Sump problems please help

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Not understanding the problem... Maybe a little more clarification.
 
Not understanding the problem... Maybe a little more clarification.

Okay we'll I have a DIY overflow connected to 1/2in nylon tubing that runs to a ball valve an the filter socks I just need to slow down my intake my a little bit so the water levels in my sump will stay at a consistent level I've considered PVC gate valve but I'm having no luck finding them where I'm at all they have are brass ones.
 
Okay we'll I have a DIY overflow connected to 1/2in nylon tubing that runs to a ball valve an the filter socks I just need to slow down my intake my a little bit so the water levels in my sump will stay at a consistent level I've considered PVC gate valve but I'm having no luck finding them where I'm at all they have are brass ones.

Regan,.. Not knowing too much about your tank,...here goes,.. First ,...you are going to want the water coming from your tank into the sump to be unobstructed,..NO VALVES !!!!! ..also , basically the more flow ( within limits) the better ,... I think you said its only a 1/2" tube??? Seems awfully small ,.... I think your problem may lie on your return pump ,.. Get a pump a little larger than you deem necessary and use your ball valve on this pump to throttle it up or down to maintain your water level....and yes PVC only!!! So....1. No valve on the over flow line,.. 2. Use a PVC only ball valve on your return pump to tweak the flow back into the tank to maintain a constant level
 
That's could of been some great information someone could of told me earlier haha so I have a 30 gal tank with 10 gal sump what kind of return pump would you recommend?
 
That's could of been some great information someone could of told me earlier haha so I have a 30 gal tank with 10 gal sump what kind of return pump would you recommend?

I like the danner mag drive pumps ,..quite, reliable and affordable,...if I were you I'd call up marine depot or another reliable lfs and let them know what you have going and they'll steer you to the right pump,.. I'm guessing something like a mag 2 or 3 with a ball valve but I'm sure they'll be better equipped to recommend one ,...also I'd have them set you up with a anti syphon ( anti back flow) valve also ,..it will be installed just above the ball valve ,...this will prevent water from flowing back into your sump ( from your main tank ) during a power failure,....I would imagine that the whole assembly ,pump ,ball valve and anti syphon valve wouldn't cost more than around $60
 
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I tried using a ball valve on the return line and my pump was over heating. Guess I could have gone and bought a different pump with less power but its a two hour drive so instead I made a bigger overflow with a ball valve in it and I only have to close the valve a tiny bit and the over flow and return pump are almost perfect. But I still couldn't match them perfect so I made my pump slightly faster then my overflow and rigged up a float on the pump so when the last chamber gets low the pump shuts off for a few seconds and the chamber refills. My pump only shuts off for a few seconds every 20 minutes or so. It's a new DIY setup that's been running for three days and so far so good.
 

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Okay so I put straight nylon tuning with a ball valve completely open for my intake and My return just has a ball valve with will be changed to a PVC gate valve and ill put a check valve up towards the top now the pump I have is pretty powerful and I'd say it restrict's quite a bit could that mess up the pump or cause more trouble down the line?
 
Yea if I can't get mine perfectly ill have to try your idea with the float thing!
 
Okay so I put straight nylon tuning with a ball valve completely open for my intake and My return just has a ball valve with will be changed to a PVC gate valve and ill put a check valve up towards the top now the pump I have is pretty powerful and I'd say it restrict's quite a bit could that mess up the pump or cause more trouble down the line?

You don't need a gate valve,..the PVC ball valve will work as good and will be easier to adjust,...glad your pump will work,...using this setup it'll be much easier for you to adjust the return flow via that ball valve and equal out that sump level...... Throttling down the flow a little wont hurt a thing pump wise..( as long as the pump isn't too big for your application) .I bet 99% of sump users have a pump throttled down ...okay on your return .... You should have a pump ,.a PVC ball valve that comes out of it and either tubing or PVC attached to the valve going back up to the tank.
So basically let's say your tank drains into the sump at 200 gallons an hour ,..... Your return motor returns water back to the tank at say 300 gallons per hour,...so by using the ball valve that is attached to the motors outflow outlet ,you can then throttled the ball valve down to where both the intake and outflow are equal,...it may take a little trial and error but you'll get there soon enough.
 
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I tried using a ball valve on the return line and my pump was over heating. Guess I could have gone and bought a different pump with less power but its a two hour drive so instead I made a bigger overflow with a ball valve in it and I only have to close the valve a tiny bit and the over flow and return pump are almost perfect. But I still couldn't match them perfect so I made my pump slightly faster then my overflow and rigged up a float on the pump so when the last chamber gets low the pump shuts off for a few seconds and the chamber refills. My pump only shuts off for a few seconds every 20 minutes or so. It's a new DIY setup that's been running for three days and so far so good.
That sounds like a disaster waiting to happen!

BTW, how do you know the pump was overheating? Choking a pump back is good for it and it will actually use less electricity. I don't see how it would run hot this way.
 
That sounds like a disaster waiting to happen!

BTW, how do you know the pump was overheating? Choking a pump back is good for it and it will actually use less electricity. I don't see how it would run hot this way.

Doug, I was hoping you were lurking about and were going to comment on that !
 
Thank you dary I appreciate you taking the time to explain this to me it made things alot more clear thanks!
 
Thank you dary I appreciate you taking the time to explain this to me it made things alot more clear thanks!

You're welcome Regan,.... It's a real easy concept just a little tough to explain ,..once dialed in you'll prob never have to touch those settings again.
 
Alright so I'm having a pretty hard struggle getting it exactly to the spot where I need it I've been trying for an hour now any suggestions?
 
I let it run for an hour and when I took the rubber line off the nipple on the pump it was warped and deformed.
 
Are you using a home made overflow?

I had the same issue I messed with it for hours and the sump would either head towards overflowing or my pump would gurgle air because the last chamber was always empty. I was stumped but for now the float works until I can get three hours away to a pet shop and buy a new overflow and return pump that's faster.

Just curious why the float idea is a disaster waiting to happen? Just because if the float fails my sump will either run none stop or shut off?
 
Yea is the DIY overflow the only reason why in having such a struggle and I know our feeling my reef lfs is so far away thanks to living in Alaska
 
The fitting in the picture screws into the top of the pump and my hose going back to my main tank hooks to it. When I took the hose off the fitting it was warped and wasn't a perfect circle anymore. Heat was the only thing I could come up with.
 

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