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Old 04-02-2010, 06:41 PM   #1
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Sump?

I have a roughly 35G tank that is cycled with a couple fish in it, I fit a 10G tank in the stand (it was so close, but I had to take off the cheap plastic trim to make my clearance.) I know 10G isn't a lot, but I figure it is better than not having one? I've never done a sump before, and I tried to use the search to find some good links on how-to best set it up, and to make sure I don't drain the tank during a power outage, that sort of thing. Any tips would be great, and advise it its even worth doing a 10G sump. Let me know, thanks!
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Old 04-02-2010, 08:03 PM   #2
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I used a 10g for a sump for many, many years. It's nice to stick your heater, skimmer and/or filter media down there out of sight. You need a HOB overflow. I see your from PA. Check out an Eshopps overflow from That Fish Place. That will get the water from the tank to the sump. Then you need a pump to get it back into the tank. A Mag 350 would work fine.

Instead of trying to explain how you can setup the sump. I'll post a pic of mine. Even tho it's a 55g tank, it's the same basic setup you can use on a 10g. Water from the tank enters on far right. I keep my skimmer in that compartment. Next are baffles. They will make sure the water level in the right side always stays the same (skimmers need a constant water level) and keeps any microbubbles from making their way to the return pump. I have macro algae and a small section for frags and then the section on the far left for the return pump.



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Old 04-02-2010, 08:11 PM   #3
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You couldn't ask for a better answer than Capt gave.

Check out www.melevsreef.com. There's some good design ideas on the site.
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Old 04-03-2010, 05:12 PM   #4
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Thank you for the info! About the overflow box I'm a little confused. It says the following is included:
Siphon tube
Cylinder sponge
Nylon screw and wing nuts
Pre-filter box
Bulkhead
http://www.eshopps.com/Siphon/Self-StartSiphon.pdf
The above link is the design. Does that box only include Box A and not Box B and U-Tube?
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Old 04-03-2010, 06:21 PM   #5
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ccCapt, Two questions: is the left partition a plastic grid? If so why a grid versus a solid wall (excuse my ignorance) also is there a special sealant I use or just silicon to stick the plexi-glass to the glass? I don't know the best way to set it up like I want it. I want to put there heater in there, but its 14" and the tank is only 20" long so I was thinking of only putting 6" x 6" areas for the intake and return. I want a place for macro-algae and a place to put some rubble maybe. I do weekly changes and its only a 40G so I don't think I'll put a skimmer in there. I like the deign HN1 posted, how far from the top should the plexi be?
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Old 04-03-2010, 09:07 PM   #6
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video on it

part 1
YouTube - Reef Tank D.I.Y. Sump part 1
part 2
YouTube - Reef Tank D.I.Y. Sump part 2

some more sump info if interested
Overflow for Wet/Dry
very good one here on sump info..3 part article
Everything You Always Wanted to Know About Sumps, Part II by Greg Taylor - Reefkeeping.com
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Old 04-04-2010, 02:55 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nxb161 View Post
ccCapt, Two questions: is the left partition a plastic grid? If so why a grid versus a solid wall (excuse my ignorance) also is there a special sealant I use or just silicon to stick the plexi-glass to the glass? I don't know the best way to set it up like I want it. I want to put there heater in there, but its 14" and the tank is only 20" long so I was thinking of only putting 6" x 6" areas for the intake and return. I want a place for macro-algae and a place to put some rubble maybe. I do weekly changes and its only a 40G so I don't think I'll put a skimmer in there. I like the deign HN1 posted, how far from the top should the plexi be?
The reason fo rthe eggrate is to keep the macro algae from being suckig into the return pump.
Silicone works great for the baffles. Just gob it in there, it doesn't need to be pretty.
You need a shorter heater or a larger sump. Sometime you just can't get it all in there.
The sump must be able to hold the drainage from the tank when the pump is turned off. The middle baffle can to to the top if you like but is usually an inch or more below. It's the 3rd one where the water level will vary; evaporation is noticed in this section; overflow water will fill the sump when then pump is off.
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Old 04-04-2010, 03:04 PM   #8
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This thread is great. Some excellent questions were asked and answered here. I had some of the same questions since i'm building my own sump right now and i know exactly what i want to do now. Thanks to everyone in this thread! Great videos too!
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Old 04-05-2010, 10:46 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nxb161 View Post
Thank you for the info! About the overflow box I'm a little confused. It says the following is included:
Siphon tube
Cylinder sponge
Nylon screw and wing nuts
Pre-filter box
Bulkhead
http://www.eshopps.com/Siphon/Self-StartSiphon.pdf
The above link is the design. Does that box only include Box A and not Box B and U-Tube?
It includes everything you see. Both boxes and the u-tube siphon.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nxb161 View Post
ccCapt, Two questions: is the left partition a plastic grid? If so why a grid versus a solid wall (excuse my ignorance) also is there a special sealant I use or just silicon to stick the plexi-glass to the glass? I don't know the best way to set it up like I want it. I want to put there heater in there, but its 14" and the tank is only 20" long so I was thinking of only putting 6" x 6" areas for the intake and return. I want a place for macro-algae and a place to put some rubble maybe. I do weekly changes and its only a 40G so I don't think I'll put a skimmer in there. I like the deign HN1 posted, how far from the top should the plexi be?
Cmor got it. The eggcrate just helps make sure no macro algae makes it's way to the pump and gets it clogged.

You can go to HD or Lowes and get GE Silicone 1 for Doors & Windows. Make sure it has NO "mildew resistant" chemicals in it. Silicone II for Tubs & Baths is mildew resistant and you don't want to use that.

You can lay the heater sideways inside the baffles if you have a submersible heater.

The only thing I don't like about the design HN1 posted is you have alot smaller of an area where the water level will drop from evaporation. The baffles will keep the right side the same depth, but the left side will drop.
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