Sump help

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Aquarium Advice Freak
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Feb 7, 2013
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Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
I'm looking for advice on the products I'm ordering. If they are appropriate or not.

I'm setting up a 55 gallon display with a 20 gallon sump ( both tanks are from petcos $1/gallon sale). I would like to order from glass-holes.com. I was told to get the 700 GPH over flow and for a return pump, a Danner Mag-Drive 9.5. I'm also ordering a reef octopus 6" (150 gallon). I'm a little confused on the return kit, I'm thinking the correct one is a 3/4" loc-line return?

The other things I'm not really familiar with is: how to create the compartments in the sump... Do I just buy glass or acrylic from a store and silicone them in?

Am I missing anything else in setting up this system?

Thank you so much for any help!
 
How many returns are you having? They hav3 a return kit that comes with everything from glass holes. Make sure you get the holesaws with the kits. The baffles you can get cut to fit id say at least 1/4 in glass. There are many diy videos on youtube. Your heaters you are missing. You could also add a filter sock bracket from bulk reef supply and order about 3 or more socks. The reason is bc they need to be switched out every 3 days and cleaned. I wash mine in the sink when I change them, throw them in a bucket when they are all dirty I put them in the washer (no detergent) just rinse. I have videos on youtube drilling my return and overflow box. Also making my sump. One idea that I did was silicon the heaters suction cups to the glass and snap the heater into plase after they dry this way it doesnt fall. Type in youtube edwardclaxton89 and you should be able to find one of my videos click on my name and it should show all my uploads I only have few. But I hope this helps. Also build your sump around your skimmer it will be better and easier for you.
 
How many returns are you having? They hav3 a return kit that comes with everything from glass holes. Make sure you get the holesaws with the kits. The baffles you can get cut to fit id say at least 1/4 in glass. There are many diy videos on youtube. Your heaters you are missing. You could also add a filter sock bracket from bulk reef supply and order about 3 or more socks. The reason is bc they need to be switched out every 3 days and cleaned. I wash mine in the sink when I change them, throw them in a bucket when they are all dirty I put them in the washer (no detergent) just rinse. I have videos on youtube drilling my return and overflow box. Also making my sump. One idea that I did was silicon the heaters suction cups to the glass and snap the heater into plase after they dry this way it doesnt fall. Type in youtube edwardclaxton89 and you should be able to find one of my videos click on my name and it should show all my uploads I only have few. But I hope this helps. Also build your sump around your skimmer it will be better and easier for you.

Thanks a lot man! I do have heaters, I have a 250 watt and a 100 watt but I think the 250 will be enough. I planned on only one return. I'm nervous about drilling tanks and more holes= more risk of cracking. Is there benefit of 2 returns? I have plenty of power heads for movement. Ill check your videos out right now!
 
I was nervous also, I believe "slow and steady wins the race" when it comes to drilling holes in glass. Im really not 100% sure if you only need one input line I would contact glass holes and ask them if it you work for you just to make sure. You may be able to google it im sure someone else out there has posted this question and gotten a reliable answer. If you email glass holes tell them the height at which the hole will be and what pump you will be using maybe even the gph bc they may not know right off hand. I had an easier time drilling with a water hose running across the glass instead of making a mound with putty. A couple things to note: put somthing in your tank so when you cut the glass out it doesnt fall on ur glass possibly cracking your tank. Also, my friend did this when we were practicing drilling he pull the drill up and the chuck lossened and the bit fell out and hit the glass and cracked it. So hold you bit when u pull the drill away. The good thing is, is that tank that got cracked wasnt going to be used. We just tested our skills out before we drilled my 125 his 120 and 150. Bulk reef supply makes a drill press holder maybe if you dont have a steady hand. But the cardboard holes seemed to work fine. You will need to place the drill at a 45 degree angle and slowly flated the bit against the glass. Slow enough so that you get a decent grove for your bit and drill to follow. Do not push on the drill let the weight of the drill and its torque do the work.
 
Before you buy a return pump I want to let you know something some will agree and some will not. It comes down what you think is best for your tank. Im not sure what the gph on a mag 9.5 is but let me give you some information before you make a decision. What i have read, researched and live by, lol. At first I figured my turn over rate from my dt (display tank) to my sump needed to be as many gph as I could afford. But that entirely true unless you are running a wet/dry filter. You really only want your dt to cycle through your sump 3 to 5 times over. The reason why is contact time for your skimmer and other equipment. This gives them time to do what they need to do. I understand when you wany your water to rush all the junk out of your dt into the sump but if its rushing water through so fast is your skimmer having time to pull ot out? Prolly not. So if you slow the turn over rate from your dt to sump to around 5X's your tank volume your skimmer will have time to do its job with more efficiency. Now to make sure you understand the turn over in the dt is different from the turn over from your dt to your sump. This can be confusing at first. Dt only turn over rate fowlr (fish only with live rock) 15-20x water volume, softies 20-25x, lps 25-30x and sps 30+ water volume. This is where your powerheads are used for. I have recently added the knock off jebao wp40's to make tank and love them you will only need one and for 100 bucks is a great price for what it can do and when compared to the mp40's for 450 bucks.
To make sure you know:
Dt to sump=55 x 6= 330 gph maybe a little more for elbows check or ball valves so up to 500gph should work for 4ft head.
Dt only=55 x 20= 1100 gph to 1650 will give you a decent water movement I think.

When finding a powerhead find one with a magnet it will save you a headache and keep in mind the jebao wp 25 or wp40 is around a 100 bucks and other powerheads are close to the same price and do alot less. They are worth it. But it mainly comes to what your prefer. You also may want to invest into a rodi unit if you dont have one. Bulk reef supply is a great buy. My friend has an ebay deal which saved him 100 bucks he hates it.
 
Mag 7 would work great. 9.5 will use more energy and will have to be turned down on return. I have a 75 with 20 gal sump great flow and no restricting return with mag 7
 
The theory of contact time is incorrect. Think of the entire water volume as one thing. Imagine removing 1 million particles from a single gallon of that water, or 1 million from the entire volume- It's the same thing. The skimmer must be fed with at least the same amount of water as the skimmer's pump pulls. in other words, a 500gph pump, will need at least 500 gph returning to it in order for it to be at max efficiency.
Of course we have air draw and head loss to consider, but you get the general idea.

I would come over the top with the return and not drill another hole in the back glass for it.
 
I would also cal a local glass shop and have them cut you 3 or 4 pieces of glass for partitions instead of using cheap home depot plexi.
 
Thanks everyone for your input! Some follow up questions:

If I'm understanding this correctly, the Danner mag 7 has 700GPH and I need at least 500GPH to maximize efficacy of the reef octopus 150 so that should be good right?

Also why do you recommend a return pump that hangs over the top rather than cutting a hole in the glass for the return?
 
Thanks everyone for your input! Some follow up questions:

If I'm understanding this correctly, the Danner mag 7 has 700GPH and I need at least 500GPH to maximize efficacy of the reef octopus 150 so that should be good right?

Also why do you recommend a return pump that hangs over the top rather than cutting a hole in the glass for the return?
Why drill an extra hole in the tank when you don't have to? Every hole you drill is a potential leak point. Plus, when the power goes out, the return line will back siphon until it sucks air. If you have it 4" below the surface, 4" of water will drain into the sump. People rely on check valves for this, but I would not trust them in a salt water application. Too many things grow in dark places in these tanks. I would keep is as close to the surface as possible.

As far as the mag7 question, you would have to consider head loss as well. How far will this be pushing water up and how many turns will the water have to make before it is expelled?
 
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