each and will have a Mag 5 return pump pushing 500gph for a total 2200gph flow, or 34x the tank size. I think that will work nicely!

I did fing one discrepency though. My LFS recomemded to me Mag Drive 9.5 which pushes 950gph. Now, I only have a 1" overflow so that seems ecessive, is there a reason he recomended this and did I under estimate my return pump requirements?

Now onto my next question (there is always a next question ;)). This is the RO/DI I am looking at, what do you all think?

AQUAFx Mako RO/DI System

* High efficiency 1-micron sediment pre-filter
* 2-micron chlorine guzzler carbon block pre-filter or our exclusive chlorine and chloramine-removal filters
* High flow / high rejection TFC membrane
* High-efficiency color-changing DI cartridge
* 160 PSI pressure gauge marked with operating and unsafe ranges
* In-Line TDS meter
* Solid Aluminum "no-rust" metal mounting bracket
* Clear 10" filter cartridge housings.
* All systems include quick connect fittings, a shut off valve, a filter wrench for easy cartridge replacement * your choice of a feed adaptor.
* INCLUDES AUTO SHUT-OFF VALVE

AQUAFx Mako RO/DI System* - AquaCave

I am looking online now to see if I can find this model used (assuming nobody here suggests a better one). This is actually a double buy for me as I live in Charleston, SC and we are very hurricane prone (though we have been lucky for awhile) and this will reside in my hurricane locker when not being used for the aquarium.
 
Last edited:
What kind of fitting do I need to operate it from my kitchen sink? It gives me the option of in-line sink, faucet, hose bib or self piercing. I'd imagine it would be faucet, but I want no suprises!
 
That's a good questions. Mine is the self piercing, which is attached directly to the inbound cold water line. You may want to call the seller and find out the differences.
 
Patroklos said:
What kind of fitting do I need to operate it from my kitchen sink? It gives me the option of in-line sink, faucet, hose bib or self piercing. I'd imagine it would be faucet, but I want no suprises!
Click to expand...

Don't forget... these things operate on a gallon per DAY basis. They process water at a very sloooooooow rate. Hooking it up at the faucet would imply your faucet would be tied up all during that time.

Personally, I'd steer towards the hose bib and then just install a T in your cold water line somewhere with a shut off. That way you can leave it hooked up and not disturb your faucet use.
 
The facet use wouldn't be too big a deal, I would rather deal with that then reworking my plumbing! I could always put a Y fitting on my faucet I suppose.
 
I connect mine to the kitchen faucet and yes when I make up 45 gallons for the top tank and 20-25 gallons for a pwc it runs for more than 24 hours.

The Mag9.5 drops to 850gph at 3' head height and 800 gph at 4' HH and 750 @ 5'.
 
The Mag9.5 drops to 850gph at 3' head height and 800 gph at 4' HH and 750 @ 5'.
Click to expand...

Ah, then I may have lowballed my need then. The Mag 5 is only 500gph, and it will have to pump water at least four feet. I might have to return it when it comes in and upgrade :(

I just ordered:

RO/DI unit
Refractometer
Tank Thermometer (digital)
Tank Heater

I am getting there, though I priced out LR at my LFS today and it was not good. $7.00 a pount, and I guess I need 130ish pounds!
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

M
The Unexpected Breeder
Replies
13
Views
695
Andy Sager
Andy Sager
Cecil Mayberry
New to the group
Replies
3
Views
430
JagdTiger
J
J
Greetings from Sedona
Replies
2
Views
411
Andy Sager
Andy Sager
K
New to the forum :)
Replies
4
Views
330
Autumnsky
Autumnsky
P
29G stocking/pairing
Replies
5
Views
508
Aiken Drum
Aiken Drum

Latest posts

Back
Top Bottom